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Help filling gaps?

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  • Guest
    #1

    Help filling gaps?

    I need help with filling gaps, as stated in the title . I did some searching on the forums and didn't really find anything relevant to me. I use Testors filler putty. I have never really been happy with the results but don't know if its the putty or me. Also, once applied and let dry, i use an exacto knife to scrape some of the putty off, and then sand it down with a file set or just sandpaper. My main problems are with wing roots and fuselage join lines. If anyone has any suggestions it would be greatly appreciated.

    Brian
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    • Guest
      #2
      Brian, Have a look at this website. Cheers Derek

      AeroScale :: Reading the Seams

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        • Guest
          #3
          Not a aircraft builder but a model is a model , for fine and small gaps tipex works a treat .. drys quickly and if needed you can build it up and its easy to rub down , its not a modelling filler but it works and a lot of us from across the pond use this method ,

          Richy

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            • Guest
              #4
              Brian I use Mr Surfacer 500 for fuselage joints. You use a paint brush to apply & apply in coats until you have filled the joint. Seems to have a similar hardness to the plastic & sands to a good surface & does not break away at the edges. If you find there are a few bits still left just coat those. I have been using recently tape on either side of the joint to diminish the area that the filler is applied to preserve as much as possible the panel lines. Mr Surfacer also takes easily without crumbling a scribe to replace lost panel lines & rivet indentations.

              For wing roots I have a variety of sizes of plastic sheets from which I cut filler strips as neat & tight as possible to the joint. Use Mr Cement S on most glueing jobs but found for this work of filling that Tamiya extra thin is the best as it goes off a little less rapidly & applied liberally fills a little more of the joint by melting the plastics together. Then use Mr Surfacer to finish the job.

              After getting the filler to reasonable in shape I then resort to using 600 then 1200 wet & dry which gives a superb finish & if well done you will not see a trace of the joint. Takes time & patience though which I have found is what model making is about.

              Laurie

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                • Guest
                  #5
                  Thank you all for the replys, i will try these out and see which works best for me. I am going to order some mr surfacer soon.

                  Brian

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