Subaru 98 Monte Carlo - beginners recovery attempt.

[Guest]

Tonight I filed back some paint and added the lower aux lights to allow me to fill and blend in the lines. Not100% accurate as there should be lines but I won't be removing them for the cover plates. I also primed a couple more parts and I feel my airbrushing is beginning to come on a little. I can clean the brush quickly and can paint a bit better.


Hopefully in the next week I can start to make this model look like it's progressing


Also tried out my dehydrator and it seems to be excellent. Milliput goes off a bit quicker and the paint starts to dry so much quicker. Will see how it degasses in time.


Also more terrible phone pictures at the moment. Sorry.


[GALLERY=media, 96]IMAG0610_BURST002 by dougie posted Feb 18, 2015 at 11:19 PM[/GALLERY]


[GALLERY=media, 95]IMAG0611 by dougie posted Feb 18, 2015 at 11:19 PM[/GALLERY]


[GALLERY=media, 98]IMAG0608 by dougie posted Feb 18, 2015 at 11:19 PM[/GALLERY]


[GALLERY=media, 97]IMAG0606 by dougie posted Feb 18, 2015 at 11:19 PM[/GALLERY]

[flyjoe180]

First time I've seen a dehydrator used for this, nice one.

[Guest]

Seen That a lot of people on other forms are using them when I did a search on the mental curing time of Tamiya rattle cans and using their clear lacquer on top. If you don't put the lacquer on when the main paint is pretty much wet you have to wait nearly a month or you get micro cracking due to different contraction rates and degassing issues. Using one of These it takes like a couple of days if that. £30 on flea bay. Worth a punt And it works the same on other types of paint, seems like a few hours in here and it's like 24 normal hours.


I'm Still experimenting so nobody take this as gospel haha

[Guest]

Looking good so far

[Marc Stock]

What a good idea. Mine was still tacky feeling after 2 weeks.

[takeslousyphotos]

This looking pretty good ........


Peter

[Guest]

I

What a good idea. Mine was still tacky feeling after 2 weeks.

I'll post an update after the mica blue goes on as to how using the dehydrator goes with that and the humbrol clear I'm thinking about putting on top.

[Marc Stock]

Be careful with humbrol clear. I didn't get good results with it at all. It cracked up like a spider.

[Guest]

Be careful with humbrol clear. I didn't get good results with it at all. It cracked up like a spider.

what paint did you apply it over, what ratios did you use and what were the drying times you used etc...


I would like to know so I can maybe give it longer or make adjustments in case I suffer the same fate :/


cheers mate

[Marc Stock]

I used it over enamel to seal in some decals. 0:1


Your supposed to be able to airbrush it right on, it's very watery; runs easily and isn't very durable when dry it chips easily too.


The cracking occurred on the sides of the model; I have been able to reduce the effect by sanding; but i'm going back to humbrol gloss coat with 1:1 thinners. It's much harder, not as runny so it stays put.

[Guest]

Thanks mate, the fact that you say it's not suitable worries me, I want to wet and dry and polish the body. I just bought Ferrari paint from hiroboy and could have gotten their 1k clear but thought maybe this stiff would have done the job. :S not so sure now but... This is my test model to really get to grips with things so I'm not going to lose much sleep over It. Hmm

[Marc Stock]

If your going to colour sand; humrol clear deffo won't be the way to go. I tried that too and that's how I discovered it chips easily leaving pits in the sanded surface.


If you really want a flawless finish, I'd go with a matt coat, let that cure/harden for a week and either.


Go for your 1K clear.


Or if you are colour sanding skip the clearcoat and build from 2000 all the way to 12000 and apply a model polish. This will take a long time but the results are amazing.

[Guest]

It's Tamiya mica blue so I was not sure about sanding the base coat, I know people sand and polish flat colours but I heard that metallics should just be clear coated And then polished?

[Marc Stock]

Yes sorry I was assuming a flat colour. But your correct.


You could go with a clearcoat on top, if colour sanding though I'd go with a clearcoat that is hard and durable.

[Guest]

Cheers mate