Actually yeah i do like enamels for spraying small parts like calipers, discs etc becouse it goes so.hard But for larger areas i find zero paints the business..
Mercedes SLS AMG 1:24 Revell 07100.
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Front grille.
It doesn't really show it but the Mercedes emblem is in chrome and the bit it is attached to is in aluminium (and silky black obviously.)
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Originally posted by \I actually do like enamels for spraying. (Personal opinion follows!!!!) the only problems I have with them is the drying time, especially gloss and semi gloss, and ease of stripping should I bollix up the paintingops:.
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No, revell acrylic, looks even betterer now imo, I've polished it up with some 12000 and clear glossed it, now just have to cut it back with some 8000 and 12000 and apply polish. I think I'm starting to get the hang of this.Comment
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Originally posted by \Looking around the forum I think I'm the only one that still use brush to paint..I don't use compressor because I like to feel the brush..I use enamel which I thin and different size brushes..this is my latest body that I painted with brush..
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Ick! Just when you think you're getting the hang of it this hobby jumps up and kicks you in the doodads.
I did a light polishing of the paint with some 12000 paper and let it dry.
I then applied some gloss varnish (Vallejo) this morning and tonight at about 9:30 I started to polish with some 8000 and 12000. To my horror, after a while the varnish started to peel off. Curses, I had to remove all the varnish.
Not sure what I did wrong, any ideas?
Anyway, got a bit cross so just decided to apply some polish directly on the paint. I think it looks ok but think it would have looked better with a clear gloss finish over it.
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WOW that body work is amazing I admire you car guys and gals that get this kind of result.
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Originally posted by \Ick! Just when you think you're getting the hang of it this hobby jumps up and kicks you in the doodads.
I did a light polishing of the paint with some 12000 paper and let it dry.
I then applied some gloss varnish (Vallejo) this morning and tonight at about 9:30 I started to polish with some 8000 and 12000. To my horror, after a while the varnish started to peel off. Curses, I had to remove all the varnish.
Not sure what I did wrong, any ideas?
What I would have done is sand your topcoat with the 8000 grit (6000 would actually of made a better key for your clearcoat), washed it and dried it and then apply your clearcoats. Leave your 12000 for the topcoat only.
Also Acrylics are not as strong bonding as cellulose paints or enamel. This is why zero paints for car bodywork are so popular as the paint actually softens the surface being applied and ends up bonding to the plastic as the cellulose gasses off.
Of course cellulose paints can be harmful to the lungs and you need masks to use and good ventilation! Where acrylic is safe and better for you more care is need when working the surface for polishing.Comment
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Originally posted by \Could be that you applied the clearcoat on a surface that is too smooth. It had nothing to grab onto. So when it dried it would of effectively sheeted off and a little bit of sanding would of been enough to overcome the friction between layers making it peel.
What I would have done is sand your topcoat with the 8000 grit (6000 would actually of made a better key for your clearcoat), washed it and dried it and then apply your clearcoats. Leave your 12000 for the topcoat only.
Also Acrylics are not as strong bonding as cellulose paints or enamel. This is why zero paints for car bodywork are so popular as the paint actually softens the surface being applied and ends up bonding to the plastic as the cellulose gasses off.
Of course cellulose paints can be harmful to the lungs and you need masks to use and good ventilation! Where acrylic is safe and better for you more care is need when working the surface for polishing.
Your point was one that I considered as the most likely suspect.
I also wondered if I had maybe worked on the gloss clear coat too soon, perhaps I should have waited as it was less than 24 hours after applying the gloss.
I also wondered if maybe the type of gloss clear coat was wrong, I might try with some of the alclad aqua gloss or even Future.Comment
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Could be any one or a combination of these factors. I remember last year when i did my 1st model since 14 years old bought some humbrol clearcoat and it was terrible . It cracked up all over the place like a spider flaked off and i had to do again with brush clearcoat and thinners in an airbrush.Comment
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Did you maybe not leave enough time for the paint to cure on top of the fact that it maybe had no key to bite into? I agree with the above, 4000 would be adequate to allow the clear to flow well and still bite but for the clear to be thick enough to sand and Polish it would need a few layers which could take days to dry and harden. I've seen me apply clear too thick and the clear is still soft underneath the top coat weeks later. It's hard to gauge how thick to put it on and how long to let it dry sometimes.Comment
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