Model T Ford

[Guest]

After 2015, having made a 1/16 1936 Rolls-Royce Phantom 1934:
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and a 1/16 Cattletruck and trailer:
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there was a lull in my modelling activity. But I have just started the Revell 1/16 Model T Ford:
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From its introduction in 1908 and for the first five years, colours included blue, grey, green, red and many others, but not black! Then black gave way towards the end of production in 1927 to six new colours including brown, green and maroon.

I am researching (anyone got any ideas of sites?) the exact shades and will choose one. Perhaps not red (too noisy), nor geen nor white like my others. Perhaps a middling blue to reflect the early models.

Looking forward to this, but at my pace it will take many months.

[PaulTRose]

any colour you like as long as its black? :smiling5:

should look good in this larger scale

i like the truck/trailer by the way

[peterairfix]

Try this site. http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/118802/118925.html

[Steve O]

All the best with the model T Steve but I love the truck.

Steve.

[monica]

nice pick,Steve,will be keeping an eye on this one,good luck with it,:smiling:

[papa 695]

Looking forward to seeing this one Steve

[Guest]

Watching...:upside::upside::upside:

[Guest]

Good progress in the last seven days. Most of the sub-parts (like the cabin, boot, engine cowling etc.) which will be mounted on the chassis are finish painted in gloss blue or matt beige (leather). The chassis itself has been gloss finish painted on the right side and tomorrow or Friday the left will be done along with the rest of the sub-parts.

I am using Tamiya TS gloss paint in a spray can. This requires a conventional primer, light dusting first undercoat of blue, a second undercoat a day later slightly thicker, and after another day or more the final coat is sprayed to generous wetness to give the gloss. If the model, covered in a very wet coat, is left without movement, the paint will run which is disastrous. To avoid that I used to twist and turn my hand rotating the model about a horizontal axis to prevent gravity causing a permanent run anywhere. This was tedious so I rigged up a battery driven rotating support (image "Front"), which shows the left side (top of the image) of the chassis fully glossed. The high gloss can be seen in the reflection of the light. The sheet of card is to prevent the paint covering the drive unit.

The second image ("Back") shows the drive mechanism which I made last year. A gloss painted part becomes safe from runs in about 10 minutes. I will gloss the other side tomorrow along with the couple of parts not yet glossed.

Also attached ("Wheel") is one of the five wheels. The hubs gave me a lot of trouble. They would not fit snuggley into the circular recess in the wheel. The result was the wheel wobbling all over the place. After a lot of head scratching I heavily filed one of the two hub parts which solverd the problem. The only fault so far seen. It's a high quality product.
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[Guest]

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Here is the cab - quite complex to assemble. More fingers needed!

[john i am]

Watching with interest as I have this in my stash. Your doing a great job of it Steve I look forward to further updates. Cheers John

[Guest]

Looking good so far mate will be following along as I've checked this kit out a few times.
Will be looking forward to the Steve treatment on this kit.

[papa 695]

Very nice work so far Steve.

[Guest]

Finished! Build report below.

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This is the build report. In a few minutes I will put up a set of finished photos on Completed Civilian Vehicles > Completed Civilian Cars. Here are some notes on the building of the kit.

The kit, by Revell, is overall good. It models the 1912 version. It was possible to make each part and attach them all in order with the step by step instructions without finding a part should have been attached earlier for which there was no access. There were two difficult stages:

The first concerned the engine bonnet ("Hood"). There were clear signs in the surfaces of the radiator and in the forward surface of the windscreen bulkhead (or whatever that is called). In the case of the bulkhead there was a ridge that accurately fitted the end of the bonnet. However, if installed there the bonnet would have been at a ludicrous angle, sloping down steeply towards the rear of the model. I had to re-locate that bonnet end much higher up to where there was no sign that it lived there. The result was OK but this was a major error by Revell in the making of these parts.

The second difficulty involved the left and right guilded vertical rods which are at the non-hinge side of the doors (Image 05 in my Completed Civilian Cars post), and which support the roof. The lower ends of these two rods each had a peg which clearly fitted into the body but I had to drill a hole in the body to take them. No real problem but a disappointing error by Revell.

I scratch built the wooden slats to keep the rear passenger's feet dry. As the Internet states: "The Model T was conceived by Henry Ford as practical, affordable transportation for the common man, it quickly became prized for its low cost, durability, versatility, and ease of maintenance." The blue colour (my choice) was by Tamiya TS89 Enamel "Pearl Blue". A disappointment is the lack of decorative lining. The kit comes with a decal sheet containing guilded lines about 1 mm wide and up to 120 mm long with a bend in the middle. These are printed very close together in the decal sheet leaving a very little space to cut without spoiling the nearby decal. When applied the lines are exceptionally delicate and broke. So no lining.