"Bendy Bus" VW Doka / 5th wheel camper kitbash

[JR]

Yes Tim's right, what happened ? Can't believe its not that bad that you think it is Andy.
Far too good not to finish to the rest of the high standard.:thumb2:

[scottie3158]

Andy,
The aircraft guys will be able to tell you how to repair/salvage the windows.

[Guest]

Maybe I should stop trying to be funny, my sense of humour clearly doesn't come across well in print. Sorry chaps.

To clear things up:

Fitting of the windows was quite a task.

There is much glue residue on the transparencies, painted surrounds and bodywork.

I have begun the process of cleaning up said residue. This will take some time.

Cleaning up the residue, while successful, also leads to an amount of paint being removed from the surrounds. This will need to be touched up afterwards.

Once again, I am sorry for being flippant and giving you the wrong impression (as has happened several times in the past), I'll try and keep it purely factual from now on.

[outrunner]

Whew, nearly gave me a coronary saying that it was going to consigned to a corner somewhere. What glue do you use for windows Andy? I use Glue and Glaze, any overspill simply washes off with water. I am sure a man of your capabilities will manage to rescue the model.

Andy.

[Tim Marlow]

Had me worried too....For info, I use “canopy glue” but it’s basically
PVA. Same result, sticks ‘em in nicely and overshoot gets removed with water...

[Guest]

What glue do you use for windows Andy?

For this, I think it's called formula 560, or something like that.

It came free with something else I bought, just another pva type glue.

I've used it before to temporarily attach parts (including canopies) while painting.

I prefer Tamiya Extra Thin for a permanent fixture on canopies but it wasn't appropriate for this application.

[JR]

Well that's a relief Andy.:thumb2:
I use that Glue and Glaze for building windows.

[rtfoe]

Hi Andy, not all PVAs dry clear. Elmers is what I use for vehicals and cars. You'll be surprised how strong they can be. Vehical windows are normally flat and large so I would mask with the largest tape I have and only for this I would cut with a new blade as clost to the edge as possible. The cutting seals any paint or glue seapage also that thin edge acts as part of the black rubber lining. I will then apply thinned PVA with a sharp brush and let the gaps fill up with layers. You can mask the outer lining or the window body if you're not steady with hand painting. Also that helps when you airbrush the black rubber.

Here's the tricky part, you will need to retrace the masking with a new blade because dried PVA is tough and doesn't tear off easily when you remove the masking tape.

The logical way I would aproach this is like painting an aircraft...paint the interior before assmbley, fit the clear parts, mask then paint the whole body. I sit back sometimes and plan the approach for the easiest option, sometimes the reverse application works better like thin striping when I don't have decals...most people would paint the whole body first and then mask for the stripes, I would do the reverse and paint in the stripe colors, mask and then paint the body. It's easier to cut consistant thin strips then to mask them.

I know this is long but I was hoping after reading this you would have gotten your composure back to tackle the windows again. :smiling6: Remember not to rush the last bit.

Cheers,
Richard

[Guest]

That sounds like a great approach Richard, and something I'll consider for the future.

The damage is already done here and I have no desire to start over, but as I said earlier, there's always the next one. I am tidying things up the best I can, and the remaining flaws will be a visible reminder to use a different method next time :smiling3:

[Jim R]

Hi Andy
Well I'm glad you're still on track with this. I use Microscale Micro Krystal Klear for fitting clear parts. Dries clear, cleans up with water and is waterproof when dry.
Jim

[minitnkr]

I use Krystal Klear for clear parts also, as in my scale it has enough surface tension to make whole windowshields if needed. It starts to yellow in the bottle after about 25 years though:smiling2:. PaulE

[Guest]

I also have some Krystal Klear, and even Revell contacta clear, but this one fell into my hand first.

I've started fitting the interior to the trailer and of course have ruined the floor and the mattress up front with clumsiness and stray glue. Seems like a good excuse to make some more items, to cover up those spots.

[Allen Dewire]

You go Andy,

This project is just too cool to stop now. No matter how bad it could be, your work is brilliant and ever so creative...Don't worry about your sense of humor either. You come across A-Ok here Scratchy!!!

Please post a pic or two so we can see the progress and have you finished making the T-Bone steaks yet??? Oh and please tell Mr. Race to stop posting his baby pictures on your thread………..

Bleib Gesund
Allen

[Mini Me]

Make mine a Ribeye if you please.........no sense messing around with inferior cuts of meat!:tongue-out3: Rick H.

[Guest]

No chance of me shelving this one Allen, I've been enjoying it too much

Although to follow the Gamble Aware adage - "When the fun stops, stop", I feel a pause may be prudent. I have a couple of "quickies" I can build while I wait for the chrome paint and other things to arrive.