Superb work
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Thanks Steve.
Dave - now buried deep underground, covered in tarmac and concrete. That'll keep 'em safe!Comment
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I ended up spraying a coat of gloss white over the chassis. I did some terrible painting of the various cables & hoses running underneath and added the suspension, lower engine & subframe.
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I managed some of the decals on the engine, and added some plug leads from 0.2mm lead wire. Again, the painting looks a bit ropey zoomed in so far but is good enough to the naked eye. It's just over an inch wide (~30mm) in reality.
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I fashioned a "Max Power" exhaust to replace the tiny kit one. I considered twin pipes (like mine had), and may still do that, but even this looks more in keeping with a customised bus. (it's intentionally bent downwards to clear the rear bumper)
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And I knocked up a period roof rack frame. I managed to solder one of the joints but the others just wouldn't have it. I think the 1mm copper wire was just wicking away too much heat to get a decent wet joint so I used CA. I've cut some wooden planks out of coffee stirrers and will add those once it's painted. It's sitting a bit high in these pictures but I've since bent the crossbars a little to follow the curve of the roof a bit (after looking at reference photos) and shortened the legs. It'll need some feet and clamps but they can wait until the roof has been painted and I'll fit them in situ to make life a bit easier.
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Andy,
Lovely work all round mate.Comment
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Thanks Paul.
Just taken another shot with it lowered and the planks mocked up. Maybe a little wide but my coffee stirrer stock is dwindling due to the lockdown so had to be sparing! :smiling5: They need straightening up a bit but you get the idea.
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This build just gets better and better.
Andy.Comment
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Cheers Andy.
There's chance for it to all go wrong when I get around to paint though lol. I'm going for a fairly common scheme of white above the bodyline, colour below. Sounds simple but I've had several practice runs at getting a consistent line around all the compound and internal curves, but not got it right yet!Comment
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Andy,
What a brilliant job, subject and use of skills, well done.
I do beleive the original was fitted with a Porsche 911 engine. In my younger days we used to swap Porsche engines in VW Beetles...
Look forward to more of your build,
Mike.Comment
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Hi Andy great work, loving the extras very nice.
Pete.Comment
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Sublime scratch work Andy, logically the space between the planks could serve as drainage for rain or wind to pass through if you've fitted a Porsche engine. :tears-of-joy: Masking compound curves for me is solved by using thin strips of masking tape either 1mm or less then the next layer slightly wider and so on. Imagine masking a 1:1 scale car with a 2 foot wide tape. :smiling2: You've shown some fantastic finishing with paint jobs in past builds and with painting real cars under your belt I see no problem with getting this shiny and new.
This build is certainly unique and needs marking down in my list of great builds.
Cheers,
RichardComment
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Thanks Mike, Pete and Richard.
I did consider the Porsche engine and wheels for this Mike, but the costs put me off a bit. I still think some fancy wheels would go well with it, but since I need 6 I'd have to get 2 sets, which will end up costing nearly as much as the original kits. I then thought about "banding" the wheels, a popular modification on real VW's, by just widening the originals, but then I'd still need to find wider tyres!
This is the kind of thing I based it on Richard, with open slats. Ideally I need to rip mine in half lengthways, but since I haven't got loads of wood to waste I've played safe.
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As for the masking. My thoughts are that doing the white top half first would be best, then masking that off to add the lower colour. That would mean following the various curves while getting the tape right into the edge shown by the yellow tape below
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Whilst it's probably possible, it'll be testing to say the least. An easier way would be to spray the colour then mask where the red tape is shown, and add the white after. As we all know though white over a strong colour doesn't always go well and tests have shown I'll need around 5 coats of MRP white, which will lead to a bit of a build up. Next test is masking fluid. I have the Mr Hobby stuff than can be applied then cut back to a tight line. Will see how that works.
I'll figure it out, it just needs a few more coats of thinking, as we say here :smiling5:Comment
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Andy, I think masking just underneath the curve is doable with thin strip of tape. You will need a steady hand when cutting the masking fluid and it might leave a wedge from the cut.
Cheers,
RichardComment
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It does Ron and in one quick sitting Andy's covered it. :tears-of-joy: Not saying the brush didn't play a part...he did paint the pipes and details freehand
Cheers,
RichardComment
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