Heller 1/24 Delage D8 SS

[Dave Ward]

Cannot understand why Heller made this kit with the rear fenders having a joint right across the top. Weird and should have been unnecessary when you look at the mouldings that could have been done as one instead of three! The joins will be difficult to eradicate unless the modeller is really good with filler and rubbing down before painting.

The Heller moulds date from 1979, so they are a different generation. I think it's fair to say that Heller were never leaders in advanced techniques.
What isn't obvious from the photos is that there is severe warping in the two body halves, so I have to cope with that as well as trying to make a good seam!
Dave

[Dave Ward]

Decided I must really make a start on this - the base for my little sub is drying, so here we go.
Engine assembled - not going to add anything it just fills a hole, and gives a positive location to the exhaust pipe!


Chassis commenced - the Heller black plastic is soft & doesn't sand well it frays & is rather stringy - not good
old fashioned suspension leaf springs with friction dampers..............

The white plastic for the bodywork is a bit harder, so it should be easier to deal with.
Dave

[Dave Ward]

Chassis completed & primed - put aside for the main event

The whole area of concern is the bodywork - it's going to have to be perfect to carry off the two-tone finish.
I think I'm going to have a tussle with this..............................

Slight warpage problem - the centreline seams are going to need some careful work - there aren't any location pins, so pieces of plastic card will be added to the rear of the panels. Filler & sanding sponges at the ready!
Dave

[Tim Marlow]

That’s not warp, it’s the wide bodied version

[Nicko]

That body looks like it might put up a bit of a fight Dave!

Nick

[Dave Ward]

A bit of careful fettling & persuading

Top just dry fitted, I haven't applied any filler yet - I wanted to see if there were any major gaps ( there aren't ).
I've found that the plastic that was 'chrome' plated is resistant to TET, trying Contacta instead ( it's that creamish plastic boot lid ). The bonnet looks like it may be problem, fitting only at end - it'll need investigation
Dave

[Jim R]

Well done Dave. Wrestled into position :thumb2:
Jim

[Dave Ward]

Spent quite a while sanding down the joints the rear wheel arches are in two parts, giving a nasty joint across the middle. I used Revell Plasto filler - it's a bit more 'sticky' than my normal Perfect Plastic Putty. The Heller plastic is soft, and seems to be a little oily. I've already switched to Revell Contacta as glue, - TET doesn't wok particularly well.
The floor pan & wings primed & given a basecoat of Hataka Night Black. I let this dry for a couple of hours, then applied what will be the first of many coats of gloss varnish.................


The upper bodywork had the nasty centre joints filled & rubbed down. I primed & basecoated those areas, to make sure that they were smooth


The parts that were to be 'chromed' wre given a coat of black paint. AK True Metal Silver is used - then when dry ( not long! ) buffed up with a soft coat.

I'll have to apply a couple of coats to get the best shine, but not bad for a first pass.
Dave

[Dave Ward]

Wheels assembled - just the chromed wheel nuts to add. Test fitted on chassis


Another gloss coat added to the lower body...........

Shine is coming up nicely, maybe another two coats will bring it up to acceptable levels.
The boot lid is a really poor fit, gaps on all sides, it'll need a lot of filling & sanding to give a good finish. I found an interesting piccy on the internet - this D8 SS has a shell spare wheel carrier mounted on the boot lid, it's a slightly different bodied version, but these were bespoke cars, and all slightly different. As it happens I have a carrier that came in the crappy Mercedes 500 that I bought off ebay. This maybe a way to cover up the poor fit of the boot lid - I'll have to dig it out to see if it is anywhere the right size

I'm really enjoying this build - it's proving to be challenging, but not so bad that I get discouraged!
Dave

[Bortig the Viking]

AK True Metal Silver is used

Can I ask how you use the AK True Metal, found some in an old drawer after a tidy up during lockdown, can't remember when I got it or why and haven't a clue how to use it. I could probably Google it but prefer first hand guidance.

[Dave Ward]

Can I ask how you use the AK True Metal, found some in an old drawer after a tidy up during lockdown, can't remember when I got it or why and haven't a clue how to use it. I could probably Google it but prefer first hand guidance.

Mark,
I apply it over a matt black primer - the better the surface finish, the better the end result. The AK can be applied evenly by brush, cotton bud, or finger! ( not airbrush! ) It's a wax based paint/polish. After about 20 mins, it should be dry enough to buff up - I use a soft duster, or cotton bud. It may need one or two applications to get the shine right. You can clean brushes in white spirit. You have to experiment to see if you can varnish over the top & not affect the finish.
Dave

[Bortig the Viking]

Mark,
I apply it over a matt black primer - the better the surface finish, the better the end result. The AK can be applied evenly by brush, cotton bud, or finger! ( not airbrush! ) It's a wax based paint/polish. After about 20 mins, it should be dry enough to buff up - I use a soft duster, or cotton bud. It may need one or two applications to get the shine right. You can clean brushes in white spirit. You have to experiment to see if you can varnish over the top & not affect the finish.
Dave

Thanks for that, will give it a try and see how I get on with it, just wish I could remember why I bought the two tubes, lol.

[JR]

Never knew about using bleach as a stripper before, another handy tip , thanks .

[Dave Ward]

I've added the spare wheel cover from the Heller Mercedes 500 - It'll need a little putty to fill the gap ( straight wheel cover base to curved boot lid )


The bonnet & side panels have their ivory areas sprayed - I'll let those thoroughly dry overnight. I'll make a template, so I can cut a pair of symmetrical masks to cover the ivory oval portions of the door.

Dave

[Dave Ward]

Made a template, and used it to make left & right masks. Primed & basecoated with Night Black - I did get a bit of bleed under the mask, but nothing really disastrous


The ill-fitting bootl id still needs a bit of attention - always the case when you start putting on the final coats!
Dave