Tamiya 1/24 ASTON MARTIN DBS mini blog

[Guest]

That is one stunning looking body you have there Richy :emo1:

[tr1ckey66]

Is Graham making a pass at you Richy:flower: ???

Just kiddin' Graham, someone was bound to pick up on a statement like that!

...But Graham is right, that paint finish looks superb, makes me want to try building a car.

Really looking forward to seeing this complete.

I once did some graphic design work for Aston and was invited down to their Newport Pagnell factory. This was a while ago and things may have changed but it was really quite quaint and very British. The engines were completed on one side of the road to then be transported to other side of the road for the coachfitting, and as you can expect service was of the utmost importance. If memory serves me right some engines have a plate mounted on them telling you the mechanic that worked on it (that may have been a special service though). I have a brochure that I designed on the 6.3 litre Virage and Volante conversions - really nice cars.

Good luck with the rest of it I know this is gonna be good:thumbsup:

Paul

[Guest]

someone was bound to pick up on a statement like that!

That is exactly why I made a statement like that ;-)

[Ian M]

Looking really rather good Richard.

And yes the colour looks good to. Aston Martin racing Green. jep say so on the bottle don't it!!! LOL. No sign of the Kebab yet !

Looking forwards to seeing the shiny stuff.

Ian M

[Guest]

Hi Ian , yep made a bit of fool of myself on that one mate ( the colour not the kebab ) , never mind I`m sure it won`t be the last time , DBS has come to a stop for the last few days the weather has been too nice in the UK been getting home from work and having a few beers in the garden , I hope to crack on over the weekend will post any updates then

Cheers

Richy

[Guest]

Hi gents , feel I`ve gone a bit backwards on the bodywork , went as heavy as I thought I could go on the zero wet coats without messing up (2 coats) , did not look a lot different apart from sealing the wash and bonnet decal , when dry - on went the 3 pack zero polish in stages , bodywork is now very smooth but no more glossy , tomorrow I`m going over the panel lines again with a wash and leaving it as that ,

also moved the underside of the chassis on a bit , tamiya colours suggest semi gloss black and an aluminium which I done but it looked like a toy so I weathered it , not sure how realistic it is having never had an Aston let alone seen what the underside looks like , still got to pick out the exhausts which should fun , I reserve judgement on the zero polish at this stage

Richy

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[Guest]

Seems to be quite a lot of discussion on the web about how to use Zero products Richy. Interestingly, in their own downloadable PDF instructions the process is defined as primer, then a few coats of base colour dusted on then the clearcoat. I have read on the net that the 2K clearcoat, which sounds like a sprayable two part resin to me, is the trickiest to use as it is fairly fast drying, 30 mins) and requires very good clean up of airbrush and is harmful so requires a face mask/respirator. Although they say that this is the best clearcoat, they also say it is difficult to polish out and 'orange peel' effect as the material is so hard. The 1K clearcoat is recommended for inexperienced users.

It is the clearcoat that gets the final polishing, in effect you are polishing a resin coat above the colour base-coat rather than polishing the base-coat itself. Also interesting is that on their PDF instructions they say that:-

CLEARCOATING As mentioned earlier, the basecoat colours will dry with a Matt finish therefore MUST be clearcoated. For the ultimate shine and colour depth Zero Paints 2K (2 pack) High Solid Acrylic Clearcoat (Part No. ZP-3006) is recommended. Once the basecoat colour is fully dry you can clearcoat, this can sometimes be as quick as 30 minutes. Clearcoats will have their own instruction depending on the brand. The following brands of Clearcoats have also been tested without any issues: Tamiya TS13, Mr Hobby range (Mr Top Gloss etc) and Halfords Lacquer.

It would appear that any of the other branded clearcoats, in these cases gloss varnishes I would think, work well and would probably be easier to work with and should still polish, perhaps with a little more care as they will not be as hard as the zero paints resin clearcoats.

[Guest]

It may be wortwhile, for ease of use as it already has a Lacquer topcoat on to use a spray can cellulose clearcoat, (halfords etc)?

Re the underside, simple, all you need do is get a trolley jack and couple of axle stands then have a drive around somewhere posh until you see the real thing, you then approach the owners door, axle stands and jack in hand and say, 'Scuse me matey, this may sound like an odd request but..........'

:emo6:

Looking nice BTW, still prefer the dark gray, bah humbug

[Guest]

As I get deeper into the bike,I have just primed the fairing, I have realised something so obvious I just didn't think abut it. However, I see you have a similar situation Richy. How are you (indeed are you) going to spray the inside without overspray on the outside? I have decided to spray the inside of the fairing first as any overspray getting inside will hardly be noticed (famous last words....)

[Guest]

Hi all , had a bit of a setback last weekend after finnishing the bodywork was not happy with the gloss zero finnish also noticed a bit of wash on the doors I had missed , I fine sanded the gloss and gave it 2 miscoats of the base coat - at this stage it looked great unsure about using the zero gloss again I went for a vallejo gloss finnish , when dry it had hairs on it and felt like a heavy duty sandpaper, when dry again I went over the whole lot with a fine sanding stick it now feels as smooth as glass but it took about 3 hrs which is at the stage I`m now at , I have only two small issues to get over 1- protecting bonnet decal 2- scribing paint build up from the door handle areas , once done its getting 2 light basecoats and 2 light tamiya clear gloss coats - no more no less

I`ve moved on the rest of the kit but they all bits still needs a bit more work, photos show a small section , with the underside chassis I`ve weathered it a bit with washes and dry mig pigments , with the interior I started with tamiyas suggested colour but it was far to dark to show any details so its an area I`m still working on , will post pictures when I`m happy with the colour.

Richy

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[Guest]

Getting the final finish is the key to these models isn't it. I know that military stuff needs to be finished well but bikes, cars and lorries etc need that hi gloss yet in scale gloss finish or it just doesn't look right. Have to say that on the Honda, I switched to using Humbrol rattle can gloss white acrylic which gave me a great finish, once I stopped dropping it in the dirt.... Anyway, as the Honda has all the decals for the colouring over the white, it looked great after 2 hours doing the decals. However, I knew that I would have to spray a gloss finish if only to protect the huge decals. I decided to try Tamiya Clear as I knew it would be safe over the Humbrol acrylic. It dries a matt finish though which has suprised me as I understood that Tamiya X rather than XF were glossy. So I still have to get the gloss finish back but as it is over decals, I have not many chances of getting it right. I have read on t'internet that Halfords clear lacquer (also mentioned in Zero's own guidance as above) is good but I am not sure.

Interestingly, I have just read this quote from TimB on Promodellers regarding Zero glosscoat:

NB. Don't be conned by "prethinned" It requires at least a 60%-40% mix in favour of cellulose/laquer thinners.

[Guest]

The Tamiya stuff should give you a gloss finish, you'd use X21 flat base mixed to give it a satin or matte sheen.

Did you spray it as a wet coat?

Now having said this i've only brushed Tamiya clear so far but provided it's laid on wet it does dry gloss.

[Guest]

I sprayed it as normal but I may not have thinned it enough which could have resulted in it drying as it hit. Will try a thinner wet coat and see what happens. Thanks for the info Mike.

[Guest]

Hi Graham , I`ve also heard great things about Halfords clear lacquer I was tempted but am put put off not having any control over the pressure given out with a spraycan , tbh the zero clearcoat was not that bad just that I did not clean up the wash properly otherwise I would have been happyish with the finnish , also it did not have a high gloss finnish I was expecting maybe I was me , was not sure what to expect , anyway as you have said the final coat either makes or brakes a model , the 3 pack polish worked a treat but once in the panel lines you could not get it out ,

we are both trying new things here and the great thing is we are trying to set high standards to the best of our abilities , its a great learning curve even when things go belly up , at one stage I thought I`d lost the DBS but I`m not giving up and slowly getting it back to the standard I want it to be, might even give the zero clear another go ?

Richy

[Guest]

Given the comments from Mike about the Tamiya Clear, I will be trying that again with a different mix to get a 'wet' coat. I was going to get a can of the Halfords today but was that excited at getting two new mags and a compass cutter from Hobbycraft, I forgot........... Anyway, if the Tamiya Clear does not give the results tonight, I will be off to Halfords tomorrow praying it does not melt the paint and clear I have already sprayed.

As you say, we are trying out new stuff and what a bonus to be able to share it on here. I just hope that our joint experiments and results will be of use to others when they have a go at a bike or car.