Revell 1:16 Rolls Royce Phantom II Continental (1934)

[Guest]

Just wait till ypu'll fit the doors. I'm glad ypu liked my RR. It was fun tp build but painting it was a true trouble for me to achieve desored gloss. I'd recommend to use car paint instead of model paint

I noticed you comment on the doors when you posted your Roller 18 months ago. I have dry-fitted the rear curved panel and the engine bulkhead/dash unit, and the doors which of course keep falling down at this stage so I haven't yet tested the fit.

[Guest]

Hi Steve,I think this is going to be one heck of a build. That is some clean building you are presenting us Sir.

The paint job so far on the motor an chassis are looking perfect and for the dash I to would go for a walnut decal.

take the build slow and easy to avoid mistakes but keep the pictures coming.

Cheers Richi

I plan to print (possibly on decal paper) Internet clips of walnut veneer (reduced in scale) for the dash and the wood top to the doors. Dead right about being slow and easy. I am an expert in that, especially when having to do chores about the house (which I do, being a "new man").

[Richi72]

Hi Steve,

I found this site a while back and I found it quite usefull for making your own decals.

http://cgtextures.com

Cheers Richi

[Guest]

Hi Steve,I found this site a while back and I found it quite usefull for making your own decals.

http://cgtextures.com

Cheers Richi

Thanks. Really useful. There are lots of samples there and one of a nice brown hardwood and being mirror images on all four sides they can tile a surface without showing joins.

[Guest]

Just latched onto this article of yours Steve.

I thought of you as aircraft only so this is a departure.

Like the engine with the yellow leads and the silver tops to the bolt heads.

This will give some idea on the Walnut type used.

https://www.google.com/search?q=rolls+royce+walnut+pictures&client=firefo x&hs=Nmf&rls=com.yahoo:en-GBfficial&channel=sb&tbm=isch&imgil=9hBZTPNRn5bCmM%2 53A%253Bhttps%253A%252F%252Fencrypted-tbn1.gstatic

Laurie

[Guest]

Thanks Laurie. Some nice wood examples there.

[Guest]

I built the itilari kit some years ago and have to say it went together very well the only thing that was a bit disappointing was the chrome on the grill looked as though it had been sprayed on and ran, I cleaned it all off and sprayed it silver but it never looked as good as chrome. Your build looks to be coming along great.

[Guest]

I built the itilari kit some years ago and have to say it went together very well the only thing that was a bit disappointing was the chrome on the grill looked as though it had been sprayed on and ran, I cleaned it all off and sprayed it silver but it never looked as good as chrome. Your build looks to be coming along great.

The radiator of my Revell kit has a small wrinkle on one side. Because that part is so iconic for Rolls Royce I plan to clean off the chrome paint, sand smooth and use Alclad High-Shine Chrome. Perhaps I will do the same for some of the other more prominent parts.

On the Itilari kit, but I have two more vintage cars in my stash and have decided to be content with those. But I might weaken!

[Guest]

This looks like it is going to be another "is this really a model"

[Guest]

I have been dry fitting again the curved rear panel, canopy and the dash/engine bulkhead. I knew they fitted before but I wanted to check the fit of the doors (bluriusz had warned that they do not fit). I taped the above three parts to keep them firmly in place as they would be after gluing but I didn't want to commit to gluing until other next door parts like the bonnet had been checked for fit. The last photo shows this.

This photo shows the problem gap at the bottom (made visible by some white paper behind). However, note the good out-of-the-box close fit of the other two edges of the door).

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To fill the gap I used some 1 mm polystyrene sheet that I had, cut into 2 mm wide strips for each door. I superglued them together to make the strips 2mm x 2mm and used polycement (the actual glue, not the liquid solvent) to attach them to the door. I used the cement because I thought it would provider a stronger joint.:

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The bottom edge was then sanded to fit. This is all standard stuff to most most others but its the first time I have added solid polystyrene to a part and it went well. It needed a lot of sanding to level it to the side surface of the doors and I discovered that a small file is quicker than a sanding stick when lots have to be removed.The doors make a perfect fit except that the other door needs a little trimming at the front edge to allow it to open. I will do that just after painting and attaching it. I don't like committing myself to gluing until it is necessary.

Next stop, dry fit the four panels of the bonnet and the central hinge rod to the engine bulkhead and the Rolls Royce radiator.

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[Guest]

giving you a bit of a fight steve,but i must say one stirling job you are doinf

mobear

[Guest]

Looking good Steve, i know it will be worth the effort in the end.

Keep up the good work.

John

[Guest]

Engine bulkhead is finished except for the dashboard (next job) which will have burr walnut (hopefully, depending on how to keep the instruments).

In the first pic the electrical wiring was shown on the kit as raised lines which I always find unconvincing when painted. The thick black one (for the starter motor) was covered in thin strips of Magic Tape, not Sellotpe which tends to wrinkle with age (OK, cut the jokes) previously painted black and folded around the edges of the raised lines. The other wiring is 22 Gauge copper wire from a florists' supplier.

The image looks spotted with dust and white unpainted spots and lots of little reflections. Photos of models closeup often show that. The actual model looks much better to the eye.

The second pic shows the two plates. The top ("Coachwork Plate" I call it) is a print of a photo out of a book and you can just see the words "Rolls Royce". It looks clearer on the model. The lower ("Chassis Plate") is a mockup (the letters are too small to be seen at this scale).

BTW, I have just discovered by accident that you can upload files by dragging them from your computer to the message window (at least you can on a Mac). I suspect they appear at the end of the message so if you wanted them in between paragraphs it might be best to upload the images first then type the text in between.

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[monica]

looking great Steve, alot of hard work but it,s showing , look forward to next update

[john i am]

Great work Steve top job so far