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Scale Model Shop
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Revell 1:16 Rolls Royce Phantom II Continental (1934)
Having decided to scratch build the dashboard (the one supplied would not take my burr walnut decal because of its lumps and bumps of surface detail), I have made some progress. The decal went on OK on the top item (its made of two pieces of sheet poly at right angles to each other), wrapping itself around the right angled bend and edges. However, the main part is flat (until I build on bits and pieces of surface detail) so I just glued on a piece of the decal paper complete with its bur walnut decal. The pink shape is made of wire, to be the bezel around the instruments, just placed there for now. It will of course be painted black! :
[ATTACH]82656.IPB[/ATTACH]
Also, I have made progress with the body parts and here is a pic of the chest that goes on the rear of the car. I'm pleased with the quality of the gloss:
Slow Progress—been on holiday to Grasmere. (If you haven't been there, go. It is beautiful.)
Having decided to scratch build the dashboard (because my printed burr walnut decal refused to sink down on top of all the nobbles in the kit dashboard) I kept roughly to the kit design. The chrome plated knob on the left, on the glove box lid, is an ordinary pin. The handle on the right is also chrome, (Bare Metal Foil). Although the photo does not show it well, it glints nicely as you move your head around. The surround to the instruments is specified as black in the kit but a Rolls Royce enthusiast friend told me that it was usually nickel plated—too late now! That surround was made by sticking a copy of the instrument decal on to a piece of wood, then pins were stuck in all around the edge. A piece of copper wire was then bent and pulled around the pins to give it the required shape. There is another part to it, just a plain strip.
[ATTACH]83797.IPB[/ATTACH]
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Here is the iconic Rolls Royce radiator. The kit one was chromed like the other chromed parts, but it had a wrinkle in the plastic, so I sanded the whole part ready for using Alclad 2 High Shine Chrome. However, that did not work. First, the black base produced white spots. This happened twice, each time after sanding down to plastic and of course cleaning. Alclad said that it must be caused by a reaction to the plastic. This is possible—the plastic for all the chromed parts was a milky white. Second, I could not get a high shine with the second coat no matter what I tried in various experiments. So I have given up on Alclad. I used Bare Metal Foil, Ultra Bright Chrome which seems to have worked although it is not perfect. More experience in using it would improve it. The yellow is a reflection of a sheet of paper. Photographing shiny objects is always difficult.
[ATTACH]83798.IPB[/ATTACH]
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The top inside of the doors were specified in the instructions to be brown paint but having already printed some burr walnut decal I used that. It contrasts nicely with the green paint on the top edge of the door panel. The inside door handle will be chromed using Bare Metal Foil .
[ATTACH]83801.IPB[/ATTACH]
My next step is to start assembling the interior fittings and the body panels to the main body, all of which were painted some time ago.
The reason you could not get a god shine on the second coat of Alclad chrome is probably due to it needs to go on in only one very light coat. But yes to get a chrome like finish is a challenge.
Looking very nice. Love the dash.The reason you could not get a god shine on the second coat of Alclad chrome is probably due to it needs to go on in only one very light coat. But yes to get a chrome like finish is a challenge.
Ian M
Thanks. I won't give up! I will try again with a very light coat, at even lower pressure (like 7 PSI—my 0.4 mm needle probably squirts at a greater rate than is best for Alclad). One thing I noticed on the last practice is that the chrome finish was very dry and I could wipe off some dust. From experience with acrylic gloss varnish, this seems to be due to the stream drying before it reaches the part. Holding the nozzle even closer and not pulling the trigger so far back might help.
I agree with Ian. Do as much as you can to get the black gloss finish (even put couple coats) and then just one thin chrome layer. If you spray it second time all the effect with disappear. I chromed this very radiator in my build and looked all right. People say that the better black base, the better chrome finish.
I agree with Ian. Do as much as you can to get the black gloss finish (even put couple coats) and then just one thin chrome layer. If you spray it second time all the effect with disappear. I chromed this very radiator in my build and looked all right. People say that the better black base, the better chrome finish.Good luck.
That's interesting. You apparently had no trouble from white spots on the black base (as I have), so Alclad's theory that the milky-white plastic of the radiator was reacting with the black base is not correct. It is puzzling that I can get a prefect mirror finish of the black base when applied on a metal drinks can (as suggested by Alclad. Assuming I can prevent those spots I will persevere with practicing applying a very light single coat of the chrome.
Just a quick question. Did you use alclad black base coat? Because I used Revell's acrylic. I guess you can even paint it matt and then put the gloss on.
I didn't recieve mirror finish but it was good enough. Must say that when I use it again on exhaust on my Yamaha it was much worse..
Just a quick question. Did you use alclad black base coat? Because I used Revell's acrylic. I guess you can even paint it matt and then put the gloss on.I didn't recieve mirror finish but it was good enough. Must say that when I use it again on exhaust on my Yamaha it was much worse..
Yes, I used the Alclad Black Base, and also on the drinks tin (as advised by Alclad to try to solve the white spots I got on the Rolls Royce radiator part after the black base was applied) and got a very good hard glossy shine with no spots. What helped was the experience I had gained in applying Tamiya's gloss synthetic lacquer to the body panels. My remaining problems are to solve the white spots on the radiator, and mastering applying the Chrome using the tips posted a few post above. But I'm off on a holiday in Scotland on Monday for 10 days (now that the warm weather has gon!), so no progress for a while yet.
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