Tamiya Repsol Honda RC213V

[Mr Bowcat]

Morning guys.

I started getting some of the painted bits together yesterday.



I'm not convinced that the exhaust heat staining is particularly good, it was my first ever attempt at doing this. As most of it will be hidden I decided to leave it.

I still need to do a panel line wash on some of the parts, particularly the brake calipers and handlebars.

[Tim Marlow]

That’s a great build Bob. You are at the really fun part when everything comes together. See what you mean about the exhaust stains. The colouration is great, but there seem to be more joints in the model than in the real one. Never looked that closely at a race exhaust though, so I might be wrong.......

[Mr Bowcat]

Cheers Tim.

Looking at pictures of the Repsol bike the joints are fairly accurate, I just think my staining is a bit too uniform.

[adt70hk]

Looking very good indeed Bob.

Well done so far.

Andrew

[Mr Bowcat]

Cheers Andrew.

[PaulTRose]

well that is starting to look really nice

great work on the zorst

you at the point now where it will suddenly all come together

[Mr Bowcat]

Cheers Paul.

Yep there not much more to do other than decals and clear coat, then finish putting it together.

[Jim R]

Hi Bob
The detail and the finish does indeed make the photos look like the real thing. Beautiful work.
Jim

[minitnkr]

Are you referring to exhaust or welding heat stains? Exhaust heat would be greatest at the head exit and at initial sharp bends lessening as temp cools the further from the exhaust port. Welding stains would be much more uniform although not identical unless by robot:smiling2:. Excellent work in any case. PaulE

[Mr Bowcat]

Cheers gents. :smiling3:

Paul, I know little about bikes (just enough to know not to get on one) so I'm not sure about the exhausts. I assumed it would have been bent, but maybe welded in sections is correct? The real one looks like this:

[minitnkr]

You can see where the cone is attached how the restriction causes more discoloration. The header construction looks to be of a very lightweight segmented flexible material for the curves and those segment edges appear to capture more heat/discoloration. PaulE

[outrunner]

Bob, the exhausts are built up from sections as there is a need to get the length right for maximum extraction of gasses and to have the correct amount of back pressure to get maximum power/torque from the engine so some experimentation is often needed. It is easier to add/remove the correct amount of pipe if it is made from sections and bending a full exhaust from pipe would entail a lot of waste if it needed modified as they are made from titanium so not cheap. Having ridden bikes for over 50 years and still riding you don't know what you are missing mate. :smiling5:

[Mr Bowcat]

Interesting, you learn something new everyday.

Andy, I have several mates who have been badly injured and one mate who died from bike crashes. It's enough to put me off.

[minitnkr]

There is a formula to get you in the ballpark w/length & diameter of primary as well as collector & cone for proper wave extraction. We usually made our adjustments at the collector so as not to mess w/bends. On the dyno you can dial it in pretty close as cut & fit is easier. PaulE

[Mr Bowcat]

Morning chaps.

Had a bit of a disaster with this. I'm working on decals and as some of them need to line up across different panels I decided to fit the panels to the frame first.

The seat/tank section is made up of several parts, including a cover that sits in front of the tank. This is fitted by bending out the sides of the cover to pry them over the tank, which is both tricky and precarious. Not wanting to crack the cover (which itself is made of three parts glued together) I didn't want to over bend the sides and risk breakage so tried to slip it over. Then this happened.



I attempted a spot repair but it looked crap so there was nothing else for it.



It's a bit of a pain, however on the plus side it means I can address a couple of seams that I hadn't fully sorted first time around. Knowing what I know now I will glue the cover on before painting, I guess Tamiya has it as a snap on part in case anyone wanted to remove it for display, I wont be doing this as under the cover is just a fairly boring black box & tank (maybe a fuse box & water tank??).