Mirror Models Bulldozer.

[outrunner]

I am posting this here because it is being built as a civilian machine as opposed to military.
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If you have read my moaning about little problems with the HEMTT Tanker you may wonder why I am now going to build this model which is known to be a wee bit problematic. The fact that I got it cheap does help but the real reason is I really, really, wanted to build something like this, the difference is I bought it knowing of build issues and am willing to tackle it.
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There are 15 sprues and some PE but only 4 sprues have an identification letter on them. This means a lot of time will be spend looking at instructions and then trying to find the part needed. There also seems to be no logic behind the numbering of parts so you might have to check a few sprues before you find the part you need.
One of the main problems with this kit is the tracks, as shown in the instructions they just do not work and it will be impossible to build them as per the book.
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If you study the picture you can see that the link with the pin will not go through the other link as the pin is shouldered and will not fit. I think I have figured out a way to do it but it will involve a lot of work as each track link has 3 parts so that is 216 even before I start to modify them.

Andy.

[Lee Drennen]

Andy. I’m front and center well you don’t have to worry about windows on this lol

[Gern]

I want to watch as I too would like to build one of these. Not sure what you mean about the links though. It looks like only the end of each pin is supposed to go through the next link and the shoulder is there to set the width. I'm going to have a closer look at mine and see if I can understand it better.

Couldn't you label the sprues with tags of masking tape?

[Gern]

I've had a go with a couple of the links. They do actually fit as I described but they're really, really fiddly. It seems the links are actually held together by the tread plates if you want them workable. I suspect you'd have to be a miracle worker to glue the ends of the track pins into the recesses on the opposite link without the glue spilling out and joining the tracks together.

Maybe fix the tread plate to one side link and wait until the glue is tacky enough to hold it, then place the other side of the link into position and add a drop of glue to the locating pins showing on the outside of the tread plate. If the glue is still tacky, you should be able to move things around and get everything square and lined up - a bit like you bend lengths of individual track links round the drive sprocket and idler wheels.

PS Is it just me or is your workbench really HUGE?

[papa 695]

Nice one Andy, just pulled up my chair.

[JR]

Morning Andy.
I built the T20 Komsomolets by Mirror Models sometime ago. The tracks were so fiddley, looking at your photos they were very similar in construction. Press on, I love these lumbering beasts. Since I've built 2 versions of the Russian dozer, great fun but taxing.
I'll grab a seat next to my mate Lee.

[Gern]

Andy. Just had another look at the tracks. They can be assembled without modification if you're careful. It's not clear on the diagram, but the end of the links where the pin joins them is narrower than the other end. When you assemble the next pair, the wider end fits over the narrow end and there are little studs which locate into holes.

Put the two sides of the link together like the image in the extreme top left of your picture but with the pins connecting them to a treadplate on top. If you're right handed, hold them in your left hand with the pins on top and the narrow end facing right. Then put tiny drops of glue on the pins that go into the treadplate and fit a treadplate. Put together the next pair of links - NO GLUE - and you can hold them together in your right hand at a slight angle so you can fit the wider end around the narrow end of the first pair.

Once you have connected the the two pairs of links, squeeze the second links closed around the end of the first links using the tips of the fingers in your left hand. That leaves your right hand free to add glue to the top of each link and add the next treadplate. It is fiddly, but if I can manage with my shaky hands, I'm sure you'll be able to do it. I see no reason why you shouldn't end up with a workable set of tracks as long as you're careful applying glue.

[Gern]

Just had a thought. When do you join the last two links together?

If you wait until all the glue has set, you're going to find it tricky to fit the locating pins on one link inside the locating holes of the other. But if you join them while the glue is still tacky enough for you to move the links apart to fit them together, then either you have to hold the tracks on the tractor while you do it, or you're stuck with trying to fit the completed tracks over the sprocket and idler wheels - unless you leave those unattached during construction - or summat! Don't know the answer to that one without looking into how the chassis and wheel assembly is built.

[outrunner]

After I posted last night I had another look at the tracks and I do understand how they are supposed to work but I doubt if they will take any strain at all and will be really fragile. As to joining them, we shall see how it goes, it does seem a pity the track system is that way as the rest of the parts are really well made and detailed although looking at some of the very small, thin parts it will take great care to get them off the sprue.


Andy.

[Steve Jones]

Best of luck with this kit. I swore I would never touch a mirror model again so I will be interested to see how bad this kit is. Good luck. I think your going to need it

[Gern]

After I posted last night I had another look at the tracks and I do understand how they are supposed to work but I doubt if they will take any strain at all and will be really fragile. As to joining them, we shall see how it goes, it does seem a pity the track system is that way as the rest of the parts are really well made and detailed although looking at some of the very small, thin parts it will take great care to get them off the sprue.


Andy.

I agree. They are going to be really fragile. I suspect your best option would be to add a drop of glue to each link when you've fully completed the kit. You can cover up any glue marks with your weathering. You should achieve the natural sag with the tracks installed while loose and that would reinforce them and hold them in place.

[Guest]

Best of luck with this kit. I swore I would never touch a mirror model again so I will be interested to see how bad this kit is. Good luck. I think your going to need it

I sense that you're new to this pep talk thing :smiling5:

[Steve Jones]

I used to be a motivational coach for Eeyore :smiling5: :smiling5: :thumb2:

[Lee Drennen]

I think Steve is having a flash back where’s JR when you need him

[outrunner]

Best of luck with this kit. I swore I would never touch a mirror model again so I will be interested to see how bad this kit is. Good luck. I think your going to need it

At the moment I am really liking this kit as it has loads of well moulded parts and no flash to speak of. I spent the whole afternoon just on the engine alone and if the rest builds the same all will be good (even the tracks). Perhaps some pictures later.

Andy.