John, I'm ok with a "small fire". It would certainly have a warm lighting effect.
Cheers, Rick H.
Cheers, Rick H.
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There are HO scale "campfires", flickering electric light, available from model RR shops & on-line. PaulEComment
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Glad to see your back Mr RaceComment
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Mind blowing stuff mate. Dio's are not my thing so I shall just watch on in awe as another one of your architectural masterpieces comes together. Permission to carry on:smiling5:Comment
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Yes will probely get it from JS miniature lighting again..
Lee.:smiling2::smiling2::smiling2::smiling2::smili ng2:
Steve...... If we lived nearer we could do a joint
build.
Well it was due in part to your influence and John in Canada that " sparked " the interest.:smiling:
Well as you mostly know other more pressing things have taken place.
I have had a little play with the buildings, did a little brick scribing. Maybe tomorrow when most of the family have returned home I might get the plaster on. That's always an interesting part.Once that is achieved and dried sanding will take place.
The postman arrived Thursday morning with 8 assorted parcels, like Christmas day .
I'll post so photos of the haul.
Thanks for the interest.
John.Comment
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Evening.
Well things seem to be ok on the grandson front so I spent some happy time in a world of my own .
Last week I had prepared the foam -board., staring with the marking out and then cutting out the widows as I showed. Now was the turn of some heat, no no I didn't set fire to anything before someone asks.:smiling2:
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tools required.
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The first thing to do was play the hair dryer over the foam, about 100 mm is bast as any lower can melt if you stay in one place too long.Once warmed I took one of the knives and slipped in in under a corner and whilst still warm and playing the dryer on I moved the knife along the board, just under the paper.
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The wider the blade seems to be the best option, as soon as resistance is felt a quick wave of the dryer breaks the glue line.
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With a little care you can remove the complete paper front in one go , it doesn't matter if it tears, just slipe the knife under carefully and continue.
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This photo shows the two boards that are being used to make up the front, in the past I would have used 10mm board, but not having much in stock I decided to use the 5mm . Now joining then together with the paper face on the inside has actually produced a stronger board, normally the 10mm devoid of paper can flex and start to bow.
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The first thing was to rough up the surface of the paper, I used a 200 grit foam pad. Just enough roughage to allow the PVA to bite. Once this was done the two boards were taped together and weights put on top .
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Given a couple of days to fully dry I set too and started the brick work on the end and on the internal faces. Using a scribe the brick pattern was done fairly quickly, doing the horizontal lines first and then the longer process of marking out the courses of bricks. Mine are not spot on as the thickness should be 2.83 odd mm in scale, and taking the width of the scribe point which is slightly over size, so I cheat and eye ball it :surprised::surprised::surprised:
Once that was all done including the front face of the building I applied a coat of wall filler in a random way. This will be the blown plaster suffering bomb damage, on the front I have marked the stone banking sets, removing some of these with a scalpel blade , taking about .5 mm off , then I scribed the underlying brick work.
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The front here is shown from the rear, so only plaster and the brick.
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The above photo shows the internal section of wall with a door way, the , once the filler has dried a very gentle (mask on time ) sanding to take it back to a uniform thickness. Additional layers may be needed to tidy the job up , but you can see the idea. Although a lot of the brick scribing ends up covered it's easier to do it this way. I've tried the filler with out the brick work before and then attempting to get the brick lines in is harder. Either way this part is time consuming, but the results are worth it.
All drying now, earlier I had used my new Tamiya pin vise and some new .4 mm drill bits to clean out 200 odd Fruili tracks, wish I'd had bought that Tamiya pin-vise before, so much better and more precise having 4 differing collets.
Right that it, thanks for looking in, I 'am off for some tea.
John.Comment
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Good to see you back at it buddy. It clears the head and keeps us wanting to see more of your fine work. Oh, and I love your sexy hairdryer there too, Dude 2...
Prost
Dude 1Life's to short to be a sheep...Comment
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Hi John
Looking good. Good progress. Lots of really useful tips on using this board.
So glad that Jack is going to be ok.
JimComment
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WOW John that is super COOOL... love it...i could have done my diorama with this idea... for the next one... I'm really looking forward to see more...Comment
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John
Great work looking natural already.Comment
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At it with the foam again are we ? - me too - great work mate :thumb2: - taking shape graduallyComment
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