The Calm Before the Storm.

[Guest]

That looks awesome Ty. Love to see more of these works of art!

[Tyrel]

Thank you.

It would appear I'm too late to edit my first post so I'll put my narrative for the diorama here. My apologies for not getting it in sooner.

Diorama represents the pre-incursion of a Polish village during late Spring 1940. Although Poland was defeated the previous fall, occupation enforcement and partisan hunting was still an ongoing process. After the invasion of Poland the limits of the Panzer I were quite apparent and it soon began its phase out process to be modified for other roles (Ammo Haulers, Ambulance, Flakpanzer etc.) as well as being used as more of a security and policing type vehicle. I also tried to represent the two different styles of tunics that were in use during that time that were most easily identified by the earlier having the dark collars and the newer having the same color as the rest of the tunic.





The Dragon Panzer I was painted with various shades of Tamiya gray and has a blue filter treatment. On-board equipment was painted with Vallejo acrylics. Artists oils were used for washes and dry brushing. Figures are a mixture of Dragon and MiniArt and were painted with Vallejo acrylics. Artists oils were used for faces and hands.



The Bronco Adler Armoured Car was painted with various shades of Tamiya gray and has a blue filter treatment. Some of the interior items were added from the spares box. On-board equipment was painted with Vallejo acrylics. Artists oils were used for washes and dry brushing. Figures are a mixture of Dragon and MiniArt and were painted with Vallejo acrylics. Artists oils were used for faces and hands.

[Tyrel]

Beautiful work, Tyrel! Such a lot of work's gone into this and your figure work is superb. I've always wondered if figure modellers fill the joins where limbs join the torso, or whether they're sanded for a tight fit and a line left to depict the seam of the clothing?

Thanks AJay. I usually sand for a tight fit and leave a line to depict a seam. Sometimes figures don't want to cooperate to sanding and a little filling is also required. One important thing I did learn when starting to paint camouflage clothing is to remember where the cut seams are on a garment and to avoid having a camo pattern overlap onto an adjacent panel of cloth. Here are some examples where, if you look at where the sleeve panels meet the torso cloth the camo patterns do not overlap panels of cloth

[geegad]

That is beautiful bud the detail that you've put into all the figures and afv is amazing how long did it all take you??

You should be proud of this work it's a feast for the eyes

Geegad

John

[Guest]

Another great dio Tyrel , figures look 1st class

Richy

[Guest]

Oh dear, this is all just too good isn't it. Superb work on everything and it would be hopeless to try and point out best bits. I like the fact that you mention the need to differ the colours for uniforms. It is amazing how modellers will readily do this on vehicles but then paint all their figures from the same pot, I am soooo guilty of this.

The best bit is though that all these individual parts are so strong in isolation but put them all together in a really well composed scene and it just jumps off the screen. Excellent work and something to aspire to.

I mean, just look at the guy with the telephone in the last pic! And the other two really are talking to each other just superb.

[Guest]

Looks brill!, the faces are awsome.

What colour did you do the vehicles in?

[Guest]

Simply 5*, no question

[Tyrel]

Oh dear, this is all just too good isn't it. Superb work on everything and it would be hopeless to try and point out best bits. I like the fact that you mention the need to differ the colours for uniforms. It is amazing how modellers will readily do this on vehicles but then paint all their figures from the same pot, I am soooo guilty of this.The best bit is though that all these individual parts are so strong in isolation but put them all together in a really well composed scene and it just jumps off the screen. Excellent work and something to aspire to.

I mean, just look at the guy with the telephone in the last pic! And the other two really are talking to each other just superb.

Thanks Graham. Much appreciated. I used to be a single colour guy when it came to uniforms as well. I figured Field Grey was Field Grey and Uniform Green was Uniform Green. But then realized that they will lighten with age and wear. So for some of the uniforms I will add a drop or two of buff tp the green or grey so that some uniforms look older than others. Filters, washes and dry brushing can really fade a colour as well.

Anyway, thanks for having a look and cheers to ya!

[Tyrel]

Looks brill!, the faces are awsome.What colour did you do the vehicles in?

Thank you. Both the Panzer I and Adler were primed with NATO Black. The Panzer I was sprayed with a 70 % German Grey & 30 % Neutral grey mix. Then all structure and panel edges were sprayed with a 70 % German grey & 30 % NATO Black mix. Then the center of panels and superstructure armour was sprayed with 70 % Neutral grey & 30 % buff. Then the whole tank was sprayed again with the original 70 % German Grey & 30 % Neutral grey mix but greatly thinned. I'm not sure of the exact ratio but 10 parts thinner to 1 part paint is pretty close. I think I ended up going to a 7:1 to tie some the shades together.

The Adler exterior followed the same process except the original spray was 60 % German Grey 30 % Neutral grey and 10 % Medium Blue. This was to change the tone of the colour when compared to the Panzer I.

Both vehicles got a MIG blue filter treatment as well with the Adler getting more than 3 times the treatments.

Selective pin washes and dry brushing were then used to bring out highlights.

Hope this helps.

Cheers!

[Tyrel]

Simply 5*, no question

Thanks Andy. Next up a sandbag armoured Sherman dio with lots of other extras. (Could be my first winter dio)

Cheers!

[Guest]

Ill soon be getting myself some of the Miniart items.

What i am thinking of doing is the Riverbank Dio , but i want to place this so the steps actually go down into water etc, still lots to plan though!

But as you have used Miniart to great effect have you ever used the one called Riverbank? from what i can tell the raised part does not have a back or any sides, thats really poor in my opinion but the sides can be made (Foamcore?) but asking you as you seem to know Miniart and may have this specific kit.

[Tyrel]

Ill soon be getting myself some of the Miniart items. What i am thinking of doing is the Riverbank Dio , but i want to place this so the steps actually go down into water etc, still lots to plan though!

But as you have used Miniart to great effect have you ever used the one called Riverbank? from what i can tell the raised part does not have a back or any sides, thats really poor in my opinion but the sides can be made (Foamcore?) but asking you as you seem to know Miniart and may have this specific kit.

I think this is the kit you mean. I don't have it but have seen pics of how it's assembled. You are correct in that there are no sides or backing to the kit, which I agree kinda sucks. If you can find I would use the kind of foam board that's made for home insulation. It's much more dense and will provide a more solid base. If you can't find it though regular Styrofoam will probably be ok as the following pic shows.

Hope this helps

Cheers.

[Guest]

Thankyou!

I cant understand why they cant add at least two pieces of plastic for the sides, but anyways i have some foam laying around so ill use this if i do get this particular kit.

I didnt realise there was so much work involved on the Miniart kits, i have just seen there tutorials on the site, darn thats alot of work so why they so expensive lol.

Thankyou again.

[Centurion3RTR]

Now that is a nice build and a delight to look at Ty, very nice work bud.

Have fun, John