Wardell Bridge

[papa 695]

First of all welcome to the forum Peter, and what a ambitious and interesting project to start with.

[Peter]

Thank you Colin and Ian for your encouraging words.

Just got back from having dinner with friends. I'll try now to catch up with the down loads.

Here are the vessel traffic lights, one set at either side of span. I used the same type of LED assemblies used for the blown fuse indicators in post #13. These wires have also been routed to enter through the hut floor.

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The external equipment for operating the span is stored on the balcony areas. I used wooden blocks to simulate the boxed areas seen on the real bridge.
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Here is the hut plan and using 3 mm MDF board for the walls and roof. I used 2 mm perspex for the windows. The window frame and doors is from Bainbridge board. The doors are just drawn on.
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The gangway railings are made from matchsticks and bamboo skewers. The wire screen is nylon fly-screen.
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Here is the painted span. The laptop computer shows what the real hut looks like.
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The span woodwork is now finished and painted. The road and footpath railings have also been included. The base structure is also painted. I found some small narrow washers that fit perfectly over the navigational LEDs. They now look like light bezels/beacons. The road section will get painted when I paint the rest of the bridge road.
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[Peter]

The bridge towers were next. The 30 cm rule gives an indication of its size. The longer leg portions is the side, with the footpath, which goes into the bridge girders. The shorter ones only penetrate the road base which overhangs the girder. I used many dowels for this part of the towers.

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Here is how I installed the dowels. They are a snug fit and requires a block of wood to push them in. I used PVC glue.
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It doesn't look it, but I used just over 11 m of square wooden slats (Tasmanian Oak) for the towers.
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[Peter]

Now was the time to make the pulley wheel brackets for the top of the towers. I used aluminium plate.

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After both sides were cut and filed, it was time to assemble them. The axle bolts were trimmed . The pulley wheels were already made, as shown in post #9.
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Here, they have been mounted onto the towers.
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These photos only has the towers resting in place to show how it would look assembled.
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[Peter]

Now a gangway was needed on top of the towers.
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Completed and painted. The only part not painted are the pulley wheels. Actually, I had a bit of trouble securing two of the wheels without them binding onto the washers. The clamping down of the brackets would twist the bracket onto the axle. Some filing of the bracket holes, for better alignment, alleviated the problem.
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[Peter]

It was time to put in the roads, but first I had to make the traffic lights, and install the wiring. I could not find LED traffic lights of similar size to the ones I used on the span. So I had to make my own. I used a strip of wood which looked and behaved similar to bamboo. My first few attempts to drill the holes for the LEDs failed. Then I found the correct way to go about it. The sides of the light box is from card. This not only keeps the box thin in appearance but also easy to access if future repairs are needed. The LEDs used are 5 mm in diametre. Bottom right photo only shows how it would look on the bridge.

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[Peter]

Before assembling the towers into place, I realized that the span would not be able to be removed for any repairs. Both the bumper rollers and the pulley wheel overhang restricts removal. So I decided to replace two of the lateral bumper rollers with a detachable design. Now the the span can be removed laterally (sideways).

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Here I am building the road and footpath surfaces. I used 3 mm Masonite. There are about 280 holes drilled to railing posts.
The traffic lights were installed. All the bridge wiring had to be routed along the girders and down through the table top. The road surface also had holes and square sections cut out to accommodate the travel of the pulley cables, gate servo axles, and anchoring of the towers.
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Now it was time for installing the railings. Over 35 split skewers, for railings, were needed. Each matchstick was squared level to the table and not to the curvature of the road. Four days later I got it all done. The gaps you see, near the traffic lights, are for the swing gates. I am still waiting for some brass tubing to arrive.

Where I live, Ballina and nearby towns, all the hobby shops have closed down. To get brass tubing and the like, I have to use the Internet to purchase from overseas. It can take over a month to get some things.
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[Peter]

At last, my last post to where I am at at the moment.

Here I tipped up the table to access the bottom of the display. I gave it an undercoat of acrylic paint.
The white cards you see are placed over the holes for the fender piers. So when I install them they will all be at the same height.

Terminal strips were put in place to terminate all the wires that came through the table. Then I made several flat brackets, painted them white, and used them to flatten the wiring harness. This makes following the wires much easier. The wire ends will eventually go into the (under the table) control box.
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This is where I am at now. Thank you so much for your patience and persistence to read up to this point.
I will update my progress about 1-2 times per week.

[Guest]

Wow! Impressive project, and looks like it's going to look amazing in situ. Good work indeed!

[Snowman]

Simply amazing!!
What a project!!

[grumpa]

This goes far beyond just model building, engineering , mechanical, electrical....it's all there...BRAVO!.....Jim

[Ian M]

That is beyond words! Great work.

[monica]

amazing work,Peter,Impressive project,loving your detail,and work,

[tanktrack]

fantastic

[Peter]

Wow, what a lot of 'pats on the back'.
Thank you John, Gavin, Jim, Ian, Monica, and Steve.

To tell you the truth, I am apprehensive yet confident at the same time. But simply, my goal is to make it work; and to work for a long time.

Part of my apprehension comes from when I was a teenager who wanted to build a moving sculpture. I remember becoming crestfallen when I read from a famous artist 'that a sculpture should not be made to move'. The reason was that if it stops moving its purpose ceases, and if it cannot be repaired it becomes useless. Then many years later I heard a counter quote from an artist who said 'that a piece of art is not complete if it cannot stand on its own'. The reason was that it should not have to rely on a frame, on a light setting, or movement, etc.

The other part, is my confidence. This simply comes from a belief I picked up from a Star Trek episode. "Nothing is impossible. It only seems impossible because we don't yet understand how it could be possible". Or something along those lines. So the word 'impossible' is not in my vocabulary. So when somebody says it is too difficult, or impossible, I suddenly think I am talking to a stranger.

However, I have also learnt to not worry about the results. Focus on the process and the results will take care of itself.

I am hoping to create an interesting diorama so that the display can stand on its own (without power to it). This is where I know I will be relying heavily on the forum members. I am hoping you will be able to give me advice and suggestions when it comes to the landscaping, etc. you all have the experience, where I don't. However I have to warn you, I can be stubborn in my ways, so please don't get upset if I don't follow somebodies suggestions.

Thank you for your support.