Trumpeter .Ch tz s65 Tractor Diorama

[JR]

Photos.
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Above you will notice the shine from a coat of pva, just to seal the first coat and assist the following one.

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Above is the white thicker filler around the tank, hence the clingfilm.
Now for the reeds.
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The Tamiya tape has been removed, the pva having set over night. those smaller clumps at the front R/H side are the left overs from the trimming, having the adhesive from the brush added to .Theses will represent new growth .
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The last 3 photos are showing the BULRUSH head.
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By adding small amounts of PVA I can build up the stem
The last photo above the real reed is am attempt an using very thin copper wire, and using the same method.
They would take a lot longer, having to be primed as well , so my not continue, but worth a try. I pleased with the reeds, looking fwd to placing them on the dio.

Thanks for looking in, comments welcome.
John.

[spanner570]

Nice work G. C.
Good to see a kindred spirit using their imagination and raiding Poundshops etc. for gear.
I get immense satisfaction and fun out of making my own stuff..... as I suspect you do too, good buddy!

[JR]

Nice work G. C.
Good to see a kindred spirit using their imagination and raiding Poundshops etc. for gear.
I get immense satisfaction and fun out of making my own stuff..... as I suspect you do too, good buddy!

Thanks Ron.
Yes the paint used on the reed was cheap artists acrylic, just dry brushed. The brush was from as I said Wilko. The dry lining material from the cave job.
I've saw
this . at £11. 96 plus shipping . think the Wiko brush was about a £5,and looks exactly the same material . Its the challenge. :smiling4:


Ive coated a section of spare foam with some dry lining adhesive. When its dry I'll seal with a mat varnish, then colour. Going to create the water with several thin coats of gloss varnish and then use a gloss medium todot the movement. I' ve read loads on resin water ,the for and against, also the acrylic ones. Just want to try this, saw it on an American railroad site and it looked good.
John .

[Fernando N]

Missed a bit of late, the little tank looks great with the tracks and bling John.:thumb2:
Very nice scratchery, what did you use for the tap, solder?
Great start on the base , with some nice bulrushes too, looking forward to see how they end up.:smiling:

[Steve O]

All is looking great John i love the tracked crawler it's coming on a treat, i will stay tuned if that's ok.

Steve.

[scottie3158]

John,
Seriously nice work very imaginative. It just shows you don't need to spend a fortune on after market stuff. I always have my eyes open and a bag when I'm out with the hound.

[Mickc1440]

More great progress John, going to be a cracker this one

[spanner570]

John, I've always used just gloss varnish - nothing else, for 'water surfaces'.

Don't be conned into thinking you need modeller's varnish for this sort of application. Just use ordinary household stuff from Wilco (other retailers are available......:rolling

Thin the first coat. Put plenty on and leave it alone! It will find its own level.

An easy way to produce a bit of surface movement is to wait until the last coat of water surface is tacky (gently touch the surface with your finger) Then with a dry brush just stroke and dab the varnish. This produces a matt surface, just like a bit of wind coming across the water making small ripples.
I hope this is of some help.

Ron

[JR]

Missed a bit of late, the little tank looks great with the tracks and bling John.:thumb2:
Very nice scratchery, what did you use for the tap, solder?
Great start on the base , with some nice bulrushes too, looking forward to see how they end up.:smiling:

Fernando I think it was , certainly for the tap spout itself, the handle was a short section of copper wire.
John .

[Jim R]

Hi John
Great work on the base. Love those reeds and the bullrushes.
Jim

[JR]

Steve..... Thanks mate and your more than welcome.
Paul........ There are times when that gives the best results.
Mick .... Hi, this is the part I really enjoy.
Jim..... Had to edit you in :thumb2: Hope when I paint the heads the paint stays on.:surprised:
John .

[JR]

John, I've always used just gloss varnish - nothing else, for 'water surfaces'.

Don't be conned into thinking you need modeller's varnish for this sort of application. Just use ordinary household stuff from Wilco (other retailers are available......:rolling

Thin the first coat. Put plenty on and leave it alone! It will find its own level.

An easy way to produce a bit of surface movement is to wait until the last coat of water surface is tacky (gently touch the surface with your finger) Then with a dry brush just stroke and dab the varnish. This produces a matt surface, just like a bit of wind coming across the water making small ripples.
I hope this is of some help.

Ron

Ron.
I take it you colored the base first with the paints , the darker to give depth then lighter for the shallow areas, finishing with the varnish ?
Yes it will be Wilkos own again.
Any tips mate would be gratefully received
John .

[spanner570]

Ron.
I take it you colored the base first with the paints , the darker to give depth then lighter for the shallow areas, finishing with the varnish ?
John .

Spot on John.
To help illustrate the process, here are two pictures of a stage build of a set of salmon steps for a diorama I made. The paint was applied direct to the polystyrene base. Hence the rippled surface to the water. Then I applied just two coats of ordinary varnish. As I mentioned in a previous post, you can get the same sort of texture by dabbing and dragging the tacky varnish with a dry paint brush.

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And yes, the darker the paint the deeper the water. The process is very straight forward and a darn sight easier than that awful resin stuff, which can crack, lift at the edges, go milky etc...... Keep it simple - It's more fun that way!

Ron

[Si Benson]

Very interesting watching all this diorama business...taking plenty of notes.
Si

[JR]

Ron.
Nice one , looks just the thing I was hoping to achieve, thank you. PM sent.

Si ...... Wondered where you were, well I hope.

Its a slow old thing, I've put another dob of glue on the reed heads, this time used a cocktail stick. Look good until an hr later its dried clear. When I paint the head it will suddenly take shape.
Figures have had the filler sanded down, only due to using arms from 4 differing sets , and the Tank crew a black primer.

Must get the varnish from Wilko tomorrow. ( Other shops do sell other makes ):smiling4:
John .