I've stalled a bit on the road surface - seems that no matter what I try, it just breaks up (reminds me of the roads about here) - think that I'm going to have to strip it right off and start it all over again from the start. It's got the latest attempt drying out, and if that doesn't work, will be 'cutting my losses', stripping it off, crumbling any lumps and starting from scratch - all included in the learning process!
Meanwhile, somewhere in Europe
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Hopefully I'll be able to learn the 'varnish and clear mastic' method, rather than using resin, as it's a 'mountain stream', so will need some white/still/flowing water. Got about half a tin of interior varnish, (but can't remember if it's a satin finish - but also got about half a litre plus of yacht varnish, which might work - bought that to do a trailer) plus about a tube and a half of clear mastic (again, bought for the trailer)Comment
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It's just so frustrating to think that I've finally figured it out, only for it to crumble the next time I touch it to try to do the next stage/tidy it up. Though to be fair, it's the first time that I've tried using this stuff, so a steep learning curve.Comment
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Gerry,
Just caught up to your build, and that is really impressive. Good old Hy-Cote primer sorts out all the faults and makes them obvious. Have a look at Delux Products (deluxmaterials.co.uk) for your water needs. And for your groundwork try ChinChilla sand from ebay, a lot finer than sand.
Looking forward to more.
Mike.Comment
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Gerry,
Just caught up to your build, and that is really impressive. Good old Hy-Cote primer sorts out all the faults and makes them obvious. Have a look at Delux Products (deluxmaterials.co.uk) for your water needs. And for your groundwork try ChinChilla sand from ebay, a lot finer than sand.
Looking forward to more.
Mike.
Oak bark is 'good' for slabs of sedimentary rock that have broken off a cliff face, old weathered wood gives the 'seams' of sedimentary formations (and if 'lucky' it's just breaking down in the squares, giving even more 'weathered' appearance), and a bent bit will give a better effect than a straight bit will. Cork gives great 'igneous' rocks, as there's no grain to show through. Will say that it's best to give it a good spray of fly spray or similar to kill off any bugs that might be in it before taking it indoors though!
Oh, I'll sort the road - eventually! Don't think that I've ever let something like this 'beat' me (think that I must be stubborn!:tears-of-joy::thinkingComment
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Might try that Richard - though checking what I did last night, I might have solved it - made a very wet 'paste' of PVA/water and ground which could be poured - almost 'self-levelling concrete' style, but still got to see if I can do anything to the finish.Comment
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Cheers,
RichardComment
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Prefer my scotch neat, (maybe with a little water) but then, it's usually single malt
Thanks, just pulling my hair out about this road - got attempt number 4 drying at the moment (a lot thinner layer this time) if this doesn't work, then it'll be back to the sandpaper method of 'roadmaking'!Comment
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Forgot to mention that you may need to score or roughen the surface before application for a grip as PVA shrinks. As long as the PVA ratio is enough to bond the sand then the problem of it disintegrating would lessen. Also with PVA you will need to apply in thinner layers so that it won't crack unlike concrete.
Cheers,
RichardComment
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