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Scale Model Shop
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29-31 Hampton Street. London's East End....Sept. 1940.
Hi Ron
That looks bloody marvellous. I do hope the families get to have a nice Christmas Day, well at least as nice as they can in the second year of war. I would hate to think of the children having their meagre few pressies destroyed by the wicked Hun.
Jim
Hi
this is looking really good, especially great brickwork.
One thought, I am sure a builder amongst us can confirm if i am right or wrong, but I think the wooden rafters are going the wrong way. i think they should run from the top of the roof down to the gutter rather than across the roof. In this way the battons onto which the tiles or slates are fixed run horizontally, one batton per row of tiles, onto the rafters; obviously not important apart from where the roof is damaged.
I’m sure Ron knows his onions on this stuff Peter, and he’s called them purlins….rafters run vertically on the purlins, and battens horizontally on the rafters….purlins are sometimes propped to the floor of the loft. They are designed to spread the roof load, including a covering of snow. These look just like the roof on my old terrace, which had huge purlins at about 12 x 8 complete with props from the middle onto the load bearing walls underneath
I've glued the ceiling joists to random bits of card and marked out some basic lath and plaster markings using a pencil....and added a couple of loft hatch openings.
I have also temporarily replaced the four purlins. Luckily the main roof ridge board won't be seen, so I'm excused having to make the spar top cut.
Very basic lath and plaster. not really required, but I thought I'd have a bit of a play.....
Purlins slotted back in for now.
Yet another quick tip courtesy of my late dad...
When cutting multiple thin lengths of timber from balsa sheet, mark one face with a pencil or you could use paint. ( Although this could warp the sheet) Don't use felt tip, Then cut your 'Spars' This method ensures that no matter how inconsistent your cuts, by placing the marked faces upwards, it at least guarantees you will have a flat and consistent spar thickness.
I don't like using balsa on a small scale model, the grain is too 'big and pronounced', but I just didn't fancy cutting up hard coffee stirrers for the thin timbers of the roof etc.
Next, I will add the chimernys, trim the joists where required, fix the purlins, add the hangers etc. and then spar out the roofs leaving spaces for the roof lights.
Hi Ron
Definitely building up now. All this talk of purlins, joists, hangers, spars, lathes etc can get very confusing for those of us whose only experience of building and builders is to look one up in Yellow Pages (does that exist any more??). Looking forward to the destruction. I understand bash it, crush it, wreck it and general mayhem.
Jim
Sorry Jim. I was forgetting not all old farts are retired joiners! :upside:
Floor joists are wot the floor boards and ceiling bits are nailed to.
Ceiling joists are wot the top floor ceiling is fastened to and are embedded into the brickwork or fixed to the wall plate, which is a lump of 4"x 3" running along the top course of brickwork. The roof spars are also fixed to the wall plate. To each spar is cut a Bird's mouth' or 'nick' as it was usually called. This was a small wedge shape cut into the lower edge of the spar and sat nice and comfortably on the wall plate's outer top edge.
A 6" or 8" x 1" ridge board runs along the top of the roof line and to these are fixed the top of the spars / rafters.
Lath and plaster, which was and still are, thin wooden 'laths' about 2" x 1/4" nailed across the underside of joists, about 1/4" apart. The ceiling plaster was applied and it worked itself between the gaps in the laths to go hard and give a good grip.
Purlins are those big lumps of timber running from gable to gable (or supporting internal walls) To these are nailed the roof timbers (rafters or spars). Sometimes, and if thought necessary due to too long an unsupported span, the purlins themselves might be supported on their undersides by either timber or brick supports onto a supporting wall.
Hangers are usually 4"x 1" vertical timbers nailed to the face of the purlins and 'tother end hanging down and nailed to runners. These runners are nailed across all the top floor ceiling joists. The hangers are nailed to these at 4ft intervals. When fixed they prevent any sagging of the ceiling.
If the distance from support to support for the spars / rafters is too long, 4"x 1" horizontal spreaders are nailed across the roof spars/rafters, from one side of the roof to the other, usually above the top purlin. This measure prevents any possible 'Sagging' of the finished roof, particularly along the ridge line.
There are loads of other bits, but the above are the basics....
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