Small scale figure Step by step (SBS). A 1/48 freebie Paul Hicks sculpt is the victim.

[Jim R]

Very interesting Tim. I look forward to picking up some tips. One question - "Just what exactly is White Metal"?

[The Smythe Meister]

Just seen this Tim!!
I'm obviously in... Looking forward to learning lots

[stillp]

Very interesting Tim. I look forward to picking up some tips. One question - "Just what exactly is White Metal"?

From Wikipedia:
The white metals are a series of often decorative bright metal alloys used as a base for plated silverware, ornaments or novelties, as well as any of several lead-based or tin-based alloys used for things like bearings, jewellery, miniature figures, fusible plugs, some medals and metal type.[1] The term is also used in the antiques trade for an item suspected of being silver, but not hallmarked.

A white metal alloy may include antimony, tin, lead, cadmium, bismuth, and zinc (some of which are quite toxic). Not all of these metals are found in all white metal alloys. Metals are mixed to achieve a desired goal or need. As an example, a base metal for jewellery needs to be castable, polishable, have good flow characteristics, have the ability to cast fine detail without an excessive amount of porosity and cast at between 230 and 300 °C (446 and 572 °F)

[Tim Marlow]

Very interesting Tim. I look forward to picking up some tips. One question - "Just what exactly is White Metal"?

In this case it’s pewter Jim. There are lots of metal mixes called white metal, usually sourced from the jewellery trade. They are very like solder to handle, and can be assembled using it if you are careful. Older figures had lead content in the mix, which made them a bit softer. That’s not allowed in some markets, so most are now a pewter lead free type mix.

Its chosen for this application because the metal has a low melting point due to its eutectic, and expands slightly on freezing (like water) so it takes detail better.

[BattleshipBob]

Not my bag Tim, but good of you to post for others to learn

[Tim Marlow]

Just seen this Tim!!
I'm obviously in... Looking forward to learning lots :smiling3:

Most of it is pretty much general knowledge Andy, it’s just the way I throw them together that might entertain……

[Tim Marlow]

From Wikipedia:
The white metals are a series of often decorative bright metal alloys used as a base for plated silverware, ornaments or novelties, as well as any of several lead-based or tin-based alloys used for things like bearings, jewellery, miniature figures, fusible plugs, some medals and metal type.[1] The term is also used in the antiques trade for an item suspected of being silver, but not hallmarked.

A white metal alloy may include antimony, tin, lead, cadmium, bismuth, and zinc (some of which are quite toxic). Not all of these metals are found in all white metal alloys. Metals are mixed to achieve a desired goal or need. As an example, a base metal for jewellery needs to be castable, polishable, have good flow characteristics, have the ability to cast fine detail without an excessive amount of porosity and cast at between 230 and 300 °C (446 and 572 °F)

Never thought of looking there…..I just went by memory……cheers Pete :thumb2:

[Tim Marlow]

Not my bag Tim, but good of you to post for others to learn

Cheers Bob.
My main goal here is to show there’s nothing to be scared of when painting small scale figures. Figures seem to daunt a lot of people, but it’s really just application of a few principles, developing some brush control, and thinking ahead. You wont get the smarts to produce the superb one off art figures you see on here, but should gain the confidence to tackle figures for things like 1/35 dioramas and be happy with the results.

[PaulinKendal]

Just found this - I'm in, it's definitely my bag!

One thing not mentioned yet is how malleable white metal is. On my freebooters I was constantly bending their swords (accidentally), then bending them back into position (on purpose).

In the end stuff will fracture and drop off, but I was amazed at how forgiving the white metal was - both swords stayed whole and even the paint stayed stuck to them, despite all the manipulation.

[Tim Marlow]

Just found this - I'm in, it's definitely my bag!

One thing not mentioned yet is how malleable white metal is. On my freebooters I was constantly bending their swords (accidentally), then bending them back into position (on purpose).

In the end stuff will fracture and drop off, but I was amazed at how forgiving the white metal was - both swords stayed whole and even the paint stayed stuck to them, despite all the manipulation.

Yep, missed that. Best way is bending slowly though, minimises the chance of fracture. Some white metals are harder and more brittle than others though, so be aware. Don’t think warming it up is the way to go either, get it too warm and you have a silver puddle…..

Didn’t mention filling or assembly either. This guy is one piece, so didn’t need any.

If you need to assemble white metal, then two part epoxy is best in my opinion, especially if the piece is to be handled. Parts can be heavy, so support will be needed as it dries. If the part is large then CA can be used to “pin“ the part in place on some of the join, while the epoxy dries on the rest. For filling, then normal fillers will suit, but big gaps might need milliput.

[Tim Marlow]

OK, priming…….
On this guy I’m using Zenitel priming.

After clean up, and a good wash to get off finger grease and filings etc, he got a coat of all over black primer…


The primer I used was Vallejo 74602 polyurethane black primer. It goes on well once you add a little flow aid, but I haven’t got it to sand well so only use it for figures. Basically I’m a cheap skate. I have a big bottle and I’m going to use it one way or another

When this is dry I give him the first Zenitel coat. This is a mid grey, applied from above at about a 45 degree angle.

As you can see, this is starting to bring out the detail. However, looking from underneath…..

….he’s still black…..

To do this I just used a mid grey Vallejo air colour paint, again with a little added flow aid so it sprays without tip drying. I then flush the brush with water, then load it with Vallejo air colour white for the last stage.

The white is applied from directly above the figure, and gives us this….


Which looks like this from the side (sorry about the blur…..)


Look from below though, and he’s still black…..


Let him dry overnight, and he’s ready for paint.

I don’t really do this so I can use the shading, I just do it so I can see the detail. I used to give the figures a black wash to do this, but when you are preparing around ten at a time, as I do, the airbrush is much quicker.

Next bit will be a quick talk about brushes and painting tools, such as they are, then we will be throwing paint around, so stick with it…..

[Tim Marlow]

Just realised, he’s still in the same state, so here’s a better shot than the blurry one…..

The old Tamiya pot has blue tack on it and is used to hold him while painting. Holding the figure itself is a bad idea. It can put grease on the surface, which water based acrylic paint doesn’t like, and it can also rub off the paint.

[adt70hk]

Cheers Bob.
My main goal here is to show there’s nothing to be scared of when painting small scale figures. Figures seem to daunt a lot of people, but it’s really just application of a few principles, developing some brush control, and thinking ahead. You wont get the smarts to produce the superb one off art figures you see on here, but should gain the confidence to tackle figures for things like 1/35 dioramas and be happy with the results.

And you have done that in spades for me, so thanks again!!!!

[JayCee]

Very good SBS, Tim. One can never have too much information. Especially when it is from someone as skilled as yourself.
John.

[Tim Marlow]

Very good SBS, Tim. One can never have too much information. Especially when it is from someone as skilled as yourself.
John.

No probs John. It’s all from time served rather than innate ability, so anyone should be able to do it……at any time if I haven’t been clear, or missed something out, just shout and I’ll try again.