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1:16 Figure Head Painting by Ray

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  • Guest

    #1

    1:16 Figure Head Painting by Ray

    As I have a few days off from work thought I would start a tutorial on face painting, This will be done in oils and I hope maybe of use to you.

    I will split this tutorial over a few phases and try my best to show you how I do it. I would like to make this a Q&A blog also, and try and get as many members involved with their questions tips and such like, it would also be nice to see your work either those following this tutorial or faces you guys have already done.

    Okay Phase one, the set up:

    The ingredients for this are very simple, as the pic shows.

    Okay the head for this will be a Dragon 1:16 Head.

    So lets now prep our head, give it a wash, and a rub over with a polishing nail board, then a final wash with ISO, dont wipe it dry just let it dry by itself, this way we dont get any fibres or threads stuck to it.

    We now will pre-prime the face with a very light pass of Tamiya Flat Flesh XF-15, Then when its dried we make a further 2 light passes to get the base colour down.I prefer a ratio mix of 60% thinner to 40% paint, that way we wont over spray it and loose any detail.

    Now when thats dry, we need to give it another smooth surface for the oil paints, so I do a light spray of satin varnish,this not only creates a smooth surface but also seals the base colour. So any accidents can be lightly wiped off.

    Now its time to try and add some life to our face, Im going to use Vallejo off white 820 to the add the white of the eyes, this does not have to be exact, as any over spill of the white will be painted around to even the look off, more on that later.

    Our head should look like this now.

    Now when thats dry with a fine brush point we need to add some pupils, Im useing Vallejo Burnt Umber 941, now if your head has no pupil marks in the eye socket, I tend to make the eyes look to the right, this then prevents trying to get the perfect straight forward look and stops the face looking bog eyed.

    Once again dont worry if you go outside the eye socket, just try and get the pupils evenish.

    Time to add the oil paint base colour now and define the eye sockets, we will need 3 blobs of oil paint, Burnt Sienna,Titanium White and yellow Ochre, there is no exact mix or quantities here, see the pic for an idea of what you will need.

    Now lets blend these colours together, it will be a dark mix, but we need it to be so we can lighten and mix various shades for the face later on.We now take a blob or 2 of our base mix, and add a touch more white.Mix until your happy with the colour tone.

    Lets now start on painting around the eye socket and getting those eyes to look acceptable, have with you at this stage some thinners, I use white spirit, now dip your brush in the thinners get rid of the excess, and mix your brush in the lighter base mix.

    Now try and even the eyes up, by light strokes around the eye socket, and dab around the eye section to create, what looks like a mask. Dont put to much oil paint on here just a nice coat so you can see the difference between the mix and prime colour.

    Now go do something else, then come back with fresh eyes and see if the eyes look even, and your happy with your work. Oil paints stay wet for yonks, so dont worry about them drying, I have left my mix overnight with no problems.

    Now take a dab of the original dark flesh mix,and mix it into the mix you used for the eye mask, blend that together with a touch of thinners, and we are now ready to move on.

    Okay take your brush and dab around the lighter mix with the darker mix, try and go upto the line of the lighter mix and not over it.The finer the brush is the easy this is, as you wont be able to push to much paint with a fine brush.

    Again dab your brush in thinners and remove the excess and with a light stabbing motion, blend the two tones, this is where the two different tones meet together, just light dabs where one colour meets the next, clean your brush, dab again in thinners, and blend the colours so you cant see where one starts or finishes. And when complete it should look something like this.

    So when your happy with it at this stage just place it some where dust free,then we can move on to adding depth, colour tone and shadow, with the ingredients shown above.

    I hope this helps get you started and gives you time to practice before we do the next installment.Thanks for reading.

    Ray
  • tr1ckey66
    SMF Supporters
    • Mar 2009
    • 3592

    #2
    Hi Ray

    Really good tutorial here. I'm posting a pic below of a 1/16 Dragon figure (almost complete) I did some time back, not because I think it's any good but as an 'oils vs acrylics' example. It's obvious from your example that oils give much more graduated tones and feathering is much easier, with acrylics the effect seems to be a lot more impressionistic - oils are the way to go.

    Keep up the great work with the tutorial

    Cheers

    Paul

    [ATTACH]21135.vB[/ATTACH]

    [ATTACH]28131.IPB[/ATTACH]

    Attached Files

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    • Guest

      #3
      Thanks for joining in Paul, thats a well painted figure, top job there.

      Comment

      • Guest

        #4
        I`m in on this one Ray , the head looks good already mate

        Richy

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        • Guest

          #5
          Thanks Richy, glad to have you aboard.

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          • yak face
            Moderator
            • Jun 2009
            • 13826
            • Tony
            • Sheffield

            #6
            Hi ray, you are a star mate, this is exactly what i need , an idiot proof guide! Ive got the lilya litvyak figure in 1/35 and ive been really struggling to get the face right .Ive done it and stripped it again twice!Hopefully ill be able to use your methods in the smaller scale. Keep the pics coming, cheers tony

            Comment

            • Guest

              #7
              Many thanks Tony, this method is what I use accross the board,1:16,1:35 and even 1:48.I hope it can help you, just writting the final part for this tutorial now,....so please stay tuned everyone.

              Comment

              • Guest

                #8
                Okay here is the final chapter, Time to add a bit of feel to the base colour now, so we have our smooth basic skintone, you will need a toothpick for the next part.

                Our face should look like this before we can move on.

                Time to grab your cocktail stick and just touch the blob of Burnt Sienna oil paint,now we need to make little dots on our face, these dots will be the lines around the face, cheek lines,eyebrows,under eyes,lower lip and ears etc. As this blend will give us a darker skin hue.I just do the lower lip to give a feel of depth.

                Now once again with our fine brush touch dabbed in thinner, we will dab the Burnt Sienna into the creases etc, light dabs and blend it into the neighbour skin tone.

                Now we repeat the cocktail dabbing again, but this time we will use Titanium white, and dab the nose bridge, a touch of the forehead and lower chin.Then with out moist brush of thinners repeat the dabbing to blend in with the neighbour colour again.

                We should now be able to see different skintones on our face. remember this is just a basic skintone, we need not worry to much about enviromental weathering just yet.

                Okay your almost done, just take a look at what you have painted and you may need to darken or lighten certain areas, just use the cocktail stick to place the paint where you think its needed and then blend with dabbing the brush.When all is done you should be happy with your face....phewwww!

                Thats the basics done, now when your head has dried, you can add a very dilute wash to the face of burnt umber or burnt sienna. Make this a very tainted thinner mix,add this to the eyes,mouth,ears, anywhere you think it would be needed, or just do an overall wash of the face, this will bring your face further to been lifelike.

                Dont forget to paint the models hands also while you have your skintone paint mixed.

                Well thats the end of our basic skintone tutorial, it wont win many awards but it will serve its purpose, Now your on your own, from here on in its just enviromental weathering, a touch of the cocktail stick method of crimson red on the cheeks and dab blended for winter cold faces or a touch of sunburn. If you wish to add 5 '0'clock shadow I use Paynes grey, cocktail stick dabbed around the area, then dabbed again with the brush to blend in.

                This is where you can get involved in making the face interesting with your own touches, the main point of his tutorial was to get you to get the basic skintone to work from.

                Well I hope this has helped, and it would be great to see your work, so go on and enjoy painting heads and faces.

                Ray.

                Comment

                • Guest

                  #9
                  Top marks again mate. excellent work, can you do a make over on TingTing for me if i send her up lmao.

                  Andy

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                  • Ian M
                    Administrator
                    • Dec 2008
                    • 18264
                    • Ian
                    • Falster, Denmark

                    #10
                    Very well done Ray. I might just have to give it a go one day.

                    Ian M
                    Group builds

                    Bismarck

                    Comment

                    • Guest

                      #11
                      Brilliant guide Ray, would you mind if I took your information and pictures and turned it into a downloadable PDF file?

                      Comment

                      • Guest

                        #12
                        Cheers Ray, this is a wonderful tutorial and one I intend to keep trying until I get it right.

                        OK, as you know, my little man (1:16 Tamiya) went belly up so I have put it in Model Strip and it is now back to plastic. I also have a 1:10 scale Paratrooper that comes with two heads. Not up to Tamiya quality but they will look OK on the model, may be the one screaming, so you can imagine my pleasure at this tutorial.

                        So I have started as I mean to go on, and done it differently. Not because I want to but I am trying a run at it with the materials I have. So, the base colour I have used, Vallejo Panzer Aces Flesh Base, is a tad darker and appears slightly redder than the Tamiya paint that Ray has used. This may be a mistake but I will give it a try knowing that there is plenty of Model Strip in the pot to start again if it doesn't work. I am more than prepared to do this until I can get a look I like and make it easily repeatable. I have also given the base coat a cover of Tamiya Clear so I expect to get the ruler if not lines of Ray for getting off to such a rebellious start. I will get a pot of Tamiya flesh as I do think it looks good and it gives a more natural look.

                        Here are my test pieces, Edd, Edd and Eddy. You can see the difference in quality between the two 1:10 heads compared to the 1:16 Tamiya head.

                        These have now been put to one side to dry overnight ready for the next stage.

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                        • Guest

                          #13
                          I was thinking exactly the same Kelly. However, I would do it, with Rays permission and of course his name on it under the Scale Models Banner. PM sent Ray.

                          Comment

                          • Guest

                            #14
                            Oh gosh yes! I wouldn't want to steal it away. The idea was that it would be a file we could all download and possibly print rather than view in a thread. Much like the guide you linked to earlier on. With luck it might even prompt me to have a go myself.

                            Comment

                            • Guest

                              #15
                              As always thanks for the kind words and support, and PDF is no problem, if it helps then Im in.cheers for the vote of confidence guys.

                              No lines or rulers today Graham, as you didnt walk away from something that was giving you a headache, you stuck at it, I dont think the base colour is a problem, nice heads and all sealed, your on the your way now Graham, I look forward to the results. One of the simple keys to figures is take your time and enjoy the whole process, this way Im sure Edd,Edd and Eddy will turn out spot on.

                              If there is interest, more than happy to do an "additional" tutorial addon of the little extras like hair, weathering etc

                              Thanks again guys

                              Ray

                              .

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