Warhammer FB Khorne Bloodthirster c1995

[Guest]

OK, firstly I didnt really want to do an under construction thread just in case I lose interest, as I have done with a few other models in the past. However, after just a few stages this is starting to look really good.


I played Warhammer Fantasy Battle about 20 years ago and although my painting skill back then wasnt half as good as it is now (And its not exactly top notch right now) this took pride of place in my army. It was a horribly big cost in points, but any excuse to use it then I would.


Anyway, to begin


I consider myself lucky to have got this for just under a tenner on fleabay. I think the cost back then was about £20 (That was a lot of money back in the day etc etc) and out of production models normally sell for a lot more now than they did back then. It came painted but only to the point that it was primed black and the body was painted brown. Not a good look, IMO of course.


Now, a little bit of background.


The Bloodthirster is a greater deamon summoned to serve the God Khorne. If you have ever heard of of warhammer you may have heard phrases like "Blood for the Blood God", "Skulltaker" or "Skulls for the blood God"...you hopefully get the picture now.


Khorne is one of many Gods featured in Warhammer CHaos armies, and in my opinion the most awesome.


90% of models are painted using 3 basic colours...Deep red, Brass and Black. They are therefore good for painting by beginners. However, there is also scope for taking painting skills a lot further.


So, Ill do a catch up.


I didnt take any pictures "As purchased" which is a real shame but the first three pictures show you what it looked like after I stripped the paint, using oven cleaner and reassembled it together. It had already been pinned so it was easy to put back, and I will say that there are gaps especially in the arms. Ive left them and decided not to fill them as I feel I can cover them up with the painting. Call me lazy if you wish but I ont see the point in doing more work than you aready need to.


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You will notice quite a few skulls, which Ive never done before, but Ive watched enough youtube videos now to make a feature film on the subject


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This is actually quite a painful miniture to paint, mainly on account of how many spikey bits exist. Therefore its advisable to paint these bits last as its impossible to hold the miniture without touching a spikey bit causeing the paint to rub off.


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I dont really care too much for pictures of models with primer on them as its not anything exciting, but in this case I think it really shows the detail off. I primed it in black as its a "Bad Guy" and it hekps to darken the reds a little


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The next stage was to paint the body parts in Citadels "Khorne Red". I was going to spray it on, but I chickened out as the paint, being from their base range, is very thick and I didnt want to get this wrong, so out came the brush. It was given two coats as I thinned the paint a touch too much, but as they say "You can add but you cant take away"


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Next the model was washed with Citdels Carroburg Crimson, but Im afraid I forgot to take a photo. Shame really as it really added a lot of depth to the model.


Next comes the fun part. All the red parts are dry brushed. So out came my cheapest most horrible brush and I can assure you that the brush is fit only for the bin now. The colour I used was Citadels Wazdakka Red from their layer range.


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Tomorrow Ill give it another dry brush with Squig Orange then its on to the wings, which I can tell you are also going to be fun

[Guest]

Couldnt resist having a little go at dry brushing with Citadels Squig Orange. I gave it a quick once over on all the red parts, then went over it again with the uppermost details and the areas that are more forward, such as the breast, the front of the legs, fronts of arms and the upper part of the wings closer to the horn.


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Ive just looked back at the base coat of red and actually quite amazed at the transformation from a flat looking red to something thats really shown up the detail

[Guest]

Nice work so far.

[Guest]

This is looking good so far, must admit I actually enjoy building the vehicles more than the figures , the I have completed are posted in the sci fi section, I will be following this with interest.


scott

[monica]

looking good i do like the reds,

[Guest]

looking good i do like the reds,

Thank you. Its slightly inspired by the store manager from Peterborough Games Workshop. I was talking to her the other day in the Kings Lynn store and she was working on a project for a competition themed on the latest 50 Shades of Grey film. The brief is that you have to paint a miniture using any colour you like but ONLY one colour. She was working on a model using browns and ut really got me thinking about the power of shading.


You may or may not motice that the armour plates on the tops of the legs are slightly darker. This is because I didnt shade using the orange. This is because I wanted the armour to be much deeper and darker. But although its the same colour its actually completely different. Use of shades So, it turns out this is a learning experience as well as a fun project...however, who here can honestly say they dont learn something new everytime they commit to a project.


Im actually stuggling with the chains and emblems at the moment, so Im off down my local Games Workshop to seek advice, which is one of the big advantages to these models....the aftersales service is fantastic. You cant go down your local hobby store and seek advice on how to shade an airfix kit cockpit.


Anyway, my main two issues right now


1 - The chain around his arms. Im wanting to do it in a steel colour like a regular chain, however this is a fantasy blood deamons weapon so Im tempted to say it should be brass. But a brass chain attachted to a weapon thats approx 10 feet long? I know this is fantasy but you do need a touch of realism too


2 - The shields and emblems (embelishments?) espeically the ones on his shoulders and the one protecting his manhood. Im really not sure how to do them considering I want to keep a dark red/black/brass theme.


I also want to start work on the hoofs, bearing in mind the my "light source" is usually 45 degrees up in the air directly in front of him (If that makes sense)


Anyway, thanks for the positive feedback to date, it really is appreciated and does actually spur me on, but please dont be scared to tell me its awful and I need to do this that and the other, afterall, if you dont tell me its bad I will go along thinking Im awesome and continuing to churn out poor quality painting.

[monica]

absolutuly true,the use of shading and shadow,is most important with figure work,


I have a chat with the guys were i get my Vallejo paint from,as they mostly paint mini,but i can still use they ways and technecks


with 1.35 or ever for 1.6 or 1.12,or say 90mm and so on just need to adjust how you do use that method,to your style of painting


i will go ever other week just for a chat and coffee,as i do enjoy ,being able to see and lean how others do,


and will take soe thing in ,and they will say well this part or that needs to be more or less high lighted,that type of thing,

[takeslousyphotos]

That is great work so far Penny .............. and he is one nasty ugly looking bitch !!!!


Peter

[Guest]

A few updates for you


CITADEL AGRAX EARTHSHADE applied to darken the hooves.


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After washing with CITADEL AGRAX EARTHSHADE ebelishments were given a second coat using CITADEL BRASS SCORPION


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Shields drybrushed with CITADEL BRASS SCORPION


Hooves were given a second wash with CITADEL AGRAX EARTHSHADE as I felt they were a little too light. The edges were then highlighted with CITADEL RUNELORD BRASS and the hooves were given a further shading of CITADEL AGRAX


Brass areas were highlighted using CITADEL RUNELORD BRASS

[PaulTRose]

im quite partial to the citadel washes, come in quite useful

[Guest]

Fraid Ive got carried away and just got on with it.


Ive base coated the handle of the weapons blakc, ready for painting later on...or I may leave it black. Not sure yet.


Skulls and spikey bits have now been base coated a boney colour and will need to be washed next with a brown wash. Then Ill dry brush the bone colur on again so it gets brighter the closer you get to the tip. Skulls will be done with slightly different colours, so it doesnt get so "samey"


Im almost ready to start doing the fleshy parts of the wing, but Im finding the main problem is that the paint is coming off where it keeps getting touched, so Im thinking perhaps it may be better to do the base, stick it down and then there is no longer any need to touch the model anymore.


Then its on to the whip. I was chatting with someone at a club on sunday and he gave me a great suggestion. I should paint it red, in some way, then paint the outer edges in bone to make it look like a spinal cord. Basically in a previous battle he has defeated a rather big chap, pulled his head off and used his spine as a weapon.


Another idea I was given was to paint a very very thin orangey red on the tip of the blade. You know when you heat metal and it goes bright. The idea being that the axe is constantly being magically sharpened and reforged so it is always at its peak.


I may have mentioned that Im quite scared of this model, however that fear has now gone away. Im trying out lots of new ideas and surprisingly they are working. Mainly because I know the model cost me less than £10, and in a worst case scenario I can get the paint stripped off and start again in less than 24 hours


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[Guest]

You're making some real progress. Looking great so far.


D.

[papa 695]

Some very nice work looking very good indeed

[Guest]

Looking really good!


How they work, the Citadel paints..? I never used them...O_o

[monica]

he is looking great some nice painting on him i do like it,


like how you have picked up the Shadows