It always amazes me how much great art is put together from just suggestion rather than actual detail. Not all of them though. I spent an afternoon in the national a couple of weeks ago. If you ever get a chance look at “the Arnolfini betrothal” by Van Eyck really really closely. The steward showed it to me in close up using his mobile to zoom in. The detail is simply staggering, it goes right down to single hairs on the chin…. Everything they do is pretty much NMM by the way, but they don’t have to worry about someone rotating the figure when they look at it LOL.
Dwarf Gem Collector
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I'd agree there's plenty to learn from a trip around an art gallery.
It's funny how NMM is considered a wee bit 'edgy' among miniature painters, yet is, as you say, totally the norm on canvas. In fact, when you see true metallics on canvas (I'm thinking greek icons), THAT looks a bit out of the ordinary.Comment
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So, I've dealt with mould lines and bubbles, epoxied his fez on and primed him.
Then I've done a 'zenithal' prime from two angles - above and behind his left shoulder, and upwards from the gem. The gem itself has been painted titanium white.
Now, I've only ever used an airbrush to prime, zenithal prime and varnish before - never anything more. So from now on, this is entirely new territory for me.
I blocked in the main colours using inks or diluted paints, to maintain some degree of transparency. I then overlaid two inks to represent the two different light sources - a cool turquoise from above and behind, and light green from the gem. I then went back and forth, adding more white and more colour as necessary.
At this stage it's very rough and ready. I've been amazed at how quickly the main colours go down with an airbrush, but I found it really nerve-wracking, as I had no idea what I was doing really.
I'm reasonably pleased with where I've got to so far, but it's obvious that you can't just rely on airbrushing to set up all the right tones. For example, his brows and his massive hooter cast deep shadows and, even though I've laid on white and light green really heavily there, they still aren't lit up as they should be. I'm going to have to lift the tone there even further when I switch to brushes.
It's been just a couple of hours airbrushing, but I'm completely knackered from concentrating so hard!Attached FilesComment
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Paul
Very interesting approach, and great progress so far. Don't forget that there are two ways to make things look brighter. Lightening up and saturating the colour, OR darkening the surrounding area. With the lighting that you are going for some deep dark shadows would certainly aid.
JOhnComment
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Absolutely, John. I definitely need to drop the unlit areas right down - I'll be focusing on that to begin with, I think. And thanks for the kind words!Comment
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Real life in the shape of some (very welcome) house guests had this on hold for a while. Just managed to get back to it.
Bright bits have been taken up, dark bits toned down. Still a long way to go.
I'm realising that OSL probably works best in photos. In ambient light the effect is compromised by the 'normal' shadows cast. It doesn't matter how much white paint I slap under his hooter there's always shadow there, confounding the OSL which should have that area as one of the brightest on the whole bust.
Interesting project nonetheless.
Not sure this really shows what I mean about ambient light compromising the effectiveness of the OSL - maybe I'm overstating it:
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Coming together Paul. I agree about the photography enhancement of OSL. I think the same thing happens with NMM. Not sure the top right of his hooter would be lit up by the gem though?Comment
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