Grór

[minitnkr]

I wonder who does his hair/beard.

[rtfoe]

Looking really good Paul, the raised shield with the dark inside brings out the detail on the head...good adjustment call there.

I wonder who does his hair/beard.

Vidal Sassoon? :tears-of-joy:

Cheers,
Richard

[PaulinKendal]

Superb - what scale is that? I can't do eyes yet - learning from you! :disappointed2:
Steve

1:10th scale. He's 70mm from the top of his head to the tip of his beard(s).
Eyes - lots of tutorials about, I particularly like Musha's -

Her's is the technique I tried this time. Although I do love the instruction on Mark Bennette's tutorial: "Tiny pupils will give the classic "nutter" look while too large will give it a "cute" look." Guess what I went for with this psycho?

https://www.planetfigure.com/pages/Mark-Benette-Eye-Tutorial/

[PaulinKendal]

That’s coming on in leaps and bounds Paul. Looks like you’re having a ball. Great work….

Thanks Tim. I am thoroughly enjoying this one.

[PaulinKendal]

I wonder who does his hair/beard.

Ha ha!

[PaulinKendal]

Looking really good Paul, the raised shield with the dark inside brings out the detail on the head...good adjustment call there.

As soon as I did it I thought: "why would you not do that?"- a complete no-brainer.

[Airborne01]

1:10th scale. He's 70mm from the top of his head to the tip of his beard(s).
Eyes - lots of tutorials about, I particularly like Musha's -

Her's is the technique I tried this time. Although I do love the instruction on Mark Bennette's tutorial: "Tiny pupils will give the classic "nutter" look while too large will give it a "cute" look." Guess what I went for with this psycho?

https://www.planetfigure.com/pages/Mark-Benette-Eye-Tutorial/

Thanks Paul - will certainly try that - although my results to date aren't encouraging!

[PaulinKendal]

Thanks Paul - will certainly try that - although my results to date aren't encouraging!

I've spent about a year painting up a wargaming army. Although I know the "10,000 hours" shtick has rather been discredited, my experience suggests there's no substitute for just doggedly applying paint to figures over and over again. I've been surprised how much progress I've made, and how pleasurable the process has been - so long as I don't expect to make massive leaps forward without putting the graft in!

[Tim Marlow]

Practice, practice, practice Steve! Very much like airbrushing, putting in the hours on the end of brush is the only way to really develop the requisite muscle memory for fine motor control. I’ve also found the learning curve isn’t a smooth one. Your development can plateau for a while, then something you found very hard, like eyes, suddenly becomes second nature and you move up a notch. It doesn’t need God given talent, at least, for putting paint in the right place, just application. Application of the seat of the pants to the chair for the required length of time .

[Jim R]

Hi Paul
Definitely coming on a treat.
Jim

[rtfoe]

I've spent about a year painting up a wargaming army. Although I know the "10,000 hours" shtick has rather been discredited, my experience suggests there's no substitute for just doggedly applying paint to figures over and over again. I've been surprised how much progress I've made, and how pleasurable the process has been - so long as I don't expect to make massive leaps forward without putting the graft in!

Practice, practice, practice Steve! Very much like airbrushing, putting in the hours on the end of brush is the only way to really develop the requisite muscle memory for fine motor control. I’ve also found the learning curve isn’t a smooth one. Your development can plateau for a while, then something you found very hard, like eyes, suddenly becomes second nature and you move up a notch. It doesn’t need God given talent, at least, for putting paint in the right place, just application. Application of the seat of the pants to the chair for the required length of time .

Yes, a lot of new comers and some old are unaware of the years and hours we have put in to get to where our skills look like second nature and easy to do. Many unfortunately think they can achieve success overnight and get frustrated with poor results and the bin is their next best friend...I'm not quoting anyone. :smiling6:
I may have a slight tiny measure of natural talent for color and detail but it is still a learning curve presently even. I am like a kid with every new build with enthusiasm to add the little knowledge I have just seen or learnt applied to it or revisit an old kit and make something out of it. You guys are good at encouraging and stirring up the mojo and I thank you.

Cheers,
Richard

[PaulinKendal]

So I've had a bash at his armour, specifically his pauldrons (the shoulder protectors). I'm not particularly happy with them. I've used Vallejo Metal Color steel and silver - first steel mixed with black, then neat steel, then steel and silver, then pure silver highlights. Then black oil wash, followed by Vallejo Black Green ink in the shadows. The medallions are Vallejo Game Air bright bronze and polished gold, again with a black oil wash.

This is the first time I've used true metallic metal on such a large scale, and I really just slapped it on to see how it looked.
It has pooled in places, and I can see how I can improve on it quite easily with a bit more care.
I'm probably going to scrape and rub down the blobby bits, matt varnish it to seal the oil wash, then paint on top. If that goes pear-shaped I'll strip it back and start again.

[Tim Marlow]

Looks pretty good to me Paul. Perhaps just in need of a little sharpening and edge highlighting.
I can see what you mean about blobby bits though. Are you sure that some of them are paint or are they casting flaws? The right hand pauldron issues seem to be there in your earlier unpainted pictures, for example. TMM is notorious for showing up surface flaws.
Also, did you underpaint the metal parts? I find TMM takes best over a black ground. Most metallics don’t have enough body to work over a grey or lighter base and the black somehow adds depth and lustre. I still struggle with TMM myself though, sometimes it’s great, other times it’s awful, looking like chrome plated plastic :disappointed2:
The Vallejo metal colours are great paints, but there isn’t a huge variety in the yellow shades. The gold is a bit weird to be honest. It has a green tinge to it that I dislike. Have you tried, or looked at, the Darkstar range of metallics? They are a little different to use, being gel acrylics, but the bronze triad is great, as are the various gold shades. The paints mix easily as well, so you can use them to layer up metal areas.
Worth trying other shading than straight black, by the way. I find steel likes a blue/black shade. The cooler shading making it look more like steel. Darkstar gunmetal acts as a good shade colour in this respect. It is a pretty dark blue black metallic. Vallejo metal colours have nothing equivalent.
Gold and bronze seem to like a purple or purple black tint in the shading. Brings out the warmth in the metal colour I suppose.
Lots of experimentation you can try to find what works…that’s the fun bit I think

Obviously you can take or leave as much of this as you like. Most of it is just first thing in the morning rambling anyway :tongue-out3:

[PaulinKendal]

Thanks for that reply, Tim - so helpful, as always. Absolutely right about the casting flaws - good spot. I'll have to decide what to do about them. And lots in there to consider re. paint options, too.
We've had a good mate up to stay for a few days, and it's taken me away from the workbench. We're having a great time, so it's a terrible thing to admit, but part of me just can't wait to get back to painting properly! So ungrateful! I can't be the only one on here who suffers from this particular affliction...

[PaulinKendal]

He's done...
More pictures in the 'completed' section.