Hi all
Andy yep from the tartan paint shop
Ok I said I would do a short SBS on how to do shading so as im starting the trousers here goes and it will probably be done in a few blogs. ill go right from the basics so the first thing s that to get the correct shading you have to get the light direction right. Normally with modelling they are painted with the light source coming from the top, therefore the nearer to the top the lighter it is and vice versa nearer the bottom its darker.
The first picture is just the base coat, very important to have a good base coat to work from, this has had 3 coats and been left for at least 24 hours to go off.
From the base colour I now have to determine the lowest points, and as hes sat down with his leg out straight, the lowest points are right at the bottom and in the deep recesses in the creases.
The next step is to darken the lowest points, so ive added a bit of burnt umber to the base coat making it a slightly darker shade, and then painted the bottom of the leg.
From there I added a bit more burnt umber and went over the bottom part again, The idea is to leave a bit of the previous colour showing so that it graduates down, if that makes sense
Moving on to the top ive then added a tough of white to the base coat and then painted the top part of the leg
Then again a touch more white and layer it on again, remember its a layering process of thin layers, I have my paint to about the consistency of milk or thin yoghurt,
This is the leg with the contrasts of dark and light on the base.
The next step is to pick out the deep creases. This is a mix of 50/50 base colour and burnt umber
The next step is to add the detail, I normally have 5 mixes of paint ready, base colour, and 2 shades darker plus 2 shades lighter, and I work on a small area at a time
Here ive been working on the knee area and you can see that nearer the edges of the creases ive added washes of the lighter shades.
its a gradual process of adding thin washes and building up the colours, don't worry if there is a harsh line between 2 shades, just mix an intermediate shade and paint over the joint line and it will blend the 2 colours together
You can see that the differences with tones at the mo are quite subtle and these will be intensified later
For the last part of this stage ive painted in the leg bindings, this is just to give me an idea of what it will look like with a different colour and also it shaows where extra shading is needed
Ill leave this for a while and let the paint settle, it often looks completely different when its really dry so end of part one
Paul
Andy yep from the tartan paint shop

Ok I said I would do a short SBS on how to do shading so as im starting the trousers here goes and it will probably be done in a few blogs. ill go right from the basics so the first thing s that to get the correct shading you have to get the light direction right. Normally with modelling they are painted with the light source coming from the top, therefore the nearer to the top the lighter it is and vice versa nearer the bottom its darker.
The first picture is just the base coat, very important to have a good base coat to work from, this has had 3 coats and been left for at least 24 hours to go off.
From the base colour I now have to determine the lowest points, and as hes sat down with his leg out straight, the lowest points are right at the bottom and in the deep recesses in the creases.
The next step is to darken the lowest points, so ive added a bit of burnt umber to the base coat making it a slightly darker shade, and then painted the bottom of the leg.
From there I added a bit more burnt umber and went over the bottom part again, The idea is to leave a bit of the previous colour showing so that it graduates down, if that makes sense
Moving on to the top ive then added a tough of white to the base coat and then painted the top part of the leg
Then again a touch more white and layer it on again, remember its a layering process of thin layers, I have my paint to about the consistency of milk or thin yoghurt,
This is the leg with the contrasts of dark and light on the base.
The next step is to pick out the deep creases. This is a mix of 50/50 base colour and burnt umber
The next step is to add the detail, I normally have 5 mixes of paint ready, base colour, and 2 shades darker plus 2 shades lighter, and I work on a small area at a time
Here ive been working on the knee area and you can see that nearer the edges of the creases ive added washes of the lighter shades.
its a gradual process of adding thin washes and building up the colours, don't worry if there is a harsh line between 2 shades, just mix an intermediate shade and paint over the joint line and it will blend the 2 colours together
You can see that the differences with tones at the mo are quite subtle and these will be intensified later
For the last part of this stage ive painted in the leg bindings, this is just to give me an idea of what it will look like with a different colour and also it shaows where extra shading is needed
Ill leave this for a while and let the paint settle, it often looks completely different when its really dry so end of part one
Paul
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