phalinmegob is gonna have a go at a tank,god help me

[Guest]

the main problem i can see at the moment is that the miniart base is not going to be big enough so i am going to have to try and make a bigger base and match the cobbles up on the base of the minart out of plaster or something.the tank will take up all the space in front of the building and i will not be able to see anything else.off to the shed to see if i have any mdf left.

[Guest]

Why not build the miniart dio base and the tank along side each other , if the tank does not fit make a basic desert base out of mdf , by then your be hooked with dio`s and you will have a nice miniart dio base ready made for something a bit smaller

just an idea ?

Richy

[Guest]

anyone ever tried pouring plaster of paris into the back of a mini art kit,wonder how well the moulding will turn out,it is not as detailed inside,got some plaster here,sod it gonna have a go for curiosity's sake might be able to make some more cobbles for the floor area.i will have a go before i start cutting out the vac form sheets.

[Guest]

You could always buy the farm yard part.

MiniArt: Plastic model kits, AFV, Historical miniatures & Figures, Building & Accessories

Kit36015.

[Guest]

Hi Andrew

You cna buy some cobbled road sections, there are two different types, if you go onto the MiniArt site and look in the catalogue section you can see them on there.

You can get them from Creative models or try e-bay.

Tom

[Guest]

i did look at those separate cobble sections on the mini art site but they look totally different from the cobbles on the dio base i have.

[Ian M]

Make a mould from the original:

Put the cobbles, rigth way up in a tray, seal the gap at the bottom with plastercine or window putty. Get hold of some moulding rubber, and paint the whole lot getting into all the nooks and cracks, when that is dry you can pour more on so it is a couple of mm thick. Once that is dry mix a thin plaster mix and pour it over the whole lot. Nice thick layer If you need a bit of extra strength push some net or gaze bandage in to the last couple of mm of plaster. Leave to dry for a couple of days. When 110% dry prime and paint it with glossy paint of varnish. When that is 110% hardened off you will be able to use that as a cast.

Sound s pain and in fact it can be but you end up with a cast you can use a good few times.

Ian M

[Guest]

right, had a go at moulding from the back with plaster of paris, sort of success but it kept snapping as i was removing them from the vac form sheets,at least i have finally made a start !!! see what you think

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need to leave it for a few days for the plaster to set properly,but mr impatient is banging on the door.

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also started scribing out the mini art parts,bloody hell, there is not a lot of space to glue together,the edges are wafer thin on some of them.

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[Guest]

Andrew thats a nice job mate, let me see if i get this straight all you did is urn the miniart cobbles upside down then pour in plasterof paris, is that right? If thats the case i might give that a try. Well done mate will be watching this.

scott

[Guest]

yes , that is all i did, as i work in a builders merchant i used some plaster called "casting plaster" made by british gypsum, problem is that if you mix a decent amount up to fill a large piece as i was, it starts to go off in minutes and i mean minutes,got to be very quick. i tried about four times before i got it in place on the large section.it starts going off whilst your mixing it and can feel it going stodgy in the bottom of jug. just casting some spare pieces for the wall that will be extended..it is ok for a one off but it would not work to create a whole new kit . i did try to cast all of the pieces but all the small ones fell to bits.

[Ian M]

That turned out rather well!

I have heard that plaster can be slowed down by putting ciggy ash in it, I don't know if it works with the stuff you got hold of though it works well on the pink stuff you put on walls!

Ian M

[Guest]

If this helps, I've made moulds of plaster streets using mould making latex. 10-15 coats and it's sufficiently thick to peel off and use as a mould. should work well with the miniart stuff as it's not porous so should take fewer coats.

HTH

Stuart

[Guest]

cracking on with the mini art building now, there is nothing left to glue together as the sides are really thin,have resorted to glueing plastic tabs inside each piece to get something to glue together.is this the route other people use or am i cutting them too close to the edges.you guys were right ,i better stock up on some filler,there are gaps everywhere,its not easy to get these things straight.

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i can also see the difference in the cobbles now i have primed them,as they effectly have lost the thickness of the plastic mould as they were cast inside the sheet,but i will live with it for now,also the sunken bits of cobbles look a lot worse in that picture face on than they do lying flat and hopefully the tank will hide most of that.

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[Ian M]

Good call on the tabs, I saw another build where he had done just that. Also after he had cut the parts out, he placed the part, cut edge down on a full sheet of fine sand paper and carefully sanded all the edges flat. It really made a difference and gave a much better edge to glue on to.

It looks to me that you are getting the better of it.

Ian M

[Guest]

also just noticed that the four pieces that i have allready glued together are twisted after coming out of clamps,should be fun when i get round to gluing everything together to complete the building, think i will paint it all beforehand as the bricks are tiny and want to try and get some variation in colours.