Dave W's Phantom

[Ian M]

Well for a first attempt, that has turned out quite well. It can be a bit of a pig to get off at times. I use an old tooth brush and if that dont do the trick its a combo of water and a finger tip!!

Ian M

[Dave W]

I used a toothbrush on it whilst holding the model under a running tap.Ended up using my fingertip like you Ian!.

[flyjoe180]

That worked well Dave.

[Dave W]

Thanks Joe.Need to think of a way to make the rest of the paintwork look not so new.Im not a fan of preshading.I don't think it looks very realistic.So I need to think of something else.

[Guest]

The margin between the two camo colours is surprisingly sharp (to me at any rate) rather than a little fuzzy. Did you hold the AB vertically pointing down at all times?

[Dave W]

I wasn't after a 'fuzzy' edge Steve.I tried to replicate the finish on the one in the photograph as viewed from a distance.

[papa 695]

Looking very good Dave and a very nice job on the chipping

[Guest]

I think you've nailed the camo effect there Dave. I agree with the pre-shading point too - it can look OTT, especially in small scales.

[Guest]

I wasn't after a 'fuzzy' edge Steve.I tried to replicate the finish on the one in the photograph as viewed from a distance.

I'm not too much of a fan of the fuzzy look-it can make a paint job look sloppy. I have not looked hard enough at original paint jobs (but will do). Assuming that the distance from when the fuzzyness starts at one colour and stops at the other colour, is 1 inch (25mm), at 1/72 that equates to 25/72 mm = 0.37 mm. At 1/48 it is 25/48 = 0.52 mm, and at 1/36 scale = 0.74 mm. Even if the fuzziness occurs over a distance greater than 1 inch, it seems to be undetectable to the eye in most scales even at close range.

So, the conclusion seems to me to be that masks stuck directly on the model is the best way. Any other views?

I like your photo. Shows off the model nicely which gives a very good impression that it is flying. I prefer propeller planes and it is difficult editing the props in a photo to appear to be convincingly rotating.

[Dave W]

I'm not too much of a fan of the fuzzy look-it can make a paint job look sloppy. I have not looked hard enough at original paint jobs (but will do). Assuming that the distance from when the fuzzyness starts at one colour and stops at the other colour, is 1 inch (25mm), at 1/72 that equates to 25/72 mm = 0.37 mm. At 1/48 it is 25/48 = 0.52 mm, and at 1/36 scale = 0.74 mm. Even if the fuzziness occurs over a distance greater than 1 inch, it seems to be undetectable to the eye in most scales even at close range.So, the conclusion seems to me to be that masks stuck directly on the model is the best way. Any other views?

I like your photo. Shows off the model nicely which gives a very good impression that it is flying. I prefer propeller planes and it is difficult editing the props in a photo to appear to be convincingly rotating.

That's actually a photo of a real Phantom Steve !.

[Guest]

Duh! The background looked like it was artificial. At least I was able to detect quality. I was right in saying it looked like it was flying!

[Dave W]

Made a bit more progress.Dirtied it to look a bit war weary and sprayed some gloss varnish on.Ive started applying the decals today.There are a lot of stencils to go on.So it will take a few sessions to get them all on.Im not impressed with the Print Scale decals.Every one of them broke up as I applied them.But I managed to piece them together.The kill markings (two red stars) were way too big when compared with those on a photo of Old's next to his Phantom.Luckily there were some on the Revell kits decal sheet.Im relieved the Revell decals are up to there usual high standard.Once the decals are all on I will give it another coat of varnish and paint the panels around the engine exhaust area.And I'm busy making a aileron out of plastic card to replace the one I lost.

[flyjoe180]

That's looking top notch Dave. The salt chipping has worked out well. Hehe Steve, that's funny mate, because at first I though the same thing.

[Guest]

Those chips look the business Dave. Cheers Derek

[Guest]

On chipping, a have a recent Flory Models movie using masking fluid. After priming, add some alluminium-looking paint to the area to be chipped, dab a small piece of coarse sponge carrying masking fluid on to those areas, (making random spots), paint as usual (airbrushing seems best) then when dry rub off the masking fluid.