Jims Phantom

[colin m]

Very nice, great scratch building here. And two at the same time - braver than me.

[Guest]

Hi Chaps and Thank you..I have had fun and games attaching the intake with similar gaps to the ones Dave W posted about, my question is; how do you use a rivet tool? as it will be inevitable that some of the rivets along the seam(s) will meet their demise in the sanding process. Any help would be appreciated..not easy this kit bashing lark..

Cheers Jim

[Ian M]

Which type of tool do you have for the rivets.

Ian M

[Dave W]

I wouldn't bother with the rivets Jim.They were almost all countersunk on the phantom and difficult to see under the paint.Most access panels were attached with countersunk cross head screws.Dont think they would be very prominent in this scale.

[Guest]

Thank Lads, I haven't got any rivet wheels yet Ian, I thought I may need one after the sanding but as Dave mentioned no need to bother:clap: but I will get one anyway you never know when I may need it..Thanks again Chaps

Jim..may be more silly questions a wee bit later..:smile1:

[Dave W]

No such thing as a silly question Jim.Years ago I was on a course and kept asking questions.One of the lads on the course said to me in the pub one evening 'We are all glad your on this course Dave.You ask the stupid questions we are all too embarrassed to ask!'.

[Guest]

Hi can anyone put me on the right path? I want to try and modulate the black paint scheme on the Black Bunny, any assistance with this would be appriciated..

Jim

[Guest]

Not much in the grand scheme of things on the 1/48 I know...but its a big thing to me, after reading some threads on how to, and after 4 attempts + one knife wound I managed to get it almost right (good enough for me)..can I wait to do the 1/72 canopy masking..quick answer No, p.s. sorry about the photo this tablet thing has got a mind (or is it chip) of its own.

Jim

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[Ian M]

Hey Ho Jim.

I didn't see you post of many hours ago, sorry about the last reply.

Black Bunny was high gloss black was she not. As far s I am aware, gloss black will be almost impossible to modulate in the normal sense of the term. if you just want to break it up a bit so its not a sea of black, like on a non-shiny thing, I would suggest trying something like varying the undercoat. Dark blues, Grey tones, Dark greens and deep reds. Mist the gloss black on top until you can just see the slightest hint of the under coat. BUT try it out on a junker or a bit of plastic packaging first.

Think of it as extreme preshading....

Canopies are such fun to mask aren't they. NOT. If you thing the big one was fun, wait until you try the ittsy bitsy tiny one.....lol.

I hope the idea for the pre-shade works, and let us know how the test went.

Ian M

[flyjoe180]

I think you're doing a great job Jim. I actually don't mind masking canopies, ever since I followed Roman's tutorial on using masking tape and a new blade every time it has been much easier. If your knife gets blunt it doesn't work so well.

[Dave W]

A new blade every time you mask a canopy makes all the difference Ive found.Oh, and doing it whilst sober also helps!.

[flyjoe180]

Yes, that and fatigue are the two major error ingredients for me too.

[Guest]

Thanks Guys, I will go with perseverance (who ever he maybe) and masking tape with new blade, whiskey on the side (for disinfection purposes only ;0) ) and give that little bug**r a go. Oh and band aids..

Thanks Ian for the info re modulation, but under reconsideration I will go for the shinny black look:emo12:

[flyjoe180]

How are you getting on with this Jim? I'm quite looking forward to the black gloss finish of your F4.

[Guest]

Hi Jim, that's some great work there. I've been wondering about the finish on mine as well ( should be glossy too, although mine will be mainly white ). I'm thinking I might try a satin finish first, and see how it looks. If it doesn't look right, I'll just gloss over the top.

Cheers, Neil