looks to be a good base, 
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What type of paint are you using ?Comment
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The original paint was halfords grey primer that's what seemed to do the damage i am using grey enamel primer now.Comment
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I'm surprised as I use Halfords Acrylic grey & Red Oxide primer, and haven't experienced this problem.Originally posted by \
Do you use it out of the can, or decant for airbrush use?
Looking at the first photo's (blown up) I think what you may have is silicone contamination.
Did you wash/clean the plastic first. Or had a polish or similar product been sprayed anywhere in the vicinity of your modelling area.
Any sort of product (containing silicone) can cause the fish-eyes that seem to be in the finish on the first pics.
GreggComment
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I decant and spray with my ab, but you may be onto something there my daughter was cleaning her bike when I did that original spray job, she was doing it in the outhouse (where I model) and all her cleaning products come in spraycans, I wonder?Comment
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(1) Do you allow the propellant to evaporate after you decant ?Originally posted by \
(2) Any aerosol polish, or even WD40 type oil/lubricant will contaminate the air for a considerable distance/time.
Either of the above will cause (fish-eyes) in the paint surface.
Believe me I know. Many years ago when working for a Fiat agency, I was spraying the top coat on a vehicle in the spray booth.
A mechanic way down the other end of the workshop was using WD40, after I opened the booth door all hell let loose on my paint surface.
The paint surface looked like the surface of the moon, covered in craters.
Needless to say I had a few words with that mech!
GreggComment
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Normally I just shake the can squirt it into the ab cup then spray so I suppose not but it's how I've always done it even on my scratch built ships, before I even got back into plastic kits, and never had this problem before. I only remember the bike cleaning as it was a new bike she already is past the bothering to clean it any more stage.Comment
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Is this the polar lights one Ken ? If so be very careful with the decals , I built this about a year ago and my decals just disintegrated and were unusable and it's difficult to paint them on and make them look right well for me anyway
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Thanks for the warning AlanComment
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Hi all giving up on this paint job its reacted again, so I'm going to do something different with it.
Batman is forgotten all his wonderful gizmos and gadgets have fallen into disrepair, including his trusty old batmobile.
That's going to be the back story on this model now.
So will start tomorrow with a renewed enthusiasm for this build (you never know I may finish it in time for the end of the GbComment
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Sorry to see your still having problems.
It does sound as if the contamination is in the primer, which bleeds through subsequent coats.
I should have elaborated on how to get over the contamination problem, if it's a silicone/polish reaction.
You have two ways of getting rid of it, but maybe too late now.
Remove all the paint back to the plastic, then thoroughly wash the surface. (Probably not practical now)
Flat down, and coat with a barrier coat, (water-based paint) then carry on as normal.
GreggComment
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Hi all well this is going back in the box and being buried at the very bottom of my stash.
as Alan said the decals are awful and do break up but they also dont stick.
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it must be a draught that moved the decal as I hadnt touched the model when I took these pics.
so I have had it with this kit. I was going to do a dio of it on a dereclect street all rusty with weeds growing out of it but with no decals to show what it once was it would be a pointless dio, could be any car with no decals.
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"Trumpet playing in the backround" Laid to rest in the fail box.
All good mate, at least you gave a couple of decent goes.Comment
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