Never built a balsa kit before but I thought I'd have a go with this one, it just may take me the whole year to do it
Papa 695s Guillows P40 Warhawk
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Nice choice Ian. I've have a Guillows 3/4"- 1ft. Corsair on the go, off and on, for a while now....wing span 30"
I've built quite a few of these balsa model aircraft. The best advise I can give is get a piece of insulation board or something fairly soft bigger than your model and buy a load of plastic headed modelling pins. The key to success with these things is to keep the initial fuselage build flat, square and true. Sounds obvious, but once the fus. is complete and not enough care was taken at the start, any twist is impossible to get out and it might as well go in the bin!
Best of luck -
Originally posted by \Nice choice Ian. I've have a Guillows 3/4"- 1ft. Corsair on the go, off and on, for a while now....wing span 30"
I've built quite a few of these balsa model aircraft. The best advise I can give is get a piece of insulation board or something fairly soft bigger than your model and buy a load of plastic headed modelling pins. The key to success with these things is to keep the initial fuselage build flat, square and true. Sounds obvious, but once the fus. is complete and not enough care was taken at the start, any twist is impossible to get out and it might as well go in the bin!
Best of luck
While I'm at it what's the best dope and glue to use ?Comment
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Guest
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Originally posted by \Thanks Ron
While I'm at it what's the best dope and glue to use ?
As for dope, there are plenty of makes to choose from. I threw away the empty bottle, so I can't remember the name of the stuff I used, sorry!Comment
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I'm not sure if you can call it a start but I've got the planes laid down and covered with cling film.
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Just a quicky Ian, I tried using cling film - just once. I found I was for ever ducking and diving, trying to avoid the light reflections from the film. I gave up and never used the stuff again, preferring to pin the parts direct to the paper plan....As long as you are careful where the glue goes, you don't really need any covering, as such.
For most of the build, the wing ribs etc. will go on top of the leading and trailing edges, as will the fuse. ribs , so no real need for any protective covering. But do what you feel happy with and good luck with the model. Just make sure everything is nice and square and plumb with the bits stuck on the plan.....and use plenty of pins. The structure will try it's best to warp!Comment
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Hi I'm an ex balsa aircraft modeler hope this is of use to you
Use pva glue or epoxy or superglue and don't use shrinking dope on the covering use non shrinking dope or bannana oil having sprayed the tissue covering with water from a bottle atomizer this when dry will shrink the covering and make it taught the covering can be put on with thinned pva and a small brush if the tissue has a shiny side this goes outside
Hope this is of some help
RogerComment
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years ago when I was a young person we used to rub a candle over the plans. It was supposed to stop you glueing the parts to the plan. Sometimes it even worked.Comment
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I've seen these in my local hobbycraft ( Fw 190 and the p40
I've never done balsa before but I'd be interested to see what this turns out like
I'm watching Ian
Regards
RobertComment
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Agree about cyano, or even better, thin aliphatic resin - it's like a very runny cream coloured pva glue, but it wicks into joints and can be sanded very easily. If you want it to fly, stick to the aero modeller's well known axiom - "build in lightness"!Comment
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