Richard's Dragon 1/72 He 219 A-0 UHU Night Fighter
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Thanks Scottie, glad you like them. The propellers were a near miss but I can live with the not so smooth detail...only glad it got salvaged. Here they are all painted up and fixed on...
The canopy got a temporary mask while Future was sprayed overall to seal the panel line wash. The exhaust with base paint ready for weathering and graphite rub. These will be attached and light exhaust stains airbrushed.
The decalslook like they will shatter so will make mask for the Balkankruez and perhaps varnish the emblems and numerals before soaking them. Fingers crossed it works.
Cheers,
RichardComment
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Hi Guys, I have some update. This time they are regarding the decals. On taking a closer look they appear fragile plus the whites were yellowing and may have the tendancy of disintegrating when immursed in water. So I took the liberty to photostat two copies as a guide to cutting out masks. Then I sprayed vanish over the remainder of the decals that I would be using.
I used tamiya masking tape and pasted them over a cut out window from typewriting paper flat ont a cutting mat. I placed the photostats ontop and cut away. The balkenkruez for the underneath of the wing and the side fuselage masks were in two stages for the white and black. The following are the masks after the process...
The process below is for the second stage after I had already sprayed the white...
The outcome was better than I had expected...I had to break off the weight stabilizers to let the mask lay flat. I will re-stick them after the process.
The wing top just needed only one process and mask for the black.
Even the side balkenkruez worked out well as I was afraid the thinner outlines wouldn't cover properlly and be misaligned. Cutting out the lines not easy and it took me at least two hours for the masks.
I work on the swastika next and then the salvaged decal numerals and emblem. After that I will try some weathering.
I won't want to go through this again and will take more care with my decals the next time...perhaps store them in proper folders and away from moisture.
Cheers,
RichardComment
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Hi Guys, I have some update. This time they are regarding the decals. On taking a closer look they appear fragile plus the whites were yellowing and may have the tendancy of disintegrating when immursed in water. So I took the liberty to photostat two copies as a guide to cutting out masks. Then I sprayed vanish over the remainder of the decals that I would be using.
I used tamiya masking tape and pasted them over a cut out window from typewriting paper flat ont a cutting mat. I placed the photostats ontop and cut away. The balkenkruez for the underneath of the wing and the side fuselage masks were in two stages for the white and black. The following are the masks after the process...
[ATTACH=CONFIG]n1113085[/ATTACH]
The process below is for the second stage after I had already sprayed the white...
[ATTACH=CONFIG]n1113086[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]n1113087[/ATTACH]
The outcome was better than I had expected...I had to break off the weight stabilizers to let the mask lay flat. I will re-stick them after the process.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]n1113088[/ATTACH]
The wing top just needed only one process and mask for the black.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]n1113089[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]n1113090[/ATTACH]
Even the side balkenkruez worked out well as I was afraid the thinner outlines wouldn't cover properlly and be misaligned. Cutting out the lines not easy and it took me at least two hours for the masks.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]n1113091[/ATTACH]
I work on the swastika next and then the salvaged decal numerals and emblem. After that I will try some weathering.
I won't want to go through this again and will take more care with my decals the next time...perhaps store them in proper folders and away from moisture.
Cheers,
RichardComment
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Hi Richard
That has worked out extremely well. Time, skill and patience making the masks has payed off. I hope the decals you will use behave and not fall apart. Would it be worth copying and printing your own onto decal paper just incase things go badly?
As John says "You're a hard act to follow"
JimComment
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Thanks Scottie, Peter, Andrew, John, Mick, Jim and Steven...
I thought of doing something crazy and the free afternoon at the LHS work group chatting as we delved into our respective builds turned out well spent. The spraying session itself took only less than half an hour. I had thought of photocopying onto decal paper for the black layers but the yellowing of the film left a distinct shadow. I would have had to scan and traced an artwork for clean black lines to print. I opted for the crazy option.
The spraying fortunately for me doesn't leave any decal film. Seriously anyone can do this...they're all straight lines.
I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the varnish on the decals hold the prints that I need. I don't fancy masking numerals with compound curves. :smiling2:
Cheers,
RichardComment
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Well it had to happen. The decals misbehaved or should I say couldn't be saved...
Somehow moisture may have gotten into the plastic bag during the flood and perhaps the glue backing had dissolved so the decals have stuck fast to the backing paper. Even a coat of varnish didn't help.
Anyway I will have to resort to scan and draw the images and reprint on decal paper. The good thing is the Balkenkruez masks worked. The other possibility is to get AM decals if it's in the market.
I'll keep you posted on the progress.
Cheers,
RichardComment
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Decided to make new propellers...somebody accidentally left one of the cats in the room and it was mayhem again. Anyway even though one of the props was broken it had to be done as the earlier resin and reaction to the Cyano filling started to warp the props.
Using the slower curing clear resin makes a crispier cast with no filling except for a bubble near the tip of one of the props. Easy fill up with E7 green filler.
Even with primer the paint reacted to the resin in the older props. Also bubbling occured when painted. I have never encountered so much problems with a build such as this and it's no fault of the kit either.
It does look better dry fitted...now time for painting again.
Cheers,
RichardComment
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