54mm Charge of the Scots Greys

[Wouter]

That's more like it! That Ace Mr. B. tip sure did it!
If you think it's still too shiny you can always try a different one. Which matt do you use? I used Model Master flatt in the past and that one is really dead flat. Yesterday I tried the Gunze one and I like it's 'flattnes' as well.

Cheers

[Neil Merryweather]

Rick, John , Ian , Wouter - many thanks indeed!
I still need to get the yellow lines thinner but I understand the general technique now.
I am using Alclad Matt which has worked well in the past, even over Klear and decals - I must have thinned it too much, maybe?
Anyway, I 'm hoping to go for it today.
Fingers crossed!

[Jim R]

I think it'll do

Understatement of the year. It looks very good indeed.
Jim

[Neil Merryweather]

Understatement of the year. It looks very good indeed.
Jim

very kind, Jim, but it's not the real thing!
I've got to get it right on a much more complicated shape
But your confidence is encouraging,thanks

[Neil Merryweather]

So all the bits and pieces - including the kilt- are separated for painting and are primed


I've decided to go straight in for the kilt right away,in the hope that everything else will be downhill after that!


During the painting I have discovered a couple of lumps and bumps which will give me grief when trying to paint the lines, so I had better sort them out before I go any further
cheers
Neil

[Neil Merryweather]

I didn't get as far as I had hoped with the kilt- it's bl88dy difficult!




I think the exaggerated droop of the front (taken from the image) has required the pattern to radiate more than it really should, but if it wasn't for that we would probably see Jock's bits. Like much unseen interior detail , we know they are there, but in this case nobody really wants to see them, do they?
I did start painting some of the other parts as well. I've never left off the cross belts before, so I'm hoping that works out alright.



I hope to finish the kilt today, at least.
That's it for now, thanks for looking

[Wouter]

steady as she goes, nice progress. Slow is often better ^^

Cheers

[Guest]

That looks very good indeed Neil. I find myself that if there is a pattern, the drive is to get it perfect tends to outweigh other considerations, such as the fall of shadow and interruptions made by folds etc. Generally, if the lighting is right, the whole will look right.

[KarlW]

I have seen tartan decals, but I imagine with the pleats they would be worse to do than painting.
On my 28mm wargaming figures I omit the vertical stripes on the pleated section, but then I'm painting for something to look good passable from 3' away.

[Neil Merryweather]

That looks very good indeed Neil. I find myself that if there is a pattern, the drive is to get it perfect tends to outweigh other considerations, such as the fall of shadow and interruptions made by folds etc. Generally, if the lighting is right, the whole will look right.

cheers Peter,
I absolutely agree- I think you really only need to shade patterns at the larger scales.
I'm certainly not worrying about it (never mind CAPABLE) beyond the pre-shading, which has pretty much disappeared already!

[Neil Merryweather]

I have seen tartan decals, but I imagine with the pleats they would be worse to do than painting.
On my 28mm wargaming figures I omit the vertical stripes on the pleated section, but then I'm painting for something to look good passable from 3' away.

I can't imagine even contemplating tartan at 28mm! :flushed: :fearful:
Welcome, by the way

[KarlW]

I can't imagine even contemplating tartan at 28mm! :flushed: :fearful:
Welcome, by the way

It's just a matter of simplifiying it right down, more an impression than the actual pattern. I made a decision a while back that on my wargaming stuff I'm not painting figures but units, so not as much individual detailing. The stuff is going to be looked at from 3' mostly. Commanders might get a bit more attention, but not much.


And thanks for the welcome

[Gary MacKenzie]

[ATTACH]391507[/ATTACH]

What you are doing is way beyond me, but i think you may be worrying too much.
I swear that in the grime of battle that the yellow would be really hard to see, and at 6" the model would be same distance as a soldier at 16 ft ( 5 metres ish )

The dye would have been ''napthol yellow'' http://www.art-paints.com/Paints/Oil...ellow-Hue.html

[ATTACH]391508[/ATTACH]

[Neil Merryweather]

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What you are doing is way beyond me, but i think you may be worrying too much.
I swear that in the grime of battle that the yellow would be really hard to see, and at 6" the model would be same distance as a soldier at 16 ft ( 5 metres ish )

The dye would have been ''napthol yellow'' http://www.art-paints.com/Paints/Oil...ellow-Hue.html

[ATTACH=CONFIG]n1128278[/ATTACH]

Cheers Gary,
I am using modern re-enactors as my reference, on the assumption that they have done a lot of diligent research into their subject.
like this,for instance.

It also helps with understanding how the kit is actually worn, rather than the ideal, parade-ground regulation manner. And look how knackered their bonnets are compared to the illustrated(and model) versions.
I notice ,though , that these guys(and I swear that's a Gal in the middle) are wearing their sporrans, and way back in the beginnings of this thread somebody said they didn't wear them in battle, so I decided to leave it off.
Hmmmm, it would help disguise the lap problems:thinking:
As for worrying too much,thanks for the comforting thought, but believe me I am not a perfectionist, so when it's good enough I will be quite satisfied. That said, if you aim at nothing you invariably hit it!
Hopefully by aiming high I can A) get a reasonable impression of the tartan and B) improve my painting skills.
cheers and thanks for your input
Neil

[Gary MacKenzie]

There is no way you would run into battle with a sporran.
Think baby and baby shoes kicking a region of your body all the time ..........................