Moving swiftly along then.....this should be the last post on the figures for a while.
On to the shoulder boards....
As these are anti tank troops I’ve gone for copper brown as the piping colour. First thing to do then is paint the whole board in the chosen colour. I had previously outlined the board in a dark colour, but if I hadn’t then that would be the first job.
There are many painters that paint the interior colour of the board first then add thin lines for the piping. I also did this for many years, but found it difficult to control and almost impossible to successfully outline. The method I’m showing here works well at small scales.
Next job, paint the interior of the board in a dark colour. I’ve used black grey here. This enables you to make the piping line thin enough without worrying about overpaint on the previous uniform paint.
Last job is to paint the interior of the board in the dark green . Because of the previous dark interior you only have to tint the area.
These three stages mean that you are only ever painting straight lines and only trying to paint one straight edge. . Furthermore, because of the wet palette any over painting onto the uniforms can be corrected using mixes that are already there.
I have not painted the collar patches on these because they are too small. I would at 28mm, but not in smaller scales. If I did though, I would use a similar techniqu, cleaning any overpaint as I went.
This concludes the colour part of the painting. Next stages are varnish. I use gloss for protection and Matt for appearance, but I will not bother showing these in detail. I will gloss these and then ret to the vehicles for a while.
Lastly, a couple more points that may be of interest.
To mix Vallejo paint before use I have one of these:
I obtained this many years ago from a skip after a lab refurbishment at work. They can be bought on the net though, just look for vortex mixer or whirlymix. 30 seconds on that will mix paint thoroughly.
Brush cleaning is important, so here is a little more detail on my methods. I use this stuff:
It keeps brushes in excellent condition. You simply lather them up in the soap, rinse them well, repoint them, and replace the brush protector.
This brush is about a year old. It has been used for every stage of these figures. It’s not a great picture, but hopefully you can see how sharp the point remains.
it is one of these:
Not quite as good as Windsor an Newton series seven, but easily good enough for model painting.
This is how I store my good brushes....in the supplied bristle protector point downwards. This enables any residual moisture and paint traces to drain away from the ferrule. This minimises paint drying in the ferrule area and destroying the point. This, along with Masters soap, are almost entirely responsible for the longevity I get from my brushes.
Hope this is useful for you.
As always, any questions shout out.
Cheers
Tim
On to the shoulder boards....
As these are anti tank troops I’ve gone for copper brown as the piping colour. First thing to do then is paint the whole board in the chosen colour. I had previously outlined the board in a dark colour, but if I hadn’t then that would be the first job.
There are many painters that paint the interior colour of the board first then add thin lines for the piping. I also did this for many years, but found it difficult to control and almost impossible to successfully outline. The method I’m showing here works well at small scales.
Next job, paint the interior of the board in a dark colour. I’ve used black grey here. This enables you to make the piping line thin enough without worrying about overpaint on the previous uniform paint.
Last job is to paint the interior of the board in the dark green . Because of the previous dark interior you only have to tint the area.
These three stages mean that you are only ever painting straight lines and only trying to paint one straight edge. . Furthermore, because of the wet palette any over painting onto the uniforms can be corrected using mixes that are already there.
I have not painted the collar patches on these because they are too small. I would at 28mm, but not in smaller scales. If I did though, I would use a similar techniqu, cleaning any overpaint as I went.
This concludes the colour part of the painting. Next stages are varnish. I use gloss for protection and Matt for appearance, but I will not bother showing these in detail. I will gloss these and then ret to the vehicles for a while.
Lastly, a couple more points that may be of interest.
To mix Vallejo paint before use I have one of these:
I obtained this many years ago from a skip after a lab refurbishment at work. They can be bought on the net though, just look for vortex mixer or whirlymix. 30 seconds on that will mix paint thoroughly.
Brush cleaning is important, so here is a little more detail on my methods. I use this stuff:
It keeps brushes in excellent condition. You simply lather them up in the soap, rinse them well, repoint them, and replace the brush protector.
This brush is about a year old. It has been used for every stage of these figures. It’s not a great picture, but hopefully you can see how sharp the point remains.
it is one of these:
Not quite as good as Windsor an Newton series seven, but easily good enough for model painting.
This is how I store my good brushes....in the supplied bristle protector point downwards. This enables any residual moisture and paint traces to drain away from the ferrule. This minimises paint drying in the ferrule area and destroying the point. This, along with Masters soap, are almost entirely responsible for the longevity I get from my brushes.
Hope this is useful for you.
As always, any questions shout out.
Cheers
Tim
Comment