A lot of work has gone into that paint job and it's certainly been worth while. You have definitely got rid of the monotone look.
Jakko’s 1:35 Dragon Sd.Kfz. 251
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Not really, if I’m honestOverall washes are pretty quick to apply, which is part of why I prefer them to pin washes — I tried that, and for starters it’s far too laborious for my taste. Aside from that they never seemed to really blend into the surrounding area when I tried it, which an overall wash does automatically. Of course, the downside to putting a wash over the whole model is that it changes the colour everywhere to some degree or other, so it often takes a little experimentation on the underside to find one that works.
I never used to see the point of painting this way, but when I now compare my old models with ones painted like this, I must say I much prefer this style. Painting an AFV in a single colour might be realistic, but it doesn’t look realistic. However, I don’t think it should be overdone, with much paler upper sides than lowers. A little goes a long way.Comment
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Looking good Jakko. The washes/filters have modulated the finish quite nicely. Very necessary on a single colour vehicle or they can just look like a monolithic slab.
Pin washes need a gloss finish and non water based paint to work best from my experience. Definitely a slow job though. It needs a sharp brush and dilute paint. It also helps prevent “coffee staining” if you moisten the model surface with thinners before starting out.Comment
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AllenLife's to short to be a sheep...Comment
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And I think you have done a great job, not only with the color, but with the washes and dry brushing too. I would think that in a tropical climate, the rain, humidity, sun, and heat will erode the original paint color quite quickly. I think you've nailed it rather well.
It’s not as matt as it was after I sprayed the green, but still acceptably so. In any case, this way of painting tends to turn models matt anyway — the Mr. Aqueous Hobby paint I use a lot for OD nowadays dries semigloss, but after a wash and drybrush, there is usually very little of that partial shine left.Comment
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With the painting finished, I added decals and then began to add dirt and grime.
Starting with the decals, I dug through my spare decals box and found two French Indochina registration plates on the sheet of the Italeri M24 Chaffee kit, so I stuck them on. (French plates being rather rare in my collection, I was glad I found at least these that start with IC like in the photo of the real thing.)
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The dirt is mainly a couple of washes of a few reddish-brown acrylic paints thinned with water, mixed so they cover fairly evenly without accumulating in all the nooks and crannies too much. The colour was chosen after I searched for soil colours in Vietnam, and found that fairly large parts of the north of the country have yellowish-red soil. I only applied the washes to the underside and the overhanging rear plate, though, as I want to show this vehicle as fairly clean.
When these were dry, I heavily drybrushed more of the same colour, unthinned, to represent dirt thrown onto the vehicle by the wheels, and then followed it with a much lighter drybrush of a sand colour to make highlights/dried mud.
It shows better on the real model than in these photos, though.
I also added the wash to the wheels and tracks:
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First, i had painted all the rubber parts dark grey and put a wash of thinned-down Indian ink over those. When that had dried, I added the dirt wash and then drybrushed the rubber with dark grey again (after the wash had dried, of course). The insides of the track were instead drybrushed with a medium-dark metallic colour and then with a lighter one, as little dirt would accumulate here due to all the wheels riding over it.Comment
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