Eduard 1/48th Scale Tempest Mk.V (Geoff's D-Day GB)

[Guest]

Hello guys, here is my kit, just taken some images of the box and sprues.

After a reading of the instructions, I'm already shaking in my boots at the thought of tangling with PE ..Eeek!!

[A_J_Rimmer]

Lovely subject Steve.

Just a thought regarding the PE (I can't stand the stuff either). It might be worth looking over the instructions and/or the sprues. It might be that a lot of the PE parts have also been injection moulded. I think that's something Eduard do with all their various boxings - e.g. the weekend edition of this kit wouldn't have the PE. It might not apply to all the metal parts but it might well cover some of them.

This might help - it's the instructions for the weekend edition.

https://www.scalemates.com/products/img/4/0/8/1469408-92-instructions.pdf

[Guest]

I was going to say much the same: chances are you get both plastic and etched parts, so you don’t have to use the etched parts if you don’t want to. Could be that you only get the etched ones, of course — I don’t know for sure, as I’ve never built an Eduard kit. (MiniArt is an example of the latter: they don’t supply any plastic alternatives when they give you etched parts, which IMHO is not great.)

[Guest]

I've been looking through it, I don't see any plastic parts for the PE.
also had a closer look at the PE ...I'm shaking in my boots now haha!

[Geoffers]

Looking at the instructions on Scalemates Steve a lot of the pe is optional.
Unfortunately from what I can see the rudder pedals are not .
Have a go at building them up but don’t get to disheartened if you struggle with them as realistically they will hardly be seen once it’s all buttoned up.
Shout out if you need any advice on dealing with pe.

Geoff.

[vizenz]

I've been looking through it, I don't see any plastic parts for the PE.
also had a closer look at the PE ...I'm shaking in my boots now haha

At some point you will be confronted with this. See it as a challenge. And as far as I can tell, these should be good parts to start with - no large bending edges or confusingly constructed components made of lots of PE parts. You will manage it, I'm sure of it! :thumb2:

[Guest]

Would you believe the first step has PE.. Jeez Eduard, you could have broke me into it gently. haha

[Guest]

Three times now I've sat down to start, took a look at the PE which is needed in step 1 and walked away.
I need to build up the courage to actually start, thankfully though we have a lot of time.

[A_J_Rimmer]

Three times now I've sat down to start, took a look at the PE which is needed in step 1 and walked away.
I need to build up the courage to actually start, thankfully though we have a lot of time.

Just one thing to note Steve - it's a Tempest. Even in 1/48, once the canopy is closed absolutely bugger all of the cockpit will be visible, so feel free to add the basics and ignore all the detail parts if that's not what you're into.

I once built an Airfix 1/48 Spitfire and left out all the interior other than the seat and the IP and nobody noticed, not even when they had it in the hand.

[Waspie]

You'll be fine with PE Steve. Have a look over some of Mikes aka Scratchbuilder, posts, he has done some tutorials. All you need are a few basic tools and patience. I dreaded my first leap into PE but after the first couple of bends!! It turned out fine.

[colin m]

These profi-pack kits are brilliant. This is the one I was going to build in this GB. Photo etch and masks for the glazing. Not to mention a very well detailed kit. All you need is paint and glue. Great stuff.

[Scratchbuilder]

That PE will not be a problem.
Instrument Panel - use pva to cement the top to the instrument, it will alsi once dry provice the 'glass' for the instruments...
Seat belts - try to bend them as near to shape before you place them.
#23, 24 Hold the middle part with a flat file or similar and then bend the two parts with the hole in using a flat blade slid under it and then rotate the blade to make the bend. Then fold over the flat piece.
Cutting parts from the 'sprue' you may find that with this Eduard 'brass' a pair of side cutters are better than a sharp blade, it seems to be a bit harder metal.
And if you do cut with side cutters - do it inside one of the plastic bags to save losing the part.
#7, 9 go onto #8 position these before cutting out #8, then add the centre inst part #E30 and then #14, 11 and 10 in that order..
On section 'E' if you have a drill bit small enough you could drill some locating holes ready for the levers...
To pick up the small parts you could use the tip of a pointed blade, (easier than fingers) dab of c/a first on location and then add part so it touches and the c/a takes over and any slight adjustment can be made...
Any questions just ask.
HTH
Cheers
Mike

[Guest]

Well I can honestly report that I've started now.. thanks for the info

[Lee Drennen]

PE

Me and that stuff never could get along so I stay way from it like the plague.

[Guest]

Me and that stuff never could get along so I stay way from it like the plague.

This is going to be my stance from now. Never really tackled it before but after a day working with it, losing bits, finding them and working on them again, I'm utterly exhausted and have almost nothing to show for it. This is a good lesson for me, I will steer clear of it for sure in future, this isn't my idea of fun! Crikey