Jakko’s Tyrrell P34, Tamiya 1/20

[Jim R]

Good progress Jakko. I've built a few larger scale cars over the years and I reckon the worst aspect is fitting ready painted parts without glue marks and getting a decent gloss finish.
That pe rear wing looks good. I didn't realise that pe could be a metal other than brass.
The engine looks nicely detailed.

[Andy T]

That's looking like a very nice kit that your putting together very well. The rear wing structure is a thing of beauty.

I've built a few Tamiya kits where their included PE was stainless steel. This could be the same.

[HAWKERHUNTER]

Great job on the rear spoiler/wing and end plates.

[Guest]

I've built a few larger scale cars over the years and I reckon the worst aspect is fitting ready painted parts without glue marks and getting a decent gloss finish.

That’s the bit that’s probably going to be difficult for me, being used to wanting things as matt as possible

I didn't realise that pe could be a metal other than brass.

Just about any metal can be photo-etched, really — all it needs is to be susceptible to an acid, and nearly all metals are. OK, photo-etching something like gold will be tricky …

That's looking like a very nice kit

To be fair, I have been informed on Scalemates that this is everything but a nice kit

Yeah, this probably isn't the kit you want to start your F1 collection with, it's really bad. I don't know if you've gotten to the gearbox or worse still; the exhausts, but none of it lines up properly. Those early Tamiya kits were BAD compared to the later kits. From about the BT 46 going on is when the quality improved. M23, JS11, Lotus 78, 312T, Wolf and this P34 were all more glorified toys than models.

that your putting together very well. The rear wing structure is a thing of beauty.

Thanks — though I photographed it so you can’t see the glue smear

I've built a few Tamiya kits where their included PE was stainless steel. This could be the same.

It might well be, yes. It’s pretty hard and springy, very shiny, and the instructions tell you specifically to use a diamond file to remove the tabs where it connects to the fret. I’ve never seen brass etched parts in a Tamiya kit, but the ones I remember from the past were never this shiny.

[Scratchbuilder]

Sorry I am late, chair now in position... Can remember the real thing at Silverstone and the 1/12th version from Tamiya, so looking forward to your usual quality build.

[Andy T]

To be fair, I have been informed on Scalemates that this is everything but a nice kit :smiling3:

Wow, looks must be deceiving as it appears fine from this side of the camera. Good luck!

By the way, I didn't realise one could post builds on scalemates.

[scottie3158]

Very neat work mate. If it is stainless I can see the advantage it would be far more rigid given the scale.

[colin m]

What a great and unusual subject. Splendid engine, I do like a nice engine, although I'm normally referring to an aircraft engine, but the Cosworth DFV, will do nice.

[Guest]

Thanks once more, all

By the way, I didn't realise one could post builds on scalemates.

You can make projects and photo albums if you go to your “own” page by clicking on your username at top right, then clicking on Projects or Albums in the button bar near the top of the page.

If you just want to post photos with captions, an album is enough, but IMHO it’s better to make a project as well because you can put multiple albums into a single project (so that, say, when you’re building a diorama you can have a photo album for each of the vehicle builds, for the figures, and for the base) and you can link kits to the project so that people can see what you used for it. Once you have a couple of projects, you can also make collections to group those together into themes.

If it is stainless I can see the advantage it would be far more rigid given the scale.

I too think this rear wing would be fairly vulnerable if it was brass. The whole thing is about 54 × 39 × 29 mm, and won’t have much strength sideways between the levels of the support structure and the actual wings, I suspect, if it was made of brass. Especially when you get modellers who’ll anneal it as a matter of course

[Guest]

Question: the rear tyres have a big mould seam running down the middle. I’ve tried removing it with a sharp knife but only succeeded in taking a little bit off. How would I go about getting rid of it entirely so the tyre looks like a slick?

[Tim Marlow]

I too think this rear wing would be fairly vulnerable if it was brass. The whole thing is about 54 × 39 × 29 mm, and won’t have much strength sideways between the levels of the support structure and the actual wings, I suspect, if it was made of brass. Especially when you get modellers who’ll anneal it as a matter of course :smiling3:

It probably is stainless, it has that brightness to it. It doesn’t look yellow enough for nickel silver, which is the other common ‘silver‘ metal used for etch. It’s a good job you didn’t try to solder it. That stuff only solders with specialist flux. Never know why anyone anneals brass unless you are making reverse curves. Every other shape is more easily and cleanly formed with half hard brass.

Car is looking good though :thumb2:

[scottie3158]

Question: the rear tyres have a big mould seam running down the middle. I’ve tried removing it with a sharp knife but only succeeded in taking a little bit off. How would I go about getting rid of it entirely so the tyre looks like a slick?

The only thing I can suggest is the way I clean up rubber wheels is to use a fresh bit of scotchbrite other forms of pan scourer are available. It also takes the shine of the plastic.

[Guest]

I think the engine/transmission/rear suspension is finally done:

[ATTACH]511427[/ATTACH][ATTACH]511428[/ATTACH][ATTACH]511429[/ATTACH]

Well, other than the mesh thing that goes on top of the air intakes for, apparently, the particular GP that’s represented in this kit. A few things were tricky because I had made things difficult for myself by glueing the gearbox to the engine slightly too soon, but I got the bits to fit in between. One thing that is not at all clear in the instructions, BTW, is that the two bits of vinyl hose sticking out of the engine (they will go to the radiators later on) appear to have to go between the exhaust pipes and the engine block, not over the exhausts as I originally tried to put them. That made it impossible to install the rear springs, but luckily the glue hadn’t dried yet on the elbows that connect the hoses to the engine.

[scottie3158]

Jakko, nice job.

[Guest]

The only thing I can suggest is the way I clean up rubber wheels is to use a fresh bit of scotchbrite other forms of pan scourer are available. It also takes the shine of the plastic.

Hmm … I will have to see if I have something like that somewhere … I kind of doubt it, but I may be able to scrounge something up.