Well, at long last, the Honey is complete.
First, I would like to make a few comments about the kit itself. This is the first Academy armor kit I have built. Overall, I would have to say that this kit was a very fun kit to build. There were no fit issues at all. Flash and mold seams weren't bad... a few places here and there, but nothing a modeller with a basic skill set couldn't handle with ease.
I know there is usually lots of discussion (and disagreement) pertaining to tracks... individual link vs. "rubberband" style tracks. This kit comes with both. The rubberband tracks (actually vinyl,) are very well detailed. They are molded very cleanly and there were only a few little mold dots on the inside of the tracks. these were easily removed with a hobby knife.
The individual track links are really nice. They are nicely detailed, and the only thing that needs to be cleaned up on the individual parts, are the sprue attachment points. Each track consists of the track pads and end connectors. Each pad has three points that attach to the sprue, and the end connectors have two points of attachment. That would be a lot of cleanup. The nice thing though, is that the way they assemble, they are totally flexible and stay together without cement, which means that they would be very easy to install on the tank, then cement could be applied.
All that said, I opted to use the vinyl tracks. They are very well detailed (as good as the individual track parts) and much easier to use. If this were a German vehicle that has tracks that usually sagged in real life, I might have considered using the individuals. But since US tanks had "live" tracks that were under tension at all times, thereby lacking sag, I went the easier route...vinyl.
The one weak spot on the vinyl tracks are the attachment points. There are two very small pins on one end of the track that go through two tiny holes on the other end of the track. What is supposed to happen, is once the pins are through the holes, a heated screwdriver, knife, or whatever, is heated then pressed on the protruding pins to join the two ends together. I found that this created a weak joint that looked deformed when under tension. So, I reverted to the old tried and true method of using needle and thread to reinforce the joint. Since there are dust skirts on this particular vehicle, the thread (hardly noticeable at all) would be hidden.
For this kit, I used Vallejo primer and paint. I have been very pleased with Vallejo's primer, Model Air, and Model Color paints. They have all worked exactly as expected right out of the bottle, and have performed beautifully out of the airbrush, or off paint brushes. The only non-Vallejo products I used, were Testor's Dullcoat Lacquer and Windsor Newton oils for the washes.
The worst part of this kit, however, were the decals. They are very thick and don't conform to surface detail at all. Using my usual application process, I determined that any decals that were going where there were surface irregularities (i.e., rivets) would be unusable. Fortunately, I was able to duplicate the decal design with paint and airbrush.
As I stated in my first post about this kit, I wanted to try some new, or different techniques. I tend to under-weather my models for fear of messing them up, but figured I would give it a go this time.
For this model, I finally cracked and got some artist's oils for the wash. I normally use thinned Testor's Model Master enamels, but have heard for years (beginning with good, old Shepard Paine) that artist's oils are superior. After using them, I have to agree.
Another technique I have never used, is chipping. Hard to believe, I know, but I finally did it. I have to say with all modesty, that the results turned out better than I had hoped.
So, without further adieu, here are some photos. Feel free to comment, and stay tuned for the next project.
[ATTACH]111165.IPB[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]111166.IPB[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]111167.IPB[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]111168.IPB[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]111169.IPB[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]111170.IPB[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]111171.IPB[/ATTACH]
First, I would like to make a few comments about the kit itself. This is the first Academy armor kit I have built. Overall, I would have to say that this kit was a very fun kit to build. There were no fit issues at all. Flash and mold seams weren't bad... a few places here and there, but nothing a modeller with a basic skill set couldn't handle with ease.
I know there is usually lots of discussion (and disagreement) pertaining to tracks... individual link vs. "rubberband" style tracks. This kit comes with both. The rubberband tracks (actually vinyl,) are very well detailed. They are molded very cleanly and there were only a few little mold dots on the inside of the tracks. these were easily removed with a hobby knife.
The individual track links are really nice. They are nicely detailed, and the only thing that needs to be cleaned up on the individual parts, are the sprue attachment points. Each track consists of the track pads and end connectors. Each pad has three points that attach to the sprue, and the end connectors have two points of attachment. That would be a lot of cleanup. The nice thing though, is that the way they assemble, they are totally flexible and stay together without cement, which means that they would be very easy to install on the tank, then cement could be applied.
All that said, I opted to use the vinyl tracks. They are very well detailed (as good as the individual track parts) and much easier to use. If this were a German vehicle that has tracks that usually sagged in real life, I might have considered using the individuals. But since US tanks had "live" tracks that were under tension at all times, thereby lacking sag, I went the easier route...vinyl.
The one weak spot on the vinyl tracks are the attachment points. There are two very small pins on one end of the track that go through two tiny holes on the other end of the track. What is supposed to happen, is once the pins are through the holes, a heated screwdriver, knife, or whatever, is heated then pressed on the protruding pins to join the two ends together. I found that this created a weak joint that looked deformed when under tension. So, I reverted to the old tried and true method of using needle and thread to reinforce the joint. Since there are dust skirts on this particular vehicle, the thread (hardly noticeable at all) would be hidden.
For this kit, I used Vallejo primer and paint. I have been very pleased with Vallejo's primer, Model Air, and Model Color paints. They have all worked exactly as expected right out of the bottle, and have performed beautifully out of the airbrush, or off paint brushes. The only non-Vallejo products I used, were Testor's Dullcoat Lacquer and Windsor Newton oils for the washes.
The worst part of this kit, however, were the decals. They are very thick and don't conform to surface detail at all. Using my usual application process, I determined that any decals that were going where there were surface irregularities (i.e., rivets) would be unusable. Fortunately, I was able to duplicate the decal design with paint and airbrush.
As I stated in my first post about this kit, I wanted to try some new, or different techniques. I tend to under-weather my models for fear of messing them up, but figured I would give it a go this time.
For this model, I finally cracked and got some artist's oils for the wash. I normally use thinned Testor's Model Master enamels, but have heard for years (beginning with good, old Shepard Paine) that artist's oils are superior. After using them, I have to agree.
Another technique I have never used, is chipping. Hard to believe, I know, but I finally did it. I have to say with all modesty, that the results turned out better than I had hoped.
So, without further adieu, here are some photos. Feel free to comment, and stay tuned for the next project.
[ATTACH]111165.IPB[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]111166.IPB[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]111167.IPB[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]111168.IPB[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]111169.IPB[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]111170.IPB[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]111171.IPB[/ATTACH]
Comment