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  • Marcello
    • Apr 2018
    • 102

    #1

    Zimmerit

    Morning gentle SM people,
    I am almost ready to start my next build, Tamiya's Tiger I mid prod. I have not even opened the bags, but for what I can see looks like the usual Tamiya standard. The box shows a nice zimmerit coat however the tank model itself is smooth like a baby's skin. My intent is to build it OOB but nevertheless I like to try to cover it with zimmerit.
    Before attempting on the real thing, I tried some materials on some plastic and I would appreciate any comments and suggestions from all of you.
    The first attempt is done with Tamika putty )the grey one) and then scribed on it once dried with the back of a scalpel blade.
    [ATTACH]305206[/ATTACH]
    for the second attempt I have used mulliput and created the patter using the back of the same blade going really random as if the zimmerit was applied on the field
    [ATTACH]305207[/ATTACH]
    [ATTACH]305208[/ATTACH]
    Last attempt was done using wood filler, and I created the pattern as for the milliput one
    [ATTACH]305209[/ATTACH]
    my personal preference goes to the milliput one also because I find more easy to sculpt the pattern. The first one looks more geometrical to me and doesn't give the idea of something done on the field maybe in the middle of a critical campaign.... I didn't find the wood filler to work for me.
    Any suggestions, is there any other options I should consider. Which one do you recon can make the work?
    Cheers
    Marcello
    Attached Files
  • Tim Marlow
    SMF Supporters
    • Apr 2018
    • 18891
    • Tim
    • Somerset UK

    #2
    Hi Marcello
    I would think a mid-period tiger would have factory applied Zim, so it would be pretty tidy. I have only done this once and I used white milliput. Mind you, that was Stug waffle pattern so you couldn’t scribe it in afterwards......
    You can get stamps and rollers to make the patterning easier as well. I would say the most useful thing you could do is look at loads of pictures to get a handle on the patterning.
    Cheers
    Tim

    Comment

    • Allen Dewire
      SMF Supporters
      • Apr 2018
      • 4741
      • Allen
      • Bamberg

      #3
      Morning Marcello,

      Tim has given you some great advice for doing it yourself and miliput will work well. Me, I'm a lazier sort and would recommend after market Zimmerit from Atack, Cavalier (hard to find), DEF (Academy), or something similar. Eduard brass Zimmerit is also an option but hard to glue on the model and heavy in weight.

      It looks like you want to apply it yourself, so have fun. After all, that's what it's all about!

      Prost
      Allen
      Life's to short to be a sheep...

      Comment

      • Guest

        #4
        I prefer using regular putty (from a tube) and drag the teeth of a modeller’s saw blade across it to make the ridges. Make sure you use a putty that’s dry when it comes from the tube — it shouldn’t have a wet appearance or feel sticky — and work on small areas at a time so the putty doesn’t harden before you get to it. Difficult to reach areas can be textured with the tip of a spatula or hobby knife.

        I’ve used Eduard etched Zimmerit on one model (a Hasegawa Jagdpanzer IV, because it came with the etched parts) and I wasn’t overly impressed, especially because some pieces had a tendency to pull away from the surface they’re glued to.

        Comment

        • spanner570
          SMF Supporters
          • May 2009
          • 15384

          #5
          Hi Marcello.
          Also, how about just using ordinary white household filler mixed with thinned pva. Work quickly and scribe on the zimmerit with your modelling scalpel.

          Both these were done in the above fashion.

          [ATTACH]305217[/ATTACH]

          [ATTACH]305218[/ATTACH]

          I hope this is of some help.

          Ron
          Attached Files

          Comment

          • Marcello
            • Apr 2018
            • 102

            #6
            hi all,
            great advice from all of you, much appreciated. As Allens says, I would like to try myself something never tried before rather than going with aftermarket options. Tim, I was thinking of white milliput as well, not sure why I find easier to work with the standard one. Although more accurate to go with a factory based sim, I think I will prefer the inaccuracy of crew spending some time on the field to cover their tank with some stuff :smiling:.
            Ron, I followed your blog and saw your wonderful result. Tried your suggestion on a piece of plasticard, but didn't work for me. Very likely wrong PVA/filler or wrong filler (Polyfilla multipurpose).
            Anyway, as soon as I progress a little bit will post some pictures and try to blog this built.
            Cheers
            Marcello

            Comment

            • JR
              • May 2015
              • 18273

              #7
              Hi Marcello.
              I was hoping Ron would post on this, I remember his blog well . Pity it didn't work for you , as you say maybe the wrong mix .
              In the meantime will make myself comfortable and await the outcome .:thumb2:
              John .

              Comment

              • Guest

                #8
                Originally posted by Marcello
                I was thinking of white milliput as well, not sure why I find easier to work with the standard one.
                Probably because it’s much finer and easier to knead together. I’d still pick just about any other brand than Milliput myself, though

                Comment

                • spanner570
                  SMF Supporters
                  • May 2009
                  • 15384

                  #9
                  Marcello - I think you might have got the mix a bit wrong, just keep at it and experiment. Don't mix it too thick.

                  If you are thinking of having another bash at it here are two very important points - Prime just where the stuff is going with PVA first and let this dry. Once the paste is applied you have to work very quickly, or it will start to dry too much and then drag.

                  It also helps having cold plastic to work with because this slows down the curing process. Put the model in the fridge for half an hour - Seriously!

                  Ron
                  P.S. I hope you didn't mind me posting the pictures.

                  Comment

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