Airbrushing advice needed for camo pattern (Panzerhaubitze 2000)

[Guest]

Hi Folks,

Could anyone help with the following questions Im relatively new to modelling but have progressed quite a bit recently and still have many, many questions.

1) When doing the camo pattern should the camo edge have a hard or soft edge when airbrushing? I was contemplating using panzerputty any other advice would be appreciated.

2) When the first base coat is down do I need to add a protective clear coat of any sort for the second colour to be airbrushed (First camo pattern after the base coat)? just wondering if the panzer putty will stick to the base coat or mark it in any way if I dont?

Hope that makes sense

Thanks in Advance

Adam

[Tim Marlow]

Hi Adam
Never used panzer putty, but I’m sure someone will be along in a minute that has.....
As to the camouflage pattern, to be honest it depends on the item being camouflaged. Some are hard edged and some are soft edged. You need to look carefully at references to see what is required. If you are unsure if something had hard or soft camo, ask the question. Someone will know.
Cheers
Tim

[Mr Bowcat]

Hi Adam,

I don't clear coat the base before applying the camo colours. assuming you are using the same type of paint (acrylic, enamel, etc).

[Guest]

1) When doing the camo pattern should the camo edge have a hard or soft edge when airbrushing? I was contemplating using panzerputty any other advice would be appreciated.

The PzH 2000 is finished in the NATO three-colour pattern, and that has almost, but not quite, hard-edged camouflage. It’s soft enough to be noticeable in 1/35th scale, but the overspray of a typical airbrush is probably too much to be realistic, so masking it off with Blu-Tack or similar (I assume that’s what this “panzerputty” is) is probably your best choice.

Do remember that the camouflage pattern on this kind of modern equipment is basically identical on all vehicles — it’s not like the patches are randomly applied, or that the painter has much allowance for deviation. Basically, to be accurate you’ll want to follow the pattern shown in the kit’s instructions as closely as you can (unless you have good reason to believe that is wrong, of course ).

2) When the first base coat is down do I need to add a protective clear coat of any sort for the second colour to be airbrushed (First camo pattern after the base coat)? just wondering if the panzer putty will stick to the base coat or mark it in any way if I dont?

I have no idea, but you can test it by painting a bit of an old model or a leftover part from the kit you’re building with the paint you intend to use, let it dry, and then stick the putty to it. Leave it to sit for a while and pull it off, see what happens.

[Guest]

Thanks guy's. Really useful Info. Best wishes Adam

[JR]

Adam.
I used the Panzer Putty that Tim mentioned. iI'd never dared do any camo until I tried the putty, easy to use , like all things new you need time to get to used to it.I went straight in, no problems, and certainly no bleed. It's now back in it's tin awaiting its next use.
If I remember right I just painted the main colour then after a day or two put the putty on , sprayed. Let it dry and removed the putty, to my relief it came off , leaving the paint with a clean edge.
I sprayed the colour up to the edge and over the , making sure that the edge of the putty was well in contact with the body.That way it stopped any creep of paint.


Then finish with a coat of varnish. Ok Its only a two colour pattern , but it worked .
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Hope this helps .
John .

[Guest]

Brilliant John thanks, this is the first time that I have ventured into camo. So your input is really appreciated and reassuring. Adam

[JR]

Adam go for it.
I held the putty in my hand and the warmth helps to spread it out. When you remove it the over spray seems to be absorbed, don't know how many times it could be used be fore you would need to replace. For me a long long time :smiling: .Lets know how you get on .

Dave Ward earlier this week did a post where he had used masks, very complex, most nerve racking by the look of it , but a great finish.

John.

[Guest]

Adam,

I've used this putty many times (50+) and it doesn't show any signs of breaking down so you have plenty of time left in yours. I've also found (with some practice) you can get both a soft edge or a hard edge. It just depends on how much paint you shoot at the putty's contact point with the plastic. If you shoot directly at that edge you get a hard edge. If you shoot just a small amount and you don't focus on the edge you can get a soft edge. I've probably mucked up my description but trust me with practice you can get both types of edges.

Ray

[JR]

That I would say Ray is a good description of using it.
John

[Guest]

John,

Thanks to you. I don't post much but when something works I don't mind giving it an endorsement.

Ray

[minitnkr]

You don't say what theater. What I've seen in middle east on multi-colored BW vehicles is less uniform & hard edged than the NATO Europe schemes. Likely field expedient applications. PaulE

[BarryW]

I thoroughly recommend Panzer Putty or Clever Putty ornonenof the other brands of this type of camo material.

It is easy to use and it sinks into the detail helping prevent bleed. Because it is so sticky it can be used for touch ups over decals.

Because I build 1/32 scale aircraft I have two tins and have used it many times. Ideal for RAF camo in particular.

[Guest]

You don't say what theater. What I've seen in middle east on multi-colored BW vehicles is less uniform & hard edged than the NATO Europe schemes. Likely field expedient applications.

Looking at some photos, the sand-coloured paint looks fairly well-sprayed to me, not field-expedient standard but more military paintshop applying sand over black and brown, like this example:



Perhaps a bit more overspray than on factory-finished vehicles but not that much, IMHO.