Bronco or Masterclub Single Link Tracks

[AlanG]

Looking at getting some different tracks for my Panther G (and possibly on a Jagdpanther too) as i want to use something different to the Tamiya vinyl tracks.

Just read about someone using the Tamiya single link tracks and they didn't recommend them. Anyone had any experience with Bronco or Masterclub ones?

[Tim Marlow]

I used the Tamiya single links on a Panther G a few years ago and never experienced any issues at all Alan. Not used Bronco or Masterclub though.

[BattleshipBob]

Same as Tim, but would suggest slow drying cement

[adt70hk]

Alan

I've used Bronco once. Can't reply now properly but they were ok.

Will try and reply properly.tomorrow

Andrew

[JR]

Hi Alan I've used Masterclub, they use a resin pin to enable the join. You need patience to sit and attempt to get the parts to join !
Has a nicely detailed head, as opposed to .4 mm wire as used with Fruil.
The first time I bought Masterclub they were perfect, but the next two times resulted in having resin pins that were misshapen .
Steve Jones and Is it me Mike have had similar problems with the pins, think Mike resorted to using wire .
Hope this helps .






.4 wire as used in

[Ian M]

I have found the bronco tracks to be pretty god. Have used them on five or six builds...

[adt70hk]

Hi Alan

Better late than never....

I've only ever done one set of individual link tracks, which was a Bronco set. Moulded pretty well and not much flash. My main issue was that I needed almost 100 per side and they had a left and a right handedness to them!!! :tired: :crying:

In all seriousness, the real problem was that although they articulated well, the way they clipped together - no pins and not multiple parts - was that the link was not robust enough to stay joined in long lengths when put under any kind of tension. I solved the problem with a single run of masking tape and TET, allowing me to curve them around the wheels, idler and sprocket to mould them into a single run. I was aided by the fact that I could remove the road wheels idler and sprockets. In my case it would have help if I'd not glued the return rollers in either.

Full details can be found on my of threads, starting here - though you will have to scroll down a bit to see the relevant posts: https://www.scale-models.co.uk/threa...16/post-548966

HTH

ATB

Andrew