Airfix 1:72 Willys MB Jeep

[pjgtech]

My next project to keep on learning all about this model painting , weathering mallarkey.
I bought a few of these little 1:72 models from Aldi/Lidl, can't remember which?
They are so small and cheap that I will not be too bothered about getting it wrong, its all about the experience and the learning from my mistakes.
Some pics before the build starts.....

[PaulTRose]

This is a great little kit

Enjoy

[Andy T]

I bet that's a tiddler! I built a 1/35 and that was pretty small.

No wonder you were asking about magnifiers ?

[Jim R]

These kits represent great value for money and fit together nicely to make fine models. I look forward to seeing how you get on.

[scottie3158]

Andy,
I will follow along mate, not that you need to learn anything about model painting.

[pjgtech]

Update:
Ok, so learning from my first model (Tiger 1:72) I am now going slower, with my second model (Willys Jeep 1:72), boy its small!
This time I am painting what I can on the sprue, taking my time, applying more than one coat of paint, doing the small fiddly bits much more carefully.
Ist go at the wheels went ok, still a bit ham fisted, but by the time I'd done a few (9 in all!) was getting much better, still have to tidy them up a bit, but getting there.
Here's pics of the first coat (very patchy) and then the second coat, not so patchy and getting darker.
I am thinning the paint with some thinners(about 25% thinners to 75%paint), but may go a bit more than that with next coats, (40/60)?
Can I thin acrylics with water, or does it have to be thinners?

[Tim Marlow]

Looking good. In answer to your question, yes, but once you go past a certain dilution they will break down (only you can find that out by trial and error). If you want to make a wash or such you are better using glaze medium to thin the paint because that makes it more fluid, but contains the matrix that binds the paint so it doesn’t break down.

[Valeron]

I thin Vallejo (model colour mostly) with tap water and have no problems but as Tim says beyond a certain level of thinning the paints become unusable. I find with Vallejo it varies dramatically between different paint colours.

Interesting what Tim says about the Glaze medium properties. I see Vallejo have lots of mediums but I've never used them and don't really understand them. This is something I should look into.

[Jim R]

I also noted Tim's suggestion. I have not considered Glaze Medium, never heard of it to be honest. Like you - something to look into.

[Andy T]

Hopefully Tim will correct me if I'm wrong but I think of (and use) glaze medium like a transparent paint, which will reduce the opacity of your colour when mixed in, without having to over thin it.

[pjgtech]

Build update:
Ok so its all built, but not quite finished yet.......boy was this small!
I thought the Tiger tank 1:72 scale was small, but no, THIS is small! Lol.... ?

Anyway gave all the bits a final 3rd coat on the sprues, all looked ok, quite nice coverage, etc. (See 1st photo)
So far just used the Airfix mini pots of paint as supplied with the starter kit.

Then started the actual build, all went well, got to the end and realised I had not stuck the dash in the jeep! Oh well, its still a learning curve for me.
Quickly realised that when taking parts off the sprue, and then filing down any sticky out bits (what are they called?) this takes off the paint you so carefully painted on, Doh! (see 2nd photo)
But, obviously most of the paint is still on the model, so it just meant that I had to go round during and after the build touching up all the areas where paint had come off after filing down. Lesson learnt... ?

I have not weathered this one at all, but I think I may give it a wash of dirt/grease/fuel type finish, don't want it looking too clean!
So far I have not yet attached the transfers either. Will probably do that tomorrow.
This kit gives the option of two versions, British Airbourne, complete with parachute "crate" and rear jeep mounted machine gun, or US Army, complete with canvas roof. I went for the British one, although there only seems to be transfers with US decals?

Enough waffling, here some pics, bearing in mind how bloody tiny this was, I'm quite please with it, as I say may have a play with some weathering tomorrow?
Last photo is the Willys jeep group next to the Tiger tank (same scale, but you can see how tiny it is).....

[pjgtech]

I've also realised that painting first, then glueing seems to show up the glue a lot more! (Using Revell glue), and the glue has "reacted" with some of the (Airfix) paint!
So I suppose I could just paint parts on the sprue but try to avoid any edge areas etc that will be glued.
Or do peeps just remove from sprue first then paint as they go through the build? Cheers

[Jim R]

Bet you're pleased with that. Enjoyed the process and learned a lot as well.
The whole issue of when in the building you need to paint is quite an issue. Personally I rarely paint on the sprue for two reasons. Firstly, as you found, the paint is removed when the joint nib is cleaned up. Secondly I like to dry fit parts before glueing and again any fit adjustments take off paint. I try to build up as much as I can before painting. Often into larger sub sections. I would rather have a fiddly painting job than risk glue damage. Each to their own however.

[pjgtech]

Bet you're pleased with that. Enjoyed the process and learned a lot as well.
The whole issue of when in the building you need to paint is quite an issue. Personally I rarely paint on the sprue for two reasons. Firstly, as you found, the paint is removed when the joint nib is cleaned up. Secondly I like to dry fit parts before glueing and again any fit adjustments take off paint. I try to build up as much as I can before painting. Often into larger sub sections. I would rather have a fiddly painting job than risk glue damage. Each to their own however.

Yep, think building each mini sub section, then painting in sections, etc is the way to go, Cheers

[HAWKERHUNTER]

I think you will find that most builders will follow Jims method. Glue as many parts together first before painting. This gives you the opportunity to correct any fit issues by the use of fillers and sanding etc. It involves a really close examination of the instructions first so you can decide what you can fit together. Through experience you will also start to learn that you can deviate from the instructions at times to get a better finish.
Also choice of glues is important. One glue doesn't do all. For very small plastic pieces dont use the normal plastic cement as this will melt the plastic and may ruin the part. CA (super glues) are good for this and usually cause less damage on already painted parts. Keep superglue and plastic cement glue away from clear parts, windscreens, canopies etc, they will fog them up. Use a good PVA glue like Kristal Klear for those jobs. Great effort on the jeep, you look to be really enjoying the hobby.

[pjgtech]

Hmm, made a balls up!
After applying the transfers to the jeep, I stupidly applied MATT varnish, (should have applied GLOSS) then applied the washes, etc and wondered why it look a bit weird? eg: too shiny?
Can I just reapply gloss varnish and then weather again, or will I need to strip the old weathering and matt varnish off, is this even possible?
Its a constant learning process....

[minitnkr]

I would just add more flat, in my scale, once washes etc. cured.