I think this is the camo scheme I'm gonna go for?
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Looking really good Peter. I'm a brush painter so looking forward to seeing this one go forward.
I also wish I had your motivation. Your output in the last few months is impressive. I'm going through a bit of a very unproductive modelling spell at the moment so keeping an eye on other modellers is wetting my appetite.
MikeComment
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Update for today.....
Added the rifles to the inside of the chassis top.
Added a machine gun, fuel can and storage box to the inside of the lower chassis.
Added few other little bits, rails, window/hatch hinges, etc.
Touched up the paint in a few areas.
Dry fitted the two chassis halves, seemed to fit ok.
Then went for the big move, actually glueing the two halves of the chassis together. [Gulp!]
First use of my new mini clamps, which seemed to do the job well.
Will leave it for a while now, let it set, I've mainly glued and clamped the rear, then will move the clamps towards the front and glue that section.
Starting to look like a half track now..... ?Comment
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Todays progress so far....
I did do a little "grime" wash before putting the top half of the chassis on, may touch this up a bit later, but just wanted that "lived in" look.
Did make a start on dirtying /weathering the tyres and tracks....
Put the rear doors on....
And added the track wheel assembly, (are these called "Bogeys"?)
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Todays update.
Ok, brace yourselves, Lol.....
I started with the camo scheme, I wanted a sort of hand painted mottled look, as if the crew had painted it on themselves.
But I could not find a suitable sponge to "dab" on as I initially wanted to do.
First try with a sponge, experimenting on cardboard, and even though I cut the sponge as small as I dare, it was giving a pattern that was still too large.
So, I decided to find one of the oldest brushes, a bit battered, and cut it right down, so only about 3-4mm of bristles were still showing, and with this I could sort of get a mottled effect.
First result was a bit severe and over the top, needs toning down!
Left it till this morning to have a think.....
So the second attempt/ coat was better, putting more Sand colour on top of the first camo coat to tone it down a bit.
But not sure of it still looks too "busy"?
Have also now put the external tools on and a couple of rolls, storage bags.
NB: this is not yet glossed or weathered or with its final matt coat, so hopefully they will all help it tone it down a bit too.
Also I have now prepped the track wheels and added the front wheels (not yet weathered)....
Had a bit of an issue with the glass to the front lights. I stuck the (clear) lens into the lights using the "Krystal" glue, that you use for windows, canopies, etc. But it would not set clear, just stayed white! So I have made the executive decision to just paint over with silver/metallic paint, (still needs tidying up).
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Leave the headlights....takes ages togo off and go clear.....be patient young padawan ?
The thing with german camo is theres not really a right or wrong way to do it (cept for the ambush camo but dont go there lol)......cos all vehicles were in dark yellow....in the field they were given cans of paste if green and red brown... it was soluble in water or petrol...and was applied with whatever.. spray guns to brushes to sweeping brushes to rags....and however they wanted.....no defined scheme....cept for the afore mentioned ambush scheme (but dont go there ?) ....So no one can tell you its right or wrong
Get a wash on there then a good dose of matt.....and some weathering if you are going that far....and it will look grand ?Per Ardua
We'll ride the spiral to the end and may just go where no ones beenComment
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Well done with the camo. That Krystal Klear glue does take a while to fully dry clear, especially if the weather is cold and damp.Comment
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Was in a nice warm room, and I've used it before on model windows, (eg, my Torpedo boat build) etc and it cleared quite fast (about an hour). I did use a bit more on the light lens's, but after several hours it was not clearing at all. Too late now anyway as I've already painted over with silver/metallic, Doh!
Wait, wait? I ain't got time to be patient! Lol
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Last night I put the track wheels on and left them to set.
This morning I put the main track drive wheels on, but one decided it did not want to stick!
So I managed to clamp it (gently) with one of my new 100mm mini clamps.
Really liking these little clamps, they have been used quite a lot since I got them only a few days ago!
I also managed to thread the track around the wheels, so the join will be on the bottom and in the middle, this gives me a bit of "wiggle" room.
As per my other post, re: which glue to use on "rubber" tracks, I am still undecideds on how to join the tracks so far.
The instructions just indicate "normal" glue, and even have a little symbol for the Revell Contact adhesive bottle, as it has a distinctive shape.
One of the tracks is a bit longer than the other, I may be able to snip a slither off and then try a test glue and see what happens.
Will leave now for few hours to set before carrying on further.
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Well, see my other thread on what glue to use for "rubber" tracks, see linky....
I have just now received a reply from Revell Customer Services, and they say to use the normal Revell Contact cement, so the tracks are presumably not rubber. That was a fast response from Revell too, I only contacted them via their website late last night!
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Have now glued one of the tracks, using the Revell contact cement as advised by Revell customer service, but its slow going, does not set fast at all!
Had to weight the track down to get it to stay in place, as it just wanted to move the whole time being so soft and flexible. But after leaving for couple of hours it does seem to have set ok.
Next problem is that one of the tracks is a tad longer than the other one, and the shorter one is not long enough to go all the way round, its exactly one link too short!
But, the other track (the longer one) is almost exactly one link too long!
So can you see what I might do here?
After double and triple (and maybe even quadriple checking) if I have enough "spare", then I will snip a bit off the long one and try to use that to bridge the shorter one, but what a faff!
It was all going so well too.....Comment
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So I have been doing a bit more track setting and the previously set tracks have now started to come off again, (even with very gentle handling)!
So I have tried again, but now with super glue, (CA) and the tracks stuck almost immediately, so I will now leave it for few hours and check again in the morning. [Sigh]Comment
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Todays update...
The CA glue seems to have held the tracks on ok, so result!
One side of the tracks is now done, this was the longer track, and I did manage to snip off one link, which I think will fill the hole on the other side where that track is one link too short!
I have put in some little spacers to the top of the track to try to get some track sag, seems to be working but only very subtle.
I have also put on the transfers and also done a light panel wash and a light track rust wash.
A couple of the top chassis bits came off while messing with the tracks, so they will have to be glued back on at the end, eg: side radio, top machine gun, the front gun mount, etc.
Once I sort the other track out I will do a final "grime/dirt" wash and then that will probably be it, and then the final matt finish.
The end is in sight.....some pics...
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Last update today.
Sorted the tracks out, sort of. If you look very close, you can see the join, but for me and my non pro modelling, it'll do.....
Glued the little bits back on, gave it a final wash to dirty it up a bit.
Some photos, the wash is still wet in places not fully dry yet.
Last thing to do tomorrow will be its final matt coat.
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Final update on this one. Really enjoyed this build, (apart from probs with the tracks!)
Turned out ok I think, I'm getting more consistent with my slight and light weathering and have a nice procedure that I follow.
Let it sit overnight then applied a final matt varnish coat.
I was initially worried that the camo scheme was too blotchy and too bright, but the washes and matt coat have toned it down a fair bit, so overall I'm happy with it. But still lots more to learn.
Final pics for this one now....
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You've every reason to be proud of that. Most camo schemes tone down nicely with weathering washes and filters. Yours looks good.Comment
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