Rubber Cement/ Glue for individual track links?

[Guest]

Hi group,


wasn`t sure where to post this, but here goes...


just acquired a couple of kits which i`m keen to get started on, but upon opening, i was `horrified`


to find the track links are individual plastic ones, which i need to put together, - a daunting task.


(kits are: 1/35 tamiya Panzer Kampfwagen Aus IV, and a Maquette British Valentine XI - 1/35)


Did a little bit of research on youtube, and some modellers seem to use, `rubber cement`, it looks like it works, looking at the videos, but can anyone recommend a particular brand? and an outlet as to where to buy it from, if anyone can help, i`d be much appreciated.


regards to the forum,


ian

[Guest]

Ian, normal styrene cement is perfectly fine - you don't need to buy any special stuff. Personally I don't think a cement made for rubber would work on hard plastic anyway!


Individual track links can seem off-putting at first, but there's a simple way to do them.


Get some bog standard masking tape & lay out a good length sticky side up, securing it at either end with more tape.


Place the links along the tape until you have a run - the length is entirely up to you. I like sufficient to go across the top & around the drive/idler wheels.


Add a liquid cement like Tamiya Extra Thin to each joining link. Something like Revell Contacta is fine too. This method is quick & means each link has much the same time to go off slightly before bending the run.


See how I've done that with some Dragon Magic Tracks






Leave the cement to go off for 30 minutes or so & then drape the tracks over the tank wheels, adding sag as desired. Leave to cure fully for at least 12 hours - an important step or you might find the links separate when applying washes if they're oil based.


As you can see below, keeping the masking tape on helps






Even after the cement has cured, there's still enough give to remove them from the wheels for painting. Or don't glue the wheels on until everything is ready to go.


Hopefully this will help, but shout if you've any other questions


Cheers


Patrick

[Guest]

Ian, normal styrene cement is perfectly fine - you don't need to buy any special stuff. Personally I don't think a cement made for rubber would work on hard plastic anyway!
Individual track links can seem off-putting at first, but there's a simple way to do them.


Get some bog standard masking tape & lay out a good length sticky side up, securing it at either end with more tape.


Place the links along the tape until you have a run - the length is entirely up to you. I like sufficient to go across the top & around the drive/idler wheels.


Add a liquid cement like Tamiya Extra Thin to each joining link. Something like Revell Contacta is fine too. This method is quick & means each link has much the same time to go off slightly before bending the run.


See how I've done that with some Dragon Magic Tracks


[ATTACH]152385[/ATTACH]


Leave the cement to go off for 30 minutes or so & then drape the tracks over the tank wheels, adding sag as desired. Leave to cure fully for at least 12 hours - an important step or you might find the links separate when applying washes if they're oil based.


As you can see below, keeping the masking tape on helps


[ATTACH]152386[/ATTACH]


Even after the cement has cured, there's still enough give to remove them from the wheels for painting. Or don't glue the wheels on until everything is ready to go.


Hopefully this will help, but shout if you've any other questions


Cheers


Patrick

Explained absolutely perfectly Patrick.


I will certainly trying this technique .

[Guest]

ok, thanks a lot Patrick, great tips, and i think i will try this method when i get to it. my only conern is the glue setting too quickly to get around the ends


of the wheels. I guess more glue could be added to loosen them, as you `mould` them around the wheels.


some good ideas there, so thanks for that.


ian

[Guest]

I have heard of PVA being used to give a slightly flexible hold while fitting the tracks but then liquid cement run in the joins after they are on the tank. However, Patrick has described very well how it is easily done, they stay fairly flexible for longer than you may think. Vital stage is to mould around the idler and sprocket as soon as they have dried enough not to fall apart. But don't be surprised if they do come apart on the odd occasion. As always, don't panic to re glue the break give it a few minutes and carry on.


I find the best glue for this is the slightly thicker ones like Revell Contacta or precision or, as I use Tamiya White Cap, they usually come with a long metal needle like spout other than Tamiya which has a built in brush. As it is thicker, you get the grip but it stays flexible that little bit longer than the thin liquid poly types such as Tamiya Extra Thin.

[Guest]

That's why it's vital to keep the masking tape on while bending the tracks Graham. It keeps the run together & adds support.


Maybe the next time someone builds an individual track set, they could make it into a 'how-to' and post it as a tutorial?