Nice work on the tools Simon. Was the saw too small for the 3D printer?
SimonT - 1/35 SU-122
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Hi Wouter - I do have a bit of a thing for T34 based vehicles. The stash is holding Miniart SU-122 and SU-85 and a Dragon SU-85m, Tamiya, Zvezda and Academy T34/85's, a T34/122 by Ryefield(?I think), Dragon T34/76, Zvezda and Italeri boxed SU-100, another Tamiya T34/76, SU-85, SU-122 all 35th, then Tamiya 1:25 SU-100, and 1:72 T34/85's by Dragon and Revell and 1:16 T34/85's by Trumpeter and Hobbyboss. Plenty to go at :rolling:
Back to this......
the last major part to add was this pair of rods. Have been unable to find a clear reference photo of them - vehicles are either taken from the other side or where they can be seen the pictures are too small and fuzzy
I have therefore made a guess that they are barrel cleaning rods......
....and replaced them with 1mm brass rod, textured with saw blade, Duro ends, pewter and plastic fixings
If anyone knows whether my assumption is correct or not please shout up as paint is not far away
Just four tie downs to add and the track links to assemble then it will be paint timeComment
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morning all - having trouble with my wifi so posting is a bit of a problem
Have had to create my own hotspot on the phone and tether it to the laptop to be able to write this
called the build done on Saturday
the hull was cleaned down with lighter fluid and cotton buds - there was a lot of sanding dust and general dust as it had been sat for a long time with no progress
the hull was then given a coat of Halfords white primer but the wheels are still to do
they need the axle holes drilling out a bit more as the fit is over tight
the Masterclub tracks are giving me some grief
normally I like their tracks and have used quite a few in the past but the pins on these are really annoying to use
I have lost at least ten to the carpet and only managed to add four track links in a few hours
the pin ends are not well defined - usually there is a nicely moulded end dome or whatever but on these they are just a slightly tapered rod without a proper end
if you get them in the wrong way around, which is easily done, then they jam part way into the hole
they will take a while to complete at the current rateComment
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Simon. Progress is looking good so far. I’ve been like you all weekend sitting in my recliner after my chores in the morning building models lolComment
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Nice update Mr T. I'm finding that with these click into place tracks, primeing them followed by a base coat and two coats of varnish makes them a lot easier to use during test fitting.Comment
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Wonderful work..really liked the tree saw. I once Scratch built one from the jagged edge of a plastic knife... then sanded the whole saw down so that it was nice and thin..teeth were hidden in the rack mostly but it gave the appearance of a tree saw.. keep up the fantastic workComment
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Steve - they are pin together not click type
Joe - good idea to remember for possible future use :thumb2: although I don't currently have any plastic knives. I do have some forks in the cupboard but don't think they will work as well:smiling3:
Morning John - I won't be getting any more of their T34 tracks. The Sturmtiger ones were fine but they have a different pin shape
Rather use Miniart T34 tracks as I can just stick them all together then to the wheels to make removable wheel/track combo - detail is good and they are half the price of Friul/Masterclub. Plastic is a bit soft as usual with Miniart
I may have a solution for these ones though - 0.5mm plastic rod
Push in then cut off. Done a couple of trial fits and it is much easier than their little pins as you have a long rod to hold on to so don't need to use tweezersComment
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As I was about to start throwing paint around on Saturday I realised that I had missed an engine deck handle and the centre caps for both idler wheels
made up a pair of centre caps from plastic card and hex rod
used my new doming block to make the domed bearing caps - worked quite well
Sunday morning I gave the whole thing a coat of Ammo One`Shot black and followed it a few hours later with 4B0 and the light version from the modulation set
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