Shenanigans 7: Tamiya Protze. Ancient and Modern...

[Guest]

Steven - Welcome aboard.

Pete - Ditto!

John - I'm using Loctite Gel for everything these days. It's very controlable, doesn't run everywhere and even gives a few second 'play'. If you do make mistakes the parts usually ping apart fairly easily.

Simon - Yes, I was looking at the sprues last night and realised that the two extra figures and equipment sprues were newer that the rest - the driver figure is terrible. Still, it shows how far Tamiya had come in the six years between the PzKpfw II and this. I remember the late 1970s as being a bit of a boom time for Tamiya - lots of great new and improved kits coming out.

[SteveH]

Morning Peter

Great start, as expected, 1/2 the build completed by the time I look up your next episode.

You could always try the 3 colour camo of the interbellum for Wehrmacht vehicles, as a change of pace?

You have already built the 232 6 rad a few years ago.

All 6 wheels on the deck at once, another model building success, you are getting the hang of this building lark. LOL

There are plenty of unusual colour schemes for the German inter war vehicles before the grey/brown and Panzer Grey schemes came in.

Have a good day building

Regards

Steve H

[Guest]

Hi Steve - This one is definitely slower.

Thanks for the camo reference. I did come across all sorts of weird and wonderful schemes, once I started researching it, but as I've never done one on a vehicle before I wanted something simple.

The basic build is done, less the tools and a few delicate parts:

[ATTACH alt="331286"]331286[/ATTACH][ATTACH alt="331287"]331287[/ATTACH][ATTACH alt="331288"]331288[/ATTACH]

This one nearly didn't make it. The bonnet sub-assembly was pretty straightforward and it settled onto the chassis very nicely. The truck bed was a bit trickier due to some slight warping of parts, but I also got that made in the end. The problems came when I tried to fit it onto the chassis and found that the chassis was also warped. The location lug would not meet the pin in one crucial area so that the whole superstructure was lopsided. The only solution was to remove some of the wheels, remove the offending locating pin and add packing to form a tightly bonded joint. Much swearing accompanied the process, but with further packing in other areas I got the whole thing aligned. Isn't this meant to be fun?

Anyway it's had it's basic coat of paint, ready for the next stage. I've attempted a dunkelgrau/dunkelbraun camo scheme, which will be considerably softened by the weathering (I hope).

[minitnkr]

Apparently solutions to quality issues are supposed to be part of the fun:smiling2:. PaulE

[Guest]

Hi Paul. I suppose they are - if they work out!

[JR]

Well it seems to have worked alright Peter, and certainly looks good .
John .

[SteveH]

Morning Peter

Well done in completing your warping and fit issues successfully.

If the build is your primary part of the hobby, then Yes to getting it fixed, if its painting, then NO!

The weathering will certainly change the original colour and patterns, which is all part of hobby the too.

As for speed, you are still at Warp speed, even with your set back.

Perhaps with your next armour project, you could add one new process, to get a feel for all the new fangled "stuff"?

Modulation, pigments, OPR, SODA?

I would leave PE and soldering alone for another day, as it is a Dark Art all of its own!

Looks like its going to be good day to weather the Protze, then figures?

Enjoy the cooler weekend

Regards

Steve H

[Guest]

John - Cheers. I do have that sense of achievement.

Steve - Morning. I'm not sure that new techniques will slow me down - translation please: OPR, SODA?

I'm quite keen to get back to some busts and 120mm figures, so this may be my last armour build for a while,

[SteveH]

Hi

Michael Rinaldi's Oil Paint Render, which could be Small Oil Dot Application.

Using oil paint blobbed onto to a cardboard palette to leach out as much linseed oil as possible

Then to ""repaint" all the surfaces and do all the effects in one go, shading, washes, streaks, chips, rust etc etc etc

HTH's Peter?

Stick to what you enjoy before it gets too silly, as it can at times with the ""critiques" and rivet counters, as on other sites, not here, thankfully!

Have a good day

Steve H

[Guest]

Steve - Thanks for clearing that one up (also had to look up HTH!).

The main part of the vehicle is finished:

[ATTACH alt="331382"]331382[/ATTACH][ATTACH alt="331383"]331383[/ATTACH][ATTACH alt="331385"]331385[/ATTACH]

I found weathering this one pretty difficult, mainly because it is so delicate - I had to support the wheels while painting them for example.

A lot of the usual dry-brushing and more washes than I would have done normally, but I've wrestled it to a state where I'm now going to leave it alone.

Now to go and look for that pesky wing mirror.....

[minitnkr]

Came out great. PaulE

[Guest]

Cheers Paul - big relief!

This is the stowage and two figures made up from the kit parts:

[ATTACH alt="331389"]331389[/ATTACH][ATTACH alt="331390"]331390[/ATTACH]

I thought the kit idea of the thing carrying just about every German infantry weapon of the 2WW was a bit silly (it's just a generic sprue), so I've gone for what might be expected of a panzer regiment vehicle: oil drums, ammo and sacks of spuds, together with the crew's personal equipment. Any tips on adding barbs to the barbed wire?

The officer will be sitting in the front passenger seat and the other figure in the back. The driver will be the Sovereign engineer figure who has got out to remonstrate with the cook, who is blocking the track.

[Guest]

Looking good :smiling3:.

[scottie3158]

Peter,
Superb finish to the paint.

[Guest]

Ralph - Many thanks.

Scottie - I am humbled by your comment, Oh Master.