Dragon M7 Priest

[RM6239]

Si, cheers mate.
Michael, thanks mate.
Paul, trust somebody to notice :anguished:, yes they are glued, I was finishing them up late at night, went to sleep thinking I had done something wrong, tossed and turned for about an hour then it struck me.
Rick, Peter and Paul, almost a band, thanks guys.

It's starting to look like a Priest now.




Some cleaning up to do and a couple of more internal walls to paint.

cheers
Ross

[Guest]

I bet you can still get those stowage boxes off well enough to get them on the right way round, though.

[Wouter]

Nice build you have going on here Ross. And good to see the big gun again, good memories ^^

[Guest]

Ross,
Amodel to be proud off, looking forward to more.
Mike.

[RM6239]

Any suggestions appreciated Jakko? Maybe a thin blade under and slice them off.

Cheers Wouter.

Michael, thanks mate.


cheers
Ross

[JR]

Just caught up Ross, pity about those stowage bins, when I do something like that ( quite often ) I brush some TET along the join and ease it off with a Stanly blade .
Other than that it's looking good .

Hope you get some rain soon .
John .

[RM6239]

Yeah, I tried that John, didn't work had been on too long, I tried again tonight to remove them and it started to rip up the top deck so, I'll just live with them.

cheers
Ross

[Guest]

Any suggestions appreciated Jakko? Maybe a thin blade under and slice them off.

That’s what I was thinking: use a good hobby knife (I don’t think I’d use a surgical scalpel — too fragile) to get into the seam between the upper deck and the stowage box. Be careful to keep your fingers away from where the blade will go if it slips, by the way. I once managed to stab myself through my thumb because I wasn’t careful enough with something like this.

What did you glue them with? If it’s superglue then you can probably get the parts to pop off when the glue breaks, it being hard and somewhat brittle when cured; if you used liquid cement it’ll depend a lot on how much you used, though.

Another option if they won’t budge is to use a modelling saw, which will take off a bit more material. You can replace that with a bit of plastic strip, or you could just leave the boxes slightly lower than they should be, since it’s unlikely to be noticeable.

In any case, having the boxes on the right way is worth the bother, if you ask me. Leaving them like this doesn’t do the build any justice.

[Jim R]

It is looking good Ross. As for the boxes have you tried repeatedly scoring along the join with a new no 11 blade. It may take a long time but slow and steady may work.
Jim

[scottie3158]

Ross,
I agree with Jim's method, I have had to do it myself, it is slow but it does work.

[Steve Jones]

I do hope you manage to rectify the situation. I am with the slowly but steady blade cutting brigade. It is such a great build it would be nice to see it work. Good luck

[Guest]

Ross,
Follow Jims method, the plasic should still be soft enough to allow you to cut the boxes free, but beware of sudden release, the last one finished up 2 inches along my finger..... :loudly-crying:
Mike.

[grumpa]

Nice work so far Ross:thumb2:

Jim

[RM6239]

Well some good news, I got the boxes off and they are now on in the correct orientation. I ended up using a sharp blade and TET then working my way under the boxes until I got enough movement to slice them off, a quick rub with a sanding stick and everything looks ok.

cheers
Ross

[Jim R]

Hi Ross
That is excellent. The model was far too good to leave.
Bet you feel much happier.
Jim