SimonT - Tamiya T34/76

[JR]

I pm'd this to Simon earlier, but thought other might like to see this.

[SimonT]

Thanks Richard - used to make my own brown wash from W&N sepia oil paint. Took an age to dry out. Some of these new enamel potions are called things like ‘wash for German yellow’, ’...for desert sand’ etc etc but they all look pretty much the same shade of brown. Doesn’t really matter though as it just means I can use them on pretty much any vehicle of any colour

Thanks Tim - I decided to keep the lightest colour back for highlighting a page or two back :smiling3:

John - that is a ropey looking T34-85

[Neil Merryweather]

I'm loving this, Simon.

I don't post much because I can't comment with any knowledge .
Still, it looks very like a tank to me!

[SimonT]

Cheers Neil - if it looks like a tank I must be doing something right :thumb2:

[The Smythe Meister]

Hi Simon,
Just had a good old catch up on this one,and it`s looking great!
It was cool before,IMHO,but worth the extra effort as it`s made quite an improvement mate.
Top stuff indeed,
Cheers,
Andy

[Jim R]

Hi Simon
Well even if the washes are all brown this has certainly worked well. Looks very good. Drying time is an issue with oil mixes although a light box can speed things up I find.
Jim

[Mini Me]

Looks the dog's Mr. T. Rick H.

[Steve Jones]

John - that is a ropey looking T34-85

I thought that was one of JR's better builds myself :smiling5:

Nice work with the washes Mr T. Certainly looking the part now.

[SimonT]

Jim - any shade you want as long as it is brown. These enamel washes, filters etc dry much faster than oil paint mixes. Even the oil brushers dry faster than normal artist oils

Rick - thanks

Steve - thanks


Been playing about with this one over the past few days - a few more layers of the green filter then some green oil brusher to try and blend in my dodgy modulation highlights a bit more. I think I am probably being a bit too heavy handed initially with the modulation sets

Last night I cut a template for the turret number - freehand pencilled it on plastic card then carefully cut it out with pointy blade



camera has bumped up the green content

held template against the turret side then stippled through it with a nearly dry brush - just kept going over it until the colour built up then used a fine brush to touch in the top and bottom of the '0' where I had to split it on the stencil

I have a set of etch Russian marking stencils, which I tried first, but I just couldn't keep the things lined up even with masking tape - made a right mess and had to clean it all off


track units have had track primer followed by dark rust, medium rust and light rust washes then a dust pigment/thinner slurry randomly dobbed on

[Mini Me]

The results of the various washes is interesting.........will have to try that on my next tank build. Rick H.

[Steve Jones]

Nice work on the stenciling Mr T. The tracks are looking great as well. Should look the part once added to the hull

[Graeme C.]

All coming together nicely Si, weathering on the tracks looks the part.

[SimonT]

Rick, Steve, Graeme - thanks all

Well, you may not be so happy with it now.......

I have taken my slightly over the top modulation T34 and covered it in some 'washable white camo' paint that I bought a while ago and have been itching to try out

Rather than go through the chipping medium / hairspray process you just paint over it with what is effectively crap paint that doesn't stick very well - the removal process is then the same water, brush etc

The camera has pushed the green - it is more 4BO grey green in reality

I sprayed the top surfaces with an opaque coat but not too heavy

Left it a few minutes then attacked it with warm water and a scotch pad, brush, brass cocktail stick, foam make up applicators

Looking at the bottle of paint afterwards I noticed that it said leave for a day to dry before removing - oops, oh well

[Mini Me]

Why wait a day when you can get results like that in minutes!:thumb2: Rick H.

[Guest]

That looks great!

If it's the AK / MIG stuff, I haven't tried mine yet due to the misleading instructions on the bottle. Asking a few people that have used it, it should be removed / worked quite soon after applying, just like you did, or it sets up too hard to be worked easily.

The "drying for a day" bit is after you've finished playing with it, as it can still be a bit fragile compared to regular acrylics and subsequent work could disturb it. They could make that more clear on the label!