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1/72 Cruiser Tank Mk. VIII Challenger (A30)

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  • Guest

    #1

    1/72 Cruiser Tank Mk. VIII Challenger (A30)

    Some years ago, I wanted to add an A30 Challenger tank to my 1/72 scale British 1944–45 wargaming troops. Since it’s a straightforward vehicle, I decided to convert it rather than seeing if anyone made a model of it.

    First, though, some history to put it into perspective. The British had developed the 17-pounder gun and wanted to mount it into a tank, eventually deciding to base it on the Cruiser Tank Mk. VII Cromwell (A27). Two designs were trialled and put into production: the open-topped Self-Propelled Gun Avenger (A30) and the Cruiser Mk. VIII Challenger (A30). Both used a lengthened Cromwell hull with six roadwheels instead of five, with a completely new turret and other changes. As the designations indicate, the Challenger was intended as a tank while the Avenger was meant to be a tank destroyer in the vein of the American M10 (not “Wolverine”). Challenger went into production in time to be used in Normandy, though only from about August, but Avenger production really only got underway after the war.

    This is Challenger:

    [ATTACH]343292[/ATTACH]

    And this is Avenger:

    [ATTACH]343293[/ATTACH]

    Challenger has a crew of five: commander, gunner, two loaders and driver. It was mainly issued to units equipped with Cromwells, with one Challenger attached to each tank platoon in the same way that a 17-pounder-armed Sherman was attached to Sherman platoons (and, until Challengers became available, to Cromwell platoons as well).

    For my model, I decided to use two Revell Cromwell Mk. IV kits:

    [ATTACH]343283[/ATTACH]

    This is a model I would certainly recommend. It's well-detailed and accurate, with link-and-length tracks (if somewhat fiddly), and inexpensive at something like €13 each (I think I paid). Here’s what you get in the box (aside from decals etc.):

    [ATTACH]343285[/ATTACH]

    Since Challenger had a longer hull thank Cromwell, I needed to lengthen it, which is why I needed two kits. I began by chopping up the hulls:

    [ATTACH]343286[/ATTACH]

    I worked out where to cut by scaling a side-view drawing of the real tank to 1/72 in Adobe Photoshop and using the measuring tool in it so I could work out the distances between the wheels. There was a reason I couldn’t do this more simply by taking the front three stations of one hull and the rear three of another, but I don’t remember what it was I think, but am not sure anymore, that the spacing will be off if you try it that way.

    Next, I cut the outer hull panels (these cover the springs on the real tank) to match, resulting in this set:

    [ATTACH]343288[/ATTACH]

    That done, I combined the hull parts by taking the all the ones with two axles and adding plastic card on the inside:

    [ATTACH]343289[/ATTACH]

    This took a lot of care to get things straight, because I didn’t want a warped hull, but it worked out in the end. Here it is with the wheels and tracks on:

    [ATTACH]343290[/ATTACH]

    These didn’t need any cutting. I just had to take more of the shorter lengths, and perhaps some single links, per side than necessary for Cromwell, and it all fit fine.
  • Guest

    #2
    Challenger’s upper hull is wider and higher between the driver’s compartment and the engine deck than Cromwell’s, and of course it needed to be lengthened as well. So, more cutting up of two sets of parts:

    [ATTACH]343343[/ATTACH]

    After that it was a matter of building the new upper hull from plastic card:

    [ATTACH]343345[/ATTACH]
    [ATTACH]343344[/ATTACH]

    I filled in the driver’s hatches on the front roof and the opening for the machine gun in the glacis plate, sanded it all flat, and scribed a new driver’s hatch. I also transplanted the periscopes, shortened the Cromwell hullside bins to put them on both sides of the driver’s compartment, and built new bins alongside the superstructure from plastic card and strip.

    And from the underside:

    [ATTACH]343346[/ATTACH]

    In retrospect, I realised that I could have saved myself a lot of work. All that’s really needed is to cut both upper hulls somewhere around the turret ring to get them to the new hull length, without removing the centre section. After that, you can just build up the sponsons and put a roof over the whole of it: it’s only something like 1 or 1.5 mm higher than the Cromwell’s roof, or one thickness of plastic card. Oh well

    Comment

    • Jim R
      SMF Supporters
      • Apr 2018
      • 15681
      • Jim
      • Shropshire

      #3
      Hi Jakko
      A most interesting project which you seem to have sorted. A lot of work and a lot of scratching.
      Originally posted by Jakko
      worked out where to cut by scaling a side-view drawing of the real tank to 1/72 in Adobe Photoshop and using the measuring tool in it so I could work out the distances between the wheels.
      That was a clever idea which has worked well.
      Jim

      Comment

      • Steve Jones
        • Apr 2018
        • 6615

        #4
        Front and centre for this one Jakko. I am going to build the Revell kit later this year so looking forward to seeing how it goes. Its going to be a fascinating project.Good luck

        Comment

        • Guest

          #5
          Originally posted by Jim R
          A most interesting project which you seem to have sorted. A lot of work and a lot of scratching.
          Luckily it’s all straightforward, flat shapes you can build with plastic card easily enough. It’s compound curves I’m not too confident with

          Originally posted by Jim R
          That was a clever idea which has worked well.
          I went and found the drawings I used for the model on my hard drive, as I thought it might be useful to post them here.

          [ATTACH]343420[/ATTACH]

          This is a fairly simple overall view, but it has the distance between the front and rear axles on it, which is a great help in working out how to lengthen the model. Looking at it, I also see again why I had to build the lower hull from three pieces: on Cromwell, the third wheel is spaced further from the second and fourth, than the first from the second and the fourth from the fifth. Challenger’s wheel spacing is the same for all, and is equal to the spacing of the first and last sets of wheels on Cromwell.

          [ATTACH]343421[/ATTACH]

          The above is an official diagram of armour thicknesses, and it makes clear what shapes the hull and turret have. This is important because many drawings make mistakes here, especially where the front of the turret is concerned. In fact, the first drawings makes exactly the same mistake, in that they show a diagonal line on the turret when in fact these were all vertical.

          Talking of which, here is the turret as I built it:

          [ATTACH]343425[/ATTACH]
          [ATTACH]343426[/ATTACH]
          [ATTACH]343427[/ATTACH]
          [ATTACH]343428[/ATTACH]

          Unfortunately I didn’t take any in-progress photos, but I began by cutting the top and bottom, for which I printed out the armour thickness diagram at 1/72 scale, then cut out the turret roof and pasted that onto the plastic card so I could simply cut the plastic around it. I think the bottom is 1.5 mm plate and the sides and roof are 1 mm. Inside are some pieces of plastic card to keep everything square.

          The curved plate at the front is 0.75 mm thick, as I recall, in which I first cut out the openings and then curved it, I think around a glass jar. A few millimetres behind it is another piece of plastic plate that I painted black after glueing the gun barrel to it. The bulges for the sight and coaxial machine gun are bits of plastic tube cut to fit, then faired in with putty that I intentionally kept a bit rough because this was a cast piece on the real tank.

          The gun barrel is from a Plastic Soldier Company kit of the Sherman Mk. V, which includes both 75 mm and 17-pounder barrels. It had to be added before the front plate, as the flared out rear of the barrel doesn’t fit through the opening, but the muzzle brake does.

          The commander’s cupola is from the Cromwell kit, cut from the roof part of that and installed in an opening I cut for it into the roof before I glued the turret together. The loader’s hatch is simply scribed with some details from plastic strip, while the periscopes are also from the Revell kit. The rest is scratchbuilt from some plastic card, such as discs made with a punch-and-die set, plus and a bit of copper wire to form the edge around the opening for the 2-inch bomb thrower. (The black at the join between the sloped and flat roof plates is because I had painted it after filling, to see if it needed more work.)

          [ATTACH]343429[/ATTACH]

          The turret rotates on a peg glued to its bottom, which I made from a nicely round piece from a Games Workshop kit part, though I don’t recall what, exactly. Not that it matters: the important thing is that it should be round and a loose fit in the tube I installed in the hull roof.

          Once the turret was complete, all that remained was putting it onto the hull:

          [ATTACH]343430[/ATTACH]
          [ATTACH]343431[/ATTACH]
          [ATTACH]343432[/ATTACH]
          [ATTACH]343433[/ATTACH]
          [ATTACH]343434[/ATTACH]

          Comment

          • Lee Drennen
            SMF Supporters
            • Apr 2018
            • 7711

            #6
            Very impressive Jakko I’ve got to hang around for this one

            Comment

            • Guest

              #7
              Jakko,
              Some really good scratch work there. It is only after you have struggled through the cutting process that you sit there and realise there was a much easier way :confounded:, but impressive just the same.
              Cheers, Mike.

              Comment

              • Guest

                #8
                Cheers

                It’s usually something that’s obvious in hindsight, but when you’re actually building it you just don’t see it, is my experience. On the positive side, doing it the hard way is better for your skills

                Comment

                • Guest

                  #9
                  I put the finished model into a separate thread.

                  Comment

                  • adt70hk
                    SMF Supporters
                    • Sep 2019
                    • 10406

                    #10
                    Jakko

                    Thanks for pointing me in the direction of this.

                    ATB

                    Andrew

                    Comment

                    • Guest

                      #11
                      I have a feeling your Hauler model will be easier and have better detail

                      Comment

                      • Graeme C.
                        SMF Supporters
                        • Apr 2018
                        • 1604
                        • Graeme
                        • UK

                        #12
                        Nice scratch building & kitbashing Jakko, I always like British tanks, the real A30 Challenger always looks a bit cobbled together.

                        Comment

                        • Guest

                          #13
                          Originally posted by Graeme C.
                          Nice scratch building & kitbashing
                          Thanks

                          Originally posted by Graeme C.
                          I always like British tanks, the real A30 Challenger always looks a bit cobbled together.
                          It does, doesn’t it? “The gun won’t fit, so how about we just make a big boxy turret for it? Oh, that needs a bigger hull? Well, let’s just stick the front of one tank to the back of another …”

                          Comment

                          • Si Benson
                            • Apr 2018
                            • 3572

                            #14
                            Well done Jakko :thumb2:

                            Comment

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