Tamiya Pz 111 N Russian front, on a roll chaps
Collapse
This topic is closed.
X
X
-
Guest
-
Guest
Thanks all, really appreciated !!
Good thing is the old ticker is in good nick and pumping fine. Two arteries have narrowing due to calcium. So i was warned its time to do things to control it, on diet, with a reduction in the good but bad grub, bugger. However lost 4 lbs in a week, even got a exercise bike on order, closest to a gym or run i will ever get lol.
Seems nothing to do with my breathlessness and fatique, but glad its been found before a possibly heart attack.
Bob
As for your III, great subject that always seems to be the bridesmaid of the IV. Got the chair reserved as always on you builds.
Cheers, Mike.Comment
-
-
-
Hi Mike, excellent reply!! I have cut out a lot of good but bad things and now lost 7 lbs, so just over 14 stone, on aspirin as well. Seeing the heart chap again tomorrow to see what's next, bugger
Thanks Steve, interested myself lol could go pear shaped
Hi Jim, too bloody right sir! not a lover of heat at the best of time
Scottie how dare you sir, old fart indeed. Count your lucky stars I cannot find my duelling gloves
:tongue-out3:
Comment
-
Afternoon chaps
Started to weather the hull without the superstructure, added heavy mud then pigments on top. Also started on the tracks with primer then a dark brown/red layer, next dust/mud pigments etc
Wheels drying then mud for them as well
Really impressed with what you can do with pigments!!
As its from the Leningrad front might need more darker mud???
Any opinion's, would that be too much??
thanks as always BobAttached FilesComment
-
-
-
-
Guest
Looks great Bob. Do you mind me asking which pigments you used for the mud & dust? With so much choice out there it's hard to know where to start, but the ones you've used look the business.Comment
-
Not a problem Andy, followed the advice from Steve
Using Mig ones but there's a wide choice out there
I start with Mig Heavy earth, its not a pigment but like mud in a jar, enamel but looks very good, applied with a knackered brush and stippled around the suspension etc. leave to dry for a day. Dries with a nice wet look
Then mix up in a jar (I use the cheap plastic shot glasses from a bargain shop) Dry mud, European earth, Dark earth and European dust pigments. If you want to show more recent mud I add more dark earth or for dry mud / dust leave out the heavy earth, in other words mix and match. again apply with a worn out brush.
Make sure the kit is on its side then apply a fixer, if you want to move later just add more fixer and try again.
Hoe this helps??Comment
-
-
Guest
-
Comment