Tamiya 1/16 RC Panther (resumed after a long hiatus)

[tr1ckey66]

Just popped in to see how thngs are going Paul. Nice to see the wet stuff on the model. Congratulations on your competition success's. Richly deserved. Thanks for sharing

Steve

Hi Steve, thanks for dropping by and for the kind words. I should have a major update on this build in a week or so time. I’m hoping to have the lower hull and running gear complete. Once this is done I think things will move pretty rapidly, as the steps beyond that are fairly straight forward. Hopefully the results will be worth the wait.

Many thanks again
Paul

[topgazza]

This is so much fun just to read Paul. Such attention to detail and making sure things work is impressive.

[Guest]

Paul,
Good to see you back on track and the electrics sorted.
Mike.

[tr1ckey66]

Completing the Lower Hull and Running Gear

Hi everyone.
It's been a little while since I last posted but things on the big Panther are progressing. My focus at the moment is on completing the lower hull, wheels and tracks. The reason for this unusual approach to the build is purely practical. Because this model is so big and heavy I really don't want to be man-handling this too much and having to turn this upside down later in the build, certainly not with all the fragile photo etch yet to be added. To illustrate this reason I need only point out another couple of mishaps which needed correcting. First I broke off the towing pintle handle from the rear hull plate and then (more catastrophically) managed to break the rear hull plate!!! Both, I'm happy to report, have been fixed but it just goes to show the sort of difficulties associated with such large (and heavy) models.

Here's the lower hull repair (this will be invisible when the upper hull is matched...


Another thing I've had to plan in advance (Tamiya's build sequence has long since gone out of the window!) is the front glacis plate which I'm adding with plastic card which will have it's Zimmerit coating applied later. The enlarged holes in the hull were necessary to accommodate the new gearboxes but will be invisible under the plastic card front glacis plate...



And so on to painting the hull.
I used the same 3 shades of dunkelgelb to achieve this effect, polishing each subsequent layer to ensure a perfectly smooth finish with no hint of orange-peeling...



At this point I'd like to share a tip with anyone that airbrushes acrylic paints. This simple trick eliminates 95% of all associated airbrush blockages and saves many frustrating hours of airbrush cleaning. Simply cut a piece of metal mesh and make yourself an airbrush strainer. Sounds simple (and it is!) but it is amazing how much this has helped filter out the tiny solid acrylic particles from paint. I always dilute my paint with the appropriate thinners and use this simple device to strain the paint into the mixing container. I then use it again on the airbrush to ensure trouble free airbrushing. Simples!



I'm now skipping ahead a few steps as I forgot to photograph painting the tracks (doh!) Here's a sneak peak at how the whole running gear looks at the moment. Please remember there will be many more layers of weathering and steps to bring the whole model together so this is by no means the finished article...




Oh, whilst I remember, the Mig Productions metal paint (used on the inner road wheels) I found to be ok. It is true that it does tend to keep on rubbing off but then I've found that true of a lot of metallic paints, unless they are thoroughly cured. I found that after a day's hardening the paint was pretty much fixed but I did add a satin varnish over the top to ensure it stayed where it was supposed to be. In truth, I think where this paint comes into it's own is dry-brushing. An example of this can be seen on the tracks as I used this paint to highlight the raised metallic surfaces. Incidentally, my sequence for painting the tracks was as follows:
1. Metal etch Primer
2. Satin Black (shadow layer)
3. Red Brown (in all but the deepest recesses)
4. Mud Brown (sprayed lightly)
5. Standard and light rust pigments (applied in a thinners solution to specific deep areas in the track links)
6. Europe dust and light mud pigments (added dry and sparingly in random areas then brushed away with a soft brush to blend)
7. Uschi Metal pigments (applied with a cloth to give a metallic sheen to raised detail)
8. Finally Mig Metal Paint (Steel) applied sparingly to raised detail and polished.

The only thing to add before I can start completing the lower hull is a little mud. Unfortunately, when I came to open my Mig acrylic medium to create said mud it was solid in the container. One online shop with the forum shop and hopefully I can continue soon. (Thanks John for the speedy dispatch!)

And that's it for now...
This thing is starting to look a bit more tank-like now. I feel that once the running gear is complete things will move on at a pace (not least because I've plenty of time on my Hands at the mo!)

Stay safe everyone

Cheers
Paul

[boatman]

Completing the Lower Hull and Running Gear

Hi everyone.
It's been a little while since I last posted but things on the big Panther are progressing. My focus at the moment is on completing the lower hull, wheels and tracks. The reason for this unusual approach to the build is purely practical. Because this model is so big and heavy I really don't want to be man-handling this too much and having to turn this upside down later in the build, certainly not with all the fragile photo etch yet to be added. To illustrate this reason I need only point out another couple of mishaps which needed correcting. First I broke off the towing pintle handle from the rear hull plate and then (more catastrophically) managed to break the rear hull plate!!! Both, I'm happy to report, have been fixed but it just goes to show the sort of difficulties associated with such large (and heavy) models.

Here's the lower hull repair (this will be invisible when the upper hull is matched...
[ATTACH=CONFIG]n1119316[/ATTACH]

Another thing I've had to plan in advance (Tamiya's build sequence has long since gone out of the window!) is the front glacis plate which I'm adding with plastic card which will have it's Zimmerit coating applied later. The enlarged holes in the hull were necessary to accommodate the new gearboxes but will be invisible under the plastic card front glacis plate...

[ATTACH=CONFIG]n1119321[/ATTACH]

And so on to painting the hull.
I used the same 3 shades of dunkelgelb to achieve this effect, polishing each subsequent layer to ensure a perfectly smooth finish with no hint of orange-peeling...

[ATTACH=CONFIG]n1119332[/ATTACH]

At this point I'd like to share a tip with anyone that airbrushes acrylic paints. This simple trick eliminates 95% of all associated airbrush blockages and saves many frustrating hours of airbrush cleaning. Simply cut a piece of metal mesh and make yourself an airbrush strainer. Sounds simple (and it is!) but it is amazing how much this has helped filter out the tiny solid acrylic particles from paint. I always dilute my paint with the appropriate thinners and use this simple device to strain the paint into the mixing container. I then use it again on the airbrush to ensure trouble free airbrushing. Simples!

[ATTACH=CONFIG]n1119333[/ATTACH]

I'm now skipping ahead a few steps as I forgot to photograph painting the tracks (doh!) Here's a sneak peak at how the whole running gear looks at the moment. Please remember there will be many more layers of weathering and steps to bring the whole model together so this is by no means the finished article...

[ATTACH=CONFIG]n1119334[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]n1119335[/ATTACH]

Oh, whilst I remember, the Mig Productions metal paint (used on the inner road wheels) I found to be ok. It is true that it does tend to keep on rubbing off but then I've found that of a lot of metallic paints do unless they are really cured well. I found that after a day's hardening the paint was pretty much fixed but I did add a satin varnish over the top to ensure it stayed where it was supposed to be. In truth I think where this paint comes into it's own is dry-brushing. An example of this can be seen on the tracks as I used this paint to highlight the raised metallic surfaces. Incidentally, my sequence for painting the tracks were as follows:
1. Metal etch Primer
2. Satin Black (shadow layer)
3. Red Brown (in all but the deepest recesses)
4. Mud Brown (sprayed lightly)
5. Standard and light rust pigments (applied in a thinners solution to specific deep areas in the track links)
6. Europe dust and light mud pigments (added dry and sparingly in random areas then brushed away with a soft brush to blend)
7. Uschi Metal pigments (applied with a cloth to give a metallic sheen to raised detail)
8. Finally Mig Metal Paint (Steel) applied sparingly to raised detail and polished.

The only thing to add before I can start completing the lower hull is a little mud. Unfortunately, when I came to open my Mig acrylic medium to create said mud it was solid in the container. One online shop with the forum shop and hopefully I can continue soon. (Thanks John for the speedy dispatch!)

And that's it for now...
This thing is starting to look a bit more tank-like now. I feel that once the running gear is complete things will move on at a pace (not least because I've plenty of time on my Hands at the mo!)

Stay safe everyone

Cheers
Paul

HI Paul she looks great with the wheels an tracks on awesome she is are the tracks plastic or metal ? as when those heavy duty motors start pullin those tracks there is goin to be a lot of stress on the tracks I think brilliant build lookin forward to more
chris

[tr1ckey66]

HI Paul she looks great with the wheels an tracks on awesome she is are the tracks plastic or metal ? as when those heavy duty motors start pullin those tracks there is goin to be a lot of stress on the tracks I think brilliant build lookin forward to more
chris

Hi Chris
The tracks are metal. The whole thing is quite a weight now akin to holding a car battery, hence my eagerness to finish the lower hull. :smiling:
Cheers
P

[boatman]

Hi Chris
The tracks are metal. The whole thing is quite a weight now akin to holding a car battery, hence my eagerness to finish the lower hull. :smiling:
Cheers
P

one word paul FAB U LAS
chris

[tr1ckey66]

The lower hull is finally finished. Yay!...

After a considerable push the lower hull is finally complete. The model now stands on it's own tracks and is able to trundle around accompanied by the sounds of the awesome Maybach engine. This called for a quick test of all the functions. I took the Panther on a quick tour of the kitchen and... all is well, phew!



'Ello, ello. What's all this then...'
Couldn't resist a shot with my 120mm British Infantryman.



I mentioned, briefly in a previous post, that I would relocate the on/off switch. This is where the switch is located now...



And finally, yet more mishaps...



The towing pintle handle has broken off again (indicated centre). And just now I discovered that the left rear hull hook has broken off. This illustrates just why I've been so desperate to finish the lower hull, as man-handling this beast inevitably leads to breakages. Now that the model rests on its own tracks, and there is no need now to turn this thing over, I can breath a sigh of relief. The 2 breakages mentioned above are just another couple of hitches to overcome and (to be honest) are the least of my concerns about the build.

Hope you like the progress so far
Cheers
Paul

[Steven000]

Very nice work so far Paul, lovely model! :thumb2:
Steven

[tr1ckey66]

Very nice work so far Paul, lovely model! :thumb2:
Steven

Cheers Steven. It’s getting there. I feel i’ve turned a corner with the build now, I can breathe a bit easier.
Thanks for the support.
Paul

[boatman]

YEA Paul that's he problem with big heavy models is breakages through handleling an I must admit that I will have this problem too on my tiger but well if it happen just get out the glue an most important of all enjoy your build as we cant do much eles for the forceable futerure an great work by the way love your camo paint work
:thumb2:
chris

[tr1ckey66]

YEA Paul that's he problem with big heavy models is breakages through handleling an I must admit that I will have this problem too on my tiger but well if it happen just get out the glue an most important of all enjoy your build as we cant do much eles for the forceable futerure an great work by the way love your camo paint work
:thumb2:
chris

Cheers Chris.
I’m going to be doing a bit more Zimm application today (turret and possibly revisit Zimm on parts of the hull). Any update on Tiger?
Cheers
Paul

[tr1ckey66]

Zimmerit Finished!... Well, almost.
After a really determined push I finally finished the Zimmerit for the turret and mantlet. This almost completes the Zimm for the whole tank (there's just the lower-front hull to do) and means I can start the mechanisms for the turret.



I also had a quick look at the positioning of the turret numbers. I sprayed these with primer through a rough paper mask, just to see how they would look. I'm relatively happy With the result. It should be noted that this stencil includes both inner (red) and outline (white) and therefore appear thicker. Some minor tweaks will be necessary, but won't be too difficult to alter in 'Illustrator', before cutting the masks on my plotter.

The rear of the turret...


Finally
I've ringed the patch of Zimmerit missing from Panther 135 which can be seen in the wartime shot below. Also ringed is the repaired hull hook (which you may remember I snapped off a little while ago).




Tomorrow I'm hoping to finish the turret mechanisms then it's on with adding all that photo etch and finishing up!

Cheers
Paul

[Steve Jones]

Just popped in to have a quick update on how its going Paul. The zim has turned out really well. A fantastic build all round.

[BattleshipBob]

Very nice Paul, hows the house extension coming on lol, you might need one soon

Will read this thread from the start :thumb2: