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Mick,
Cracking work mate.Comment
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Hi Mike
As Mick says the paint job is great and really shows all that added detail.
JimComment
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Can't believe I have missed all this wonderful work. It was an absolute joy to read through and see all your extra detailing. Good luck with the wet stuffComment
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Scottie,
Jim R,
Steve Jones.
Many thanks to you all for your comments, always welcome.
Steve, Sotty you looked so peacfull sleeping, just did not have the heart to wake you :relieved:zzzzzzzzzzzzzz
Mike.Comment
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Update,
Gave the whole thing a wash in thinned down W&N Burnt Umber oil paint, then spent a couple of hours assembling the Bronco working track links with no problems. And finished off the assembly of the tow rope/cable.
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That is a dressmakers pin, not a 12inch spike...
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And the other end, they do close and open....
The tracks and cable are now in track primer ready for paining tomorrow.
Cheers,
Mike.Comment
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Incredible!
PeteComment
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Hi Mike, I'm utterly amazed how you guys can pay the full price of a kit and use sometimes only less than half of it then spend more than double the kit price for AM replacements :astonished: ...:tears-of-joy::tears-of-joy::tears-of-joy: just kidding. The results prove it's all worth it. Already it's looking good and it's not even finished yet. :thumb2:
I've been under the radar and just picked this up and what a nice read...pushing through the crowd and lookin at how you do your tracks.
Cheers,
RichardComment
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Hi Richard,
Many thanks for the compliments. The tracks are just the Bronco set for the Comet, sprayed with Mig track primer and then sprays of different rust shades, a dirt wash and then dry brushed with aluminium rather than silver... I will do some pics to show the process.
Mike.Comment
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Careful Mike, The Guardian will think you're being racist!
Pete :smiling5:Comment
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Update.
OK, rtfoe (Richard) wanted to see how the tracks were painted, So I have put together a quick tutorial and posted it here first, and if the mod would be kind enough to move it to the correct section a bit later, many thanks.
So, "Track painting for those who have nothing better to do with their time..."
I started of with priming the track with Mig Track Primer A.MIG-2007 and after giving it the 24 hour dry time I started the weathering.
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Track and tow cable primed and ready.
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After giving the tracks and cable a reandom spray with the Dark Rust Deposits, which is an enamel based item (Beware of fumes) I then forgot to photo it. But then did the same with the mediun and light. Again no real pattern to the spraying, I sort of went down the length in a 'Z' wave....
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Here you can see the effect and the colours denotes where a stop and start was.
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Masking, such a joy... When the wheels of a tank run along the track it leaves a portion of the track in natural metal, where the wheels have a tendancy to move across the track rubs away at the guide horns in the centre of the track. And where the wheels do not touch the guide horns and where they meet the track shoe there always appears to be a line of the original coating left.
So first the outsides were covered up to the outside holes where the sprocket teeth go, this is the wide tape running lengthways. Then next to the teeth and on each side of them a 1mm wide strip (white tape) just visible top and bottom of the central line. This central line of tape was run along the top of the teeth, again where no wear occurs...
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The track was then given light coats of metal paint, in this case Duraluminum 77.702 from Vallejo...
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The valleho paint dries really fast, so after replenishing the tea mug, I used a cut down old flat paint brush and brushed lengthways down the track with Mig Gun Metal pigments. Once done I blew off the residue and removed the tape carefully - it has a tendancy to stick to the track which was the original idea but it appears it now waits untill you want to remove it...
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And this is what you are left with on the inner face of the track, complete with the ejector pin marks that were missed during the clean up process...
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Turning the track over it was time to dry brush the outside face of the tracks.
Again a flat brush was dipped into some Model Master Aluminum and the brush was then stroked across some card to remove the excess. This was then brushed across the track and not lengthways. This is so that the detail in the recesses can be picked up. Once both lengths had been dry brushed and allowed a few minuted to dry, I then opened the jar of Model master 'Chrome Silver', again the brush was dipped in and the excess brushed off on the card. This was then dry brushes along the length of the track so that the leading edges of the track picked up the Chrome only.
And that is basically all I do, timewise take as long as you wish, this took me about three hours this afternoon.
Mike.Comment
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Update.
The tow cable received the same process of the tracks except for the masking and dry brushing. Once the original rust colours had been sprayed on the whole cable was then given a light brush with gun metal pigments, and I stress a light brushing.
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Cheers,
Mike.Comment
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